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Architecture and Design - Building design/construction and related topics.
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Posted by ++ on August 22, 2007, 5:07 pm
Bob Morrison wrote:
>In a previous post EDS wrote...
>
>
>>3,000# Concrete is not watertight. 4,000# is much more watertight, but all
>>joints must be designed to include waterstops (6" wide ribbed vinyl or
>>rubber sheets) that must be lapped and heatsealed at the laps. An
>>interesting concrete system is Royal Building Systems from Canada, with pvc
>>forms that remain in place and form an impervious surface on both sides.
>>system is set up by sliding the plastic units together and installing rebar
>>as you go. I have a large carwash, detailing, and lube building going up
>>this summer.
>>If your building is not heavy enough to stay put during flooding, a thicker
>>slab will hold it down. I've seen up to 11' thick slabs, and commonly are 3'
>>in areas with high water tables. Underground fuel tanks usually have to have
>>a slab to hold them down.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Better yet is to use an integral waterproofer put in the mix. However,
>any openings (windows and doors) will render the waterproof concrete moot.
>
>It is simply not possible to build a waterproof house unless you design it
>as a boat that will float when the water gets too high. This is the only
>idea I've seen recently that has any merit.
>
>
Plenty of historic examples. For example, Baltimore has numerous four
level brick 19th c. rowhouses on floating foundations that have led to
interesting settlement issues
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Posted by Edgar on August 22, 2007, 5:16 pm
> In a previous post EDS wrote...
>> 3,000# Concrete is not watertight. 4,000# is much more watertight, but
>> all
>> joints must be designed to include waterstops (6" wide ribbed vinyl or
>> rubber sheets) that must be lapped and heatsealed at the laps. An
>> interesting concrete system is Royal Building Systems from Canada, with
>> pvc
>> forms that remain in place and form an impervious surface on both sides.
>> system is set up by sliding the plastic units together and installing
>> rebar
>> as you go. I have a large carwash, detailing, and lube building going up
>> this summer.
>> If your building is not heavy enough to stay put during flooding, a
>> thicker
>> slab will hold it down. I've seen up to 11' thick slabs, and commonly are
>> 3'
>> in areas with high water tables. Underground fuel tanks usually have to
>> have
>> a slab to hold them down.
>>
>
> Better yet is to use an integral waterproofer put in the mix. However,
> any openings (windows and doors) will render the waterproof concrete moot.
>
> It is simply not possible to build a waterproof house unless you design it
> as a boat that will float when the water gets too high. This is the only
> idea I've seen recently that has any merit.
>
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
I've always wondered about a house on pylons that are attached in such a way
as to be able to ride up and down on them. Then you just design the house
like a boat that will rise and fall with the flood. Would the pylons that
are pushed down deep enough survive a flood? Since the house is not
actually being supported on the pylons directly, what would the foundation
be? Then you have all the plumbing and electrical stuff to deal with.
Maybe if they are designed with break away points at certain places near the
ground so when it lifts, everything breaks off cleanly at a place that is
expected and could be repaired. I thought it would be an interesting study.
--
Edgar
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
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Posted by Kris Krieger on August 30, 2007, 12:31 am
> In a previous post EDS wrote...
>> 3,000# Concrete is not watertight. 4,000# is much more watertight,
>> but all joints must be designed to include waterstops (6" wide ribbed
>> vinyl or rubber sheets) that must be lapped and heatsealed at the
>> laps. An interesting concrete system is Royal Building Systems from
>> Canada, with pvc forms that remain in place and form an impervious
>> surface on both sides. system is set up by sliding the plastic units
>> together and installing rebar as you go. I have a large carwash,
>> detailing, and lube building going up this summer.
>> If your building is not heavy enough to stay put during flooding, a
>> thicker slab will hold it down. I've seen up to 11' thick slabs, and
>> commonly are 3' in areas with high water tables. Underground fuel
>> tanks usually have to have a slab to hold them down.
>>
>
> Better yet is to use an integral waterproofer put in the mix.
> However, any openings (windows and doors) will render the waterproof
> concrete moot.
>
> It is simply not possible to build a waterproof house unless you
> design it as a boat that will float when the water gets too high.
> This is the only idea I've seen recently that has any merit.
>
Isn't there a small neighborhood in the Netherlands that is doing that,
building houses that will float in a flood? I saw something on one of
those TV specials that mentioned this. I thought it was an interesting
idea.
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Posted by Bob Morrison on August 22, 2007, 1:54 pm
In a previous post Kris Krieger wrote...
> What I'm wonderin is whether it's possible to pour walls and foundation to
> be one unit, or even, if the foundation could be poured such tat it would
> come partway up and the framing would go inside of it, and then the
> exterior sheathing etc. would go on top or perhaps even over it...?
>
> Just how water-tight could a place be made?
>
Damn near impossible to make a building watertight as long as it has
windows and doors.
FEMA has published a couple of pamphlets on "waterproof" design, but they
are a joke. (as you might expect from FEMA).
You can make a building "Flood-resistant", but it would not be a house I
would care to live in. The only real answer is build above the flood
plain.
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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Posted by ++ on August 22, 2007, 5:18 pm
Bob Morrison wrote:
>In a previous post Kris Krieger wrote...
>
>
>>What I'm wonderin is whether it's possible to pour walls and foundation to
>>be one unit, or even, if the foundation could be poured such tat it would
>>come partway up and the framing would go inside of it, and then the
>>exterior sheathing etc. would go on top or perhaps even over it...?
>>
>>Just how water-tight could a place be made?
>>
>>
>>
>
>Damn near impossible to make a building watertight as long as it has
>windows and doors.
>
>FEMA has published a couple of pamphlets on "waterproof" design, but they
>are a joke. (as you might expect from FEMA).
>
>You can make a building "Flood-resistant", but it would not be a house I
>would care to live in. The only real answer is build above the flood
>plain.
>
>
Heh, spent a little bit of time recently at a flood plain conference.
Some of the T shirtswere amusing:
"Drove my Chevy to the Levee and the Levee was Gone"
I can't remember how it was worded but there was one saying, essentially
that you wouldn't build yur house on the median strip of a highway so
why build on a flood plain?
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Page 2 of 3 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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