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House Plan Ideas Sanbar 08-15-2007
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Posted by Michael Bulatovich on August 16, 2007, 9:37 am

>
>> Hi
>>
>> I am in the process of designing a house that I am planning to build. I
>> am
>> running into a problem with the exterior entry way and was hoping someone
>> might have an adequate solution.
>>
>> My goal is to have a very tall entry way. Unfortunately, it is causing me
> to
>> have a 14' ceiling in the interior foyer which would jog into a 12'
> ceiling.
>> I'm trying to avoid this while maintaining a certain amount of height on
> the
>> exterior. Hopefully, this is not too confusing. The PDF's below should
> help
>> to clarify things.
>>
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> http://www.lewismediagroup.com/uploads/LewisElevation.pdf
>>
>> http://www.lewismediagroup.com/uploads/LewisFloorplan.pdf
>>
>>
>
> O.K. I'll give you my thoughts (feel free to ignore them though if you'd
> like):
>
> The Foyer ceiling height:
> 1. You can just frame it down inside - This would maintain the outside
> look
> while "fixing" the height inside (though I personally don't know why your
> opposed to the higher ceiling)
> 2. Leave as is inside and out and just "coffer" the Foyer ceiling.
> 3. Change the outside and that will effect the inside. (and the Foyer
> roof
> area definitely needs some work - regardless of what you decide for the
> inside)
>
> I personally would address the outside (especially the overlapping gables)
> and still coffer the Foyer ceiling. Since the Foyer is fairly small the
> expense to coffer it wouldn't be outrageous. Another nice option would be
> to barrel vault the Foyer which would mesh nicely with the arched transom.
>
> Now on to other thoughts on the house (in no particular order):
> 1. Right window of Garage - I'd lose the arched trim above and instead of
> doing the "dog ear" I'd make it an eyebrow across that face. This would
> better match the toilet room window (which also should lose the arched
> trim). The eyebrow would also break up some of the siding and the
> "verticalness" which detracts from the entry's prominence.
> 2. Is that corner boards on the stone areas? Why?
> 3. I like the boxed out Kitchen window from the outside but not the
> inside
> (water splash and reachability).
> 4. Add a third bracket under Kitchen box-out (and make them all a little
> bigger)
> 5. Is that an arched transom in the Kitchen box-out? What's the space
> between the top of the window and the ceiling? Is there going to be an
> arched soffit over the sink?
> 6. That's a lot of roof, have you considered putting in a false dormer
> above the Kitchen box-out and having the box-out just die into the
> overhang?
> 7. how about moving the Kitchen window to the right slightly to better
> center outside?
> 8. Why is the center Study window wider than the flankers? IMHO it
> should
> either be wider so the difference in size is more noticeable, or the same
> as
> the flankers.
> 9. The finished inside or the rear Garage wall should flush out with the
> common wall and not have a 2' jog in it.
> 10. Is there a Garage service door?
> 11. The entry columns look too thin for their height to me.
> 12. I don't like the roof, gutters and dog-ears inside the covered entry.
> 13. Too much wall space above entry transom. (have you considered lower
> the Study ceiling to 10' instead of 12'?)
> 14. I'd put a flower box under the Study and Garage windows (the stone
> areas).
> 15. I'd look at making the Toilet Room window a double (there's room if
> you
> lose the Study closet) and losing the arched trim (it's too
