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Posted by RicodJour on September 1, 2009, 8:21 pm
wrote:
> Gonna build a drawing table the old fashioned way, 6' long x 3' wide x
> 30" high and every little thing counts cause the cost of the hardwood,
> red oak, is astronomical - no room for errors.
My middle name, and leg, is wood, but I don't know that I'd
particularly want to have a _drafting_ table (a drawing table is red
and yellow plastic and made by Playskool) made out of solid wood.
Solid wood moves too much and probably wouldn't stay flat enough to
keep me happy. I'd go with doubled-up lumber-core plywood for the top
and put on a solid wood edging with pencil tray.
> I'm shopping for a Stanley 602 plane currently, for the top, that
> ain't gonna be cheap so I have about $200 set aside for it alone. I
> already have the chisels for the joinery and they're *scary sharp*,
> look it up.
A 602...? What's that going to do for the top?*
R
* Please note that I have a substantial subset of the Stanley planes
on Leach's Blood & Guts web site - many for sale. :)
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Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on September 3, 2009, 2:31 pm
> wrote:
> > Gonna build a drawing table the old fashioned way, 6' long x 3' wide x
> > 30" high and every little thing counts cause the cost of the hardwood,
> > red oak, is astronomical - no room for errors.
> My middle name, and leg, is wood, but I don't know that I'd
> particularly want to have a _drafting_ table (a drawing table is red
> and yellow plastic and made by Playskool) made out of solid wood.
> Solid wood moves too much and probably wouldn't stay flat enough to
> keep me happy. =A0I'd go with doubled-up lumber-core plywood for the top
> and put on a solid wood edging with pencil tray.
Things have evolved since I posted that.
Have you ever seen a drafting table with an airline attached?
Mine will, sort of. The airline comes out of the wall to the right of
the table.
And yes, it will be a drawing table, not limited to drafting.
The top will be at 15 degrees and the back edge will be anchored to
the wall.
Originally I was going to build this out of red oak, the old fashioned
way, but things have changed and I will be using more conventional
means.
As far as the plane, the top was going to be biscuited 1x8 red oak
boards that I would then use the Stanley 602 on, someone told me the
602 was the one I wanted.
But I will bow to your expertise and ask your advice.
I presume I want the longest plane economically feasible to use for
this application.
This is now just a hypothetical question, but I might still buy one
anyway.
Since I posted that message, I have found a local guy with a 56" wide
stationary belt sander.
And also, I am going to do as you suggested, use plywood for the top,
I think 1 layer of 1" Baltic and yes I made dress the edges as you
suggested, though the front side will have my Spiroll mounted on it.
FWIW, I will be doing the full range of activities on this table from
simple drafting and drawing up through airbrushing, watercolors and
acrylics and beyond.
> > I'm shopping for a Stanley 602 plane currently, for the top, that
> > ain't gonna be cheap so I have about $200 set aside for it alone. I
> > already have the chisels for the joinery and they're *scary sharp*,
> > look it up.
> A 602...? =A0What's that going to do for the top?*
> R
> * Please note that I have a substantial subset of the Stanley planes
> on Leach's Blood & Guts web site - many for sale. =A0:)
Jeeziss, that guy is infatuated with planes isn't he? LOL
That 601 on this page http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan15.htm is
gorgeous isn't it?
Looks like the 605 would be better suited to what I was gonna do.
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Posted by RicodJour on September 3, 2009, 2:55 pm
wrote:
> > wrote:
> > > I'm shopping for a Stanley 602 plane currently, for the top, that
> > > ain't gonna be cheap so I have about $200 set aside for it alone. I
> > > already have the chisels for the joinery and they're *scary sharp*,
> > > look it up.
> > A 602...? =A0What's that going to do for the top?*
> > * Please note that I have a substantial subset of the Stanley planes
> > on Leach's Blood & Guts web site - many for sale. =A0:)
> Jeeziss, that guy is infatuated with planes isn't he? =A0LOL
> That 601 on this pagehttp://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan15.htmis
> gorgeous isn't it?
