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Framing required for 7x16 garage door?? Steel beam?

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Framing required for 7x16 garage door?? Steel beam? bertbarndoor 09-29-2008
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Posted by bertbarndoor on September 29, 2008, 8:30 am


Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
Thanks,

Rob

Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on September 29, 2008, 3:24 pm


> Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> Thanks,
>
> Rob

Use (2) 2x12's with a 1/2" plywood flitch plate, as long as there is
not a concentrated load over it.

Posted by bertbarndoor on September 29, 2008, 3:46 pm


Hi, thanks for the response... Do you mean a metal plate sandwiched
between two 2x10s? Is this something I construct myself, or do I buy
it this way? I'm also trying to picture how it would look when
installed? A lot of garage doors in the area seem to have a visible
piece of metal near the header, visible from the outside of the
garage, that runs the length of the garage and is parallel to the
horizon. I don't know what that is???

-r

wrote:
>
> > Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> > my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> > detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> > story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> > Thanks,
>
> > Rob
>
> Use (2) 2x12's with a 1/2" plywood flitch plate, as long as there is
> not a concentrated load over it.


Posted by bertbarndoor on October 1, 2008, 1:58 pm


Hi, I'm not designing the structure or the opening. I'm merely asking
so that I can be knowledgeable when speaking with, or selecting
contractors and also when determining if they are doing the job
properly. I didn't plan on doing the job myself unless I felt it was
within my sphere of experience which, thanks to many of the comments
posted here and in other groups, I now feel confident that it really
is not.

Cheers, Rob



>
> Rob
> If you need to ask these engineering questions you
> should NOT be designing your own structures.
> For example, do have snow-load or severe winds to
> deal with?
> Some local lumber stores sell garage kits that fill
> the bill.
> Ken


Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on October 2, 2008, 3:43 pm


> Hi, thanks for the response... =A0Do you mean a metal plate sandwiched
> between two 2x10s? Is this something I construct myself, or do I buy
> it this way? I'm also trying to picture how it would look when
> installed? A lot of garage doors in the area seem to have a visible
> piece of metal near the header, visible from the outside of the
> garage, that runs the length of the garage and is parallel to the
> horizon. I don't know what that is???
>
> -r
>
> wrote:
>
>
> > > Hi, just wondering if I need a steel beam to go across the header for
> > > my planned garage door that I am going to frame into an existing
> > > detached workshop. Or, can I just use some 2x4s or 2x10s? Single
> > > story, shingle roof, wood siding, garage to be 7x16 feet, aluminum.
> > > Thanks,
>
> > > Rob
>
> > Use (2) 2x12's with a 1/2" plywood flitch plate, as long as there is
> > not a concentrated load over it.

If you're using standard trusses or rafters and there is no
concentrated load over the opening you can use a 1/2" plywood flitch
plate.
Nail it through with 3" (not 3-1/2") 16d's every 6" staggered (thats a
lotta nails, use a gun), so you don't split the wood.
Build the beam on the concrete floor than hoist it up into position.
You'll need a friend or two to do the hoisting.
Don't forget the DOUBLE jack studs on each end.
If you're hiring profesionals to do this they already know how its
done.



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