> conflicting/close to the fascia)
> 16. I'd lose the Study closet, flip the toilet to that side, and extend
> the
> shower to the front of the house - thus allowing for a bench in the
> shower,
> glass block wall between shower and toilet room to allow daylight in, and
> enlarging the tub area which looks fairly cramped (then you could add in
> built-in shelves at the foot, or both ends, of the tub for
> towels/candles/TV/etc.)
> 17. Looks like a lot of wasted space between the vanity and tub/shower in
> the Master Bath? IMHO more than 5' clear is a waste. If you wanted you
> could "push" the vanity into the Bath more and have recessed shelves/file
> cabinets/wet bar/whatever in the Study.
> 18. Master Bedroom - I'm not crazy about the rear windows and the lack of
> view.
> 19. Master Closet - 6'-3"? That's too tight. figure 2' depth for
> clothes
> on each side that only leaves you 2'-3" of walk space which is too tight.
> The clear space should be more like 3' to 3'-3" since the clothes might
> actually have be put on inside the closet. Also, the door into the closet
> should be at least a 2'-4" door, 2'-6" would be better, and if left open
> most of the time, I'd consider a pocket door.
> 20. As someone else mentioned, the Dressing Area is (IMO) poorly shaped
> and
> totally misnamed (try "Master Foyer")
> 21. Great Room (which really it isn't, it's the Family/Living Room. I
> never like a room with things on every wall competing for me to look at
> (fireplace, TV, windows, built-in on 4 different walls means I can't sit
> and
> take everything in easily)
> 22. Walkway from Great Room to Dining Room - Barrel vault that and then
> re-center the door at the rear of the Dining room.
> 23. Open rail on Kitchen side of stairs - I'd lose it and just make the
> full wall run down to the end.
> 24. Pantry cabinetry depth would be better if it was 18" deep.
> 25. Add a small prep sink to the sit at island.
> 26. WIC at Bedroom 2/3 - 5'-10"??? That leaves only 1'-10" of "walk"
> space! They're not "walk-in" they're "reach-in"! You'd be better off
> with
> just a standard closet with 4' dbl doors and adding the extra space to one
> or both of the bedrooms. It'd also be nice to have a display niche at the
> end of the hall leading to the bedrooms (which would take 8"-12" out of
> the
> closet space).
> 27. Foyer doesn't center on Great Room, nor are the angle walls of the
> Great Room symmetrical.
> 28. Stairs to basement look like you're going to have headroom issues (or
> at least less than ideal headroom - if not an actual code violation).
> They
> also probably spit you out in a less than idea location in the basement.
> 29. On the right side of the front elevation is that a clipped area of
> the
> hip roof? That looks like either poor planning or just plan tacky.
> 30. The covered entry - this is the area you asked about and it does need
> a
> lot of re-design. It looks like there's a ~3' deep plant ledge over the
> front door? There's no protection from rain (well, there is, it's just
> useless because it's 14' off the ground and rain doesn't always fall
> straight down)
> 31. Elevation shows a sidewalk going to front door that is incorrect.
> 32. Driveway interaction with entry - hope nobody backs their car into
> the
> column!
> 33. What's the rear look like? I'm guessing it looks horrid because of
> the
> different plate heights?
> 34. What height doors are being used? With 10'-12' ceiling you're not
> going to just use 6'-8" tall doors are you? What about transoms over
> interior doors? Are there any, if so where? Keep in mind that just
> because
> you "can" do something doesn't mean you "should".
>
> That's all for now.....
>
> Michael (LS)

