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Posted by Michael \(LS\) on July 31, 2007, 12:50 am
>
> >
> > >
> > >>
> > >>> Is there a way to avoid using door trims and mouldings? Personally
I
> > >>> don't like them, but there has to be a way to solve the door jamb /
> > >>> rough drywall edge without using door trims?
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks,
> > >>>
> > >>> MC
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >> Couldn't the area be filled in with the same drywall techniques used
to
> > >> patch a dent or hole, adding on those drywall corner-pieces used to
> hold
> > >> the compound so as to smooth the corners...?
> > >
> > > The first time the door gets slammed all the bullshit will fall out on
> the
> > > floor.
> > > Its a very delicate detail, making the surface of the drywall match
with
> > > the width of the door jamb/head.
> > > They make a plastic/aluminum channel that encases the edge of the
> drywall
> > > so you can get a nice trimmed edge, but again the jamb will move
> slightly
> > > as the door is used.
> > > Also, to conceal the channel you have to float the edge with something
> > > like 20 minute mud otherwise you'll see the edge of the plastic.
> > > Really, what he wants to do is a custom installation and probably
pretty
> > > difficult/expensive to get done.
> > > One other thing, take a good long look at the pocket end of the door
and
> > > see whats involved with NOT using casing on that!
> > > sheesh.........
> > > BTW: When purchasing a standard pocket door automatically buy crawford
> > > heavy duty hardware and shitcan the stock stuff that comes with the
door
> > > package.
> > > Otherwise you're doomed to a life of endless frustration and humility.
> > >
> >
> > Yes my trim/moulding and pocket door threads are related. I do use door
> > trims, but since I don't really like them, my trims and baseboards are
all
> > plain 5" wide square edged lumber. However on door openings all the way
> on
> > one side (perpendicular to another wall), there is not much space on
that
> > side to accomodate a 5" trim. In that case I am thinking I can do away
> with
> > trim completely around the doors instead of something asymmetrical. I
> > understand it's difficult and may be not the most practical but I don't
> see
> > another solution.
> >
> > MC
> >
> >
>
> What about holding the drywall back 5" and then flush mounting a 1/2" x ?"
> (chamfered/radiuses inside edges?). To hide the drywall/trim seam put a
> simple wainscot cap there. Then either paint the whole shebang to match
the
> wall or (IMHO even better) paint the 1x the wall color and the cap a nice
> subtly different complimentary shade.
>
> This will still be "casing" but (especially if painted to match the wall
> color) will blend with the wall surface much better.
>
> Michael (LS)
>
>
Another 2 quick ideas:
1. Use an extended jamb, very securely shimmed (and the shims all
recessed - not cut off flush with the jamb). Stop the drywall ~1/2" short
of the jamb. Insert a 3/4" or 1" corner moulding into the gap and tight to
the jamb to cover the end of the drywall.
2. Use an extended jamb with a daido groove for the drywall to die into.
It all boils down to there being lots of different options, but I would be
concerned with "non wood" solutions not being able to withstand normal wear
and tear.
Michael (LS)
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