> Looks like the 605 would be better suited to what I was gonna do.
A 602 is for finer detail work and is handy, due to its small size.
You need a range of planes to make all of them work well. It's like
sandpaper - you can skip a grade in size, but it won't make the job
any faster and will probably slow you down and give you inferior
results.
Here's the short list of planes that any self-respecting woodworker
would have on hand.
Block - something like a Stanley 65 or 65 1/2
Smoothing - a Stanley 4 is standard, but I like the 4 1/2 - the extra
width and mass makes a difference
Jack - Stanley 5 or 605
Jointer - Stanley 7 or 607 - the longer versions (8 & 608) are more
than most people need.
Contrary to what common sense would indicate, you don't necessarily go
in size order like you would with sandpaper. The long jointer
provides a long straight edge, but it's followed by a smooth plane to
fine tune the edges when joining boards.
If you can get a scraper plane, do so. They leave the most marvelous
finish - better than the finest sandpaper. The Japanese traditionally
leave a planed finish for a number of reasons.
R
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Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on September 20, 2009, 4:46 pm
RicodJour wrote:
> wrote:
> > > wrote:
> > > > I'm shopping for a Stanley 602 plane currently, for the top, that
> > > > ain't gonna be cheap so I have about $200 set aside for it alone. I
> > > > already have the chisels for the joinery and they're *scary sharp*,
> > > > look it up.
> > > A 602...? =A0What's that going to do for the top?*
> > > * Please note that I have a substantial subset of the Stanley planes
> > > on Leach's Blood & Guts web site - many for sale. =A0:)
> > Jeeziss, that guy is infatuated with planes isn't he? =A0LOL
> > That 601 on this pagehttp://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan15.htmis
> > gorgeous isn't it?
> > Looks like the 605 would be better suited to what I was gonna do.
> A 602 is for finer detail work and is handy, due to its small size.
> You need a range of planes to make all of them work well. It's like
> sandpaper - you can skip a grade in size, but it won't make the job
> any faster and will probably slow you down and give you inferior
> results.
> Here's the short list of planes that any self-respecting woodworker
> would have on hand.
> Block - something like a Stanley 65 or 65 1/2
> Smoothing - a Stanley 4 is standard, but I like the 4 1/2 - the extra
> width and mass makes a difference
> Jack - Stanley 5 or 605
> Jointer - Stanley 7 or 607 - the longer versions (8 & 608) are more
> than most people need.
> Contrary to what common sense would indicate, you don't necessarily go
> in size order like you would with sandpaper. The long jointer
> provides a long straight edge, but it's followed by a smooth plane to
> fine tune the edges when joining boards.
> If you can get a scraper plane, do so. They leave the most marvelous
> finish - better than the finest sandpaper. The Japanese traditionally
> leave a planed finish for a number of reasons.
> R
Don't know how I missed this before but I'm on google groups so
anything is possible I suppose.
Thanks for the tutorial, gonna forward this to me email for future
reference.
I haven't done much plane work for the past few decades but rather
enjoyed it in my youth.
I have a small Stanley block plane but don't know the number and never
used it much.
Wait a minute, just went and looked and its not a Stanley, in fact it
doesn't have a name at all, just says Made in China on it. And I have
a small Stanley finger plane, 12-101 that I used about 20 years ago on
a large 64" balsa wing I built for a friend. My original gameplan was
to biscuit joint 1x8 oak boards together, flipping the grains
alternatively, then cross planing them flat. I know that would have
been a gargantuan task, just like back in the old days, and kinda
unnneccessary considering my friend has a 56" planer, but I wanted to
do it. Or at least try to do it. David Marks, from "Woodworks" was
explaining the diff between sanding and scraping to me and it makes
sense. Sanding raises the grain but scraping or planing shears the
fibers flush and the feel is definately noticable. I understand the
finish on a scraped or planed surface is incomparable.
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> 30" high and every little thing counts cause the cost of the hardwood,
> red oak, is astronomical - no room for errors.