<astonished>
Things *slow* with you Michael?
There are so many things wrong with that building, I wouldn't volunteer
revisions. The owner has said he's happy with all but the entrance...(!)
--


MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca



Posted by Michael \(LS\) on August 16, 2007, 3:26 pm

>
> >
> >> Hi
> >>
> >> I am in the process of designing a house that I am planning to build. I
> >> am
> >> running into a problem with the exterior entry way and was hoping
someone
> >> might have an adequate solution.
> >>
> >> My goal is to have a very tall entry way. Unfortunately, it is causing
me
> > to
> >> have a 14' ceiling in the interior foyer which would jog into a 12'
> > ceiling.
> >> I'm trying to avoid this while maintaining a certain amount of height
on
> > the
> >> exterior. Hopefully, this is not too confusing. The PDF's below should
> > help
> >> to clarify things.
> >>
> >> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Barry
> >>
> >> http://www.lewismediagroup.com/uploads/LewisElevation.pdf
> >>
> >> http://www.lewismediagroup.com/uploads/LewisFloorplan.pdf
> >>
> >>
> >
> > O.K. I'll give you my thoughts (feel free to ignore them though if you'd
> > like):
> >
> > The Foyer ceiling height:
> > 1. You can just frame it down inside - This would maintain the outside
> > look
> > while "fixing" the height inside (though I personally don't know why
your
> > opposed to the higher ceiling)
> > 2. Leave as is inside and out and just "coffer" the Foyer ceiling.
> > 3. Change the outside and that will effect the inside. (and the Foyer
> > roof
> > area definitely needs some work - regardless of what you decide for the
> > inside)
> >
> > I personally would address the outside (especially the overlapping
gables)
> > and still coffer the Foyer ceiling. Since the Foyer is fairly small the
> > expense to coffer it wouldn't be outrageous. Another nice option would
be
> > to barrel vault the Foyer which would mesh nicely with the arched
transom.
> >
> > Now on to other thoughts on the house (in no particular order):
> > 1. Right window of Garage - I'd lose the arched trim above and instead
of
> > doing the "dog ear" I'd make it an eyebrow across that face. This would
> > better match the toilet room window (which also should lose the arched
> > trim). The eyebrow would also break up some of the siding and the
> > "verticalness" which detracts from the entry's prominence.
> > 2. Is that corner boards on the stone areas? Why?
> > 3. I like the boxed out Kitchen window from the outside but not the
> > inside
> > (water splash and reachability).
> > 4. Add a third bracket under Kitchen box-out (and make them all a
little
> > bigger)
> > 5. Is that an arched transom in the Kitchen box-out? What's the space
> > between the top of the window and the ceiling? Is there going to be an
> > arched soffit over the sink?
> > 6. That's a lot of roof, have you considered putting in a false dormer
> > above the Kitchen box-out and having the box-out just die into the
> > overhang?
> > 7. how about moving the Kitchen window to the right slightly to better
> > center outside?
> > 8. Why is the center Study window wider than the flankers? IMHO it
> > should
> > either be wider so the difference in size is more noticeable, or the
same
> > as
> > the flankers.
> > 9. The finished inside or the rear Garage wall should flush out with
the
> > common wall and not have a 2' jog in it.
> > 10. Is there a Garage service door?
> > 11. The entry columns look too thin for their height to me.
> > 12. I don't like the roof, gutters and dog-ears inside the covered
entry.
> > 13. Too much wall space above entry transom. (have you considered
lower
> > the Study ceiling to 10' instead of 12'?)
> > 14. I'd put a flower box under the Study and Garage windows (the stone
> > areas).
> > 15. I'd look at making the Toilet Room window a double (there's room if
> > you
> > lose the Study closet) and losing the arched trim (it's too
> > conflicting/close to the fascia)
> > 16. I'd lose the Study closet, flip the toilet to that side, and extend
> > the
> > shower to the front of the house - thus allowing for a bench in the
> > shower,
> > glass block wall between shower and toilet room to allow daylight in,
and
> > enlarging the tub area which looks fairly cramped (then you could add in
> > built-in shelves at the foot, or both ends, of the tub for
> > towels/candles/TV/etc.)
> > 17. Looks like a lot of wasted space between the vanity and tub/shower
in
> > the Master Bath? IMHO more than 5' clear is a waste. If you wanted you
> > could "push" the vanity into the Bath more and have recessed
shelves/file
> > cabinets/wet bar/whatever in the Study.
> > 18. Master Bedroom - I'm not crazy about the rear windows and the lack
of
> > view.
> > 19. Master Closet - 6'-3"? That's too tight. figure 2' depth for
> > clothes
> > on each side that only leaves you 2'-3" of walk space which is too
tight.
> > The clear space should be more like 3' to 3'-3" since the clothes might
> > actually have be put on inside the closet. Also, the door into the
closet
> > should be at least a 2'-4" door, 2'-6" would be better, and if left open
> > most of the time, I'd consider a pocket door.
> > 20. As someone else mentioned, the Dressing Area is (IMO) poorly shaped
> > and
> > totally misnamed (try "Master Foyer")
> > 21. Great Room (which really it isn't, it's the Family/Living Room. I
> > never like a room with things on every wall competing for me to look at
> > (fireplace, TV, windows, built-in on 4 different walls means I can't sit
> > and
> > take everything in easily)
> > 22. Walkway from Great Room to Dining Room - Barrel vault that and then
> > re-center the door at the rear of the Dining room.
> > 23. Open rail on Kitchen side of stairs - I'd lose it and just make the
> > full wall run down to the end.
> > 24. Pantry cabinetry depth would be better if it was 18" deep.
> > 25. Add a small prep sink to the sit at island.
> > 26. WIC at Bedroom 2/3 - 5'-10"??? That leaves only 1'-10" of "walk"
> > space! They're not "walk-in" they're "reach-in"! You'd be better off
> > with
> > just a standard closet with 4' dbl doors and adding the extra space to
one
> > or both of the bedrooms. It'd also be nice to have a display niche at
the
> > end of the hall leading to the bedrooms (which would take 8"-12" out of
> > the
> > closet space).
> > 27. Foyer doesn't center on Great Room, nor are the angle walls of the
> > Great Room symmetrical.
> > 28. Stairs to basement look like you're going to have headroom issues
(or
> > at least less than ideal headroom - if not an actual code violation).
> > They
> > also probably spit you out in a less than idea location in the basement.
> > 29. On the right side of the front elevation is that a clipped area of
> > the
> > hip roof? That looks like either poor planning or just plan tacky.
> > 30. The covered entry - this is the area you asked about and it does
need
> > a
> > lot of re-design. It looks like there's a ~3' deep plant ledge over the
> > front door? There's no protection from rain (well, there is, it's just
> > useless because it's 14' off the ground and rain doesn't always fall
> > straight down)
> > 31. Elevation shows a sidewalk going to front door that is incorrect.
> > 32. Driveway interaction with entry - hope nobody backs their car into
> > the
> > column!
> > 33. What's the rear look like? I'm guessing it looks horrid because of
> > the
> > different plate heights?
> > 34. What height doors are being used? With 10'-12' ceiling you're not
> > going to just use 6'-8" tall doors are you? What about transoms over
> > interior doors? Are there any, if so where? Keep in mind that just
> > because
> > you "can" do something doesn't mean you "should".
> >
> > That's all for now.....
> >
> > Michael (LS)
>
> <astonished>
> Things *slow* with you Michael?
> There are so many things wrong with that building, I wouldn't volunteer
> revisions. The owner has said he's happy with all but the entrance...(!)
> --
>
>
> MichaelB
> www.michaelbulatovich.ca
>
>

Actually, I've been swamped! My wife's having major health issues the last
2 weeks and we're supposed to be going on vacation next week and I've got to
get a couple of projects completed by tomorrow and......

I replied to the post last night at a time where I just needed something
"non-stressful" to think about, any other time and I would have ignored the
post!

NOTE TO OP - IGNORE THE FOLLOWING PARAGRAPH:
I do agree (but was afraid to say to the OP for fear that he'd feel "bashed"
and thus ignore the rest of my post) that the entry needs a major overhaul.
IMO this looks like the floor plan was decided on (for good or bad) and then
the elevation is what it is. You can't just take a bunch of rooms and
cut/paste them together and end up with a good design. This plan (like a
lot of "designs" done by homeowners or builders) appears more about room
dimensions and total house square footage than thought design. Since I'm
not designing, building, or buying this house it's really not my call to try
to fix it. However, I've seen too many house designs driven/built that fall
into this same category and if I can make suggestions to make it even a
little better it was worth my time.

Michael (LS)



Posted by Michael Bulatovich on August 16, 2007, 2:35 pm

>
>>
>> >
>> >> Hi
>> >>
>> >> I am in the process of designing a house that I am planning to build.
>> >> I
>> >> am
>> >> running into a problem with the exterior entry way and was hoping
> someone
>> >> might have an adequate solution.
>> >>
>> >> My goal is to have a very tall entry way. Unfortunately, it is causing
> me
>> > to
>> >> have a 14' ceiling in the interior foyer which would jog into a 12'
>> > ceiling.
>> >> I'm trying to avoid this while maintaining a certain amount of height
> on
>> > the
>> >> exterior. Hopefully, this is not too confusing. The PDF's below should
>> > help
>> >> to clarify things.
>> >>
>> >> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks
>> >>
>> >> Barry
>> >>
>> >> http://www.lewismediagroup.com/uploads/LewisElevation.pdf
>> >>
>> >> http://www.lewismediagroup.com/uploads/LewisFloorplan.pdf
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> > O.K. I'll give you my thoughts (feel free to ignore them though if
>> > you'd
>> > like):
>> >
>> > The Foyer ceiling height:
>> > 1. You can just frame it down inside - This would maintain the outside
>> > look
>> > while "fixing" the height inside (though I personally don't know why
> your
>> > opposed to the higher ceiling)
>> > 2. Leave as is inside and out and just "coffer" the Foyer ceiling.
>> > 3. Change the outside and that will effect the inside. (and the Foyer
>> > roof
>> > area definitely needs some work - regardless of what you decide for the
>> > inside)
>> >
>> > I personally would address the outside (especially the overlapping
> gables)
>> > and still coffer the Foyer ceiling. Since the Foyer is fairly small
>> > the
>> > expense to coffer it wouldn't be outrageous. Another nice option would
> be
>> > to barrel vault the Foyer which would mesh nicely with the arched
> transom.
>> >
>> > Now on to other thoughts on the house (in no particular order):
>> > 1. Right window of Garage - I'd lose the arched trim above and instead
> of
>> > doing the "dog ear" I'd make it an eyebrow across that face. This
>> > would
>> > better match the toilet room window (which also should lose the arched
>> > trim). The eyebrow would also break up some of the siding and the
>> > "verticalness" which detracts from the entry's prominence.
>> > 2. Is that corner boards on the stone areas? Why?
>> > 3. I like the boxed out Kitchen window from the outside but not the
>> > inside
>> > (water splash and reachability).
>> > 4. Add a third bracket under Kitchen box-out (and make them all a
> little
>> > bigger)
>> > 5. Is that an arched transom in the Kitchen box-out? What's the space
>> > between the top of the window and the ceiling? Is there going to be an
>> > arched soffit over the sink?
>> > 6. That's a lot of roof, have you considered putting in a false dormer
>> > above the Kitchen box-out and having the box-out just die into the
>> > overhang?
>> > 7. how about moving the Kitchen window to the right slightly to better
>> > center outside?
>> > 8. Why is the center Study window wider than the flankers? IMHO it
>> > should
>> > either be wider so the difference in size is more noticeable, or the
> same
>> > as
>> > the flankers.
>> > 9. The finished inside or the rear Garage wall should flush out with
> the
>> > common wall and not have a 2' jog in it.
>> > 10. Is there a Garage service door?
>> > 11. The entry columns look too thin for their height to me.
>> > 12. I don't like the roof, gutters and dog-ears inside the covered
> entry.
>> > 13. Too much wall space above entry transom. (have you considered
> lower
>> > the Study ceiling to 10' instead of 12'?)
>> > 14. I'd put a flower box under the Study and Garage windows (the stone
>> > areas).
>> > 15. I'd look at making the Toilet Room window a double (there's room
>> > if
>> > you
>> > lose the Study closet) and losing the arched trim (it's too
>> > conflicting/close to the fascia)
>> > 16. I'd lose the Study closet, flip the toilet to that side, and
>> > extend
>> > the
>> > shower to the front of the house - thus allowing for a bench in the
>> > shower,
>> > glass block wall between shower and toilet room to allow daylight in,
> and
>> > enlarging the tub area which looks fairly cramped (then you could add
>> > in
>> > built-in shelves at the foot, or both ends, of the tub for
>> > towels/candles/TV/etc.)
>> > 17. Looks like a lot of wasted space between the vanity and tub/shower
> in
>> > the Master Bath? IMHO more than 5' clear is a waste. If you wanted
>> > you
>> > could "push" the vanity into the Bath more and have recessed
> shelves/file
>> > cabinets/wet bar/whatever in the Study.
>> > 18. Master Bedroom - I'm not crazy about the rear windows and the lack
> of
>> > view.
>> > 19. Master Closet - 6'-3"? That's too tight. figure 2' depth for
>> > clothes
>> > on each side that only leaves you 2'-3" of walk space which is too
> tight.
>> > The clear space should be more like 3' to 3'-3" since the clothes might
>> > actually have be put on inside the closet. Also, the door into the
> closet
>> > should be at least a 2'-4" door, 2'-6" would be better, and if left
>> > open
>> > most of the time, I'd consider a pocket door.
>> > 20. As someone else mentioned, the Dressing Area is (IMO) poorly
>> > shaped
>> > and
>> > totally misnamed (try "Master Foyer")
>> > 21. Great Room (which really it isn't, it's the Family/Living Room. I
>> > never like a room with things on every wall competing for me to look at
>> > (fireplace, TV, windows, built-in on 4 different walls means I can't
>> > sit
>> > and
>> > take everything in easily)
>> > 22. Walkway from Great Room to Dining Room - Barrel vault that and
>> > then
>> > re-center the door at the rear of the Dining room.
>> > 23. Open rail on Kitchen side of stairs - I'd lose it and just make
>> > the
>> > full wall run down to the end.
>> > 24. Pantry cabinetry depth would be better if it was 18" deep.
>> > 25. Add a small prep sink to the sit at island.
>> > 26. WIC at Bedroom 2/3 - 5'-10"??? That leaves only 1'-10" of "walk"
>> > space! They're not "walk-in" they're "reach-in"! You'd be better off
>> > with
>> > just a standard closet with 4' dbl doors and adding the extra space to
> one
>> > or both of the bedrooms. It'd also be nice to have a display niche at
> the
>> > end of the hall leading to the bedrooms (which would take 8"-12" out of
>> > the
>> > closet space).
>> > 27. Foyer doesn't center on Great Room, nor are the angle walls of the
>> > Great Room symmetrical.
>> > 28. Stairs to basement look like you're going to have headroom issues
> (or
>> > at least less than ideal headroom - if not an actual code violation).
>> > They
>> > also probably spit you out in a less than idea location in the
>> > basement.
>> > 29. On the right side of the front elevation is that a clipped area of
>> > the
>> > hip roof? That looks like either poor planning or just plan tacky.
>> > 30. The covered entry - this is the area you asked about and it does
> need
>> > a
>> > lot of re-design. It looks like there's a ~3' deep plant ledge over
>> > the
>> > front door? There's no protection from rain (well, there is, it's just
>> > useless because it's 14' off the ground and rain doesn't always fall
>> > straight down)
>> > 31. Elevation shows a sidewalk going to front door that is incorrect.
>> > 32. Driveway interaction with entry - hope nobody backs their car into
>> > the
>> > column!
>> > 33. What's the rear look like? I'm guessing it looks horrid because
>> > of
>> > the
>> > different plate heights?
>> > 34. What height doors are being used? With 10'-12' ceiling you're not
>> > going to just use 6'-8" tall doors are you? What about transoms over
>> > interior doors? Are there any, if so where? Keep in mind that just
>> > because
>> > you "can" do something doesn't mean you "should".
>> >
>> > That's all for now.....
>> >
>> > Michael (LS)
>>
>> <astonished>
>> Things *slow* with you Michael?
>> There are so many things wrong with that building, I wouldn't volunteer
>> revisions. The owner has said he's happy with all but the entrance...(!)
>> --
>>
>>
>> MichaelB
>> www.michaelbulatovich.ca
>>
>>
>
> Actually, I've been swamped! My wife's having major health issues the
> last
> 2 weeks and we're supposed to be going on vacation next week and I've got
> to
> get a couple of projects completed by tomorrow and......

Hope she's well.

> I replied to the post last night at a time where I just needed something
> "non-stressful" to think about, any other time and I would have ignored
> the
> post!

I know what you mean. That's when I write lisp routines.

> NOTE TO OP - IGNORE THE FOLLOWING PARAGRAPH:
> I do agree (but was afraid to say to the OP for fear that he'd feel
> "bashed"
> and thus ignore the rest of my post) that the entry needs a major
> overhaul.
> IMO this looks like the floor plan was decided on (for good or bad) and
> then
> the elevation is what it is. You can't just take a bunch of rooms and
> cut/paste them together and end up with a good design.

You can't???!!
<chases printer's courier down the street> ; )




Posted by Sanbar on August 16, 2007, 9:38 am
>>
>
> O.K. I'll give you my thoughts (feel free to ignore them though if you'd
> like):
>
> The Foyer ceiling height:
> 1. You can just frame it down inside - This would maintain the outside
> look
> while "fixing" the height inside (though I personally don't know why your
> opposed to the higher ceiling)
> 2. Leave as is inside and out and just "coffer" the Foyer ceiling.
> 3. Change the outside and that will effect the inside. (and the Foyer
> roof
> area definitely needs some work - regardless of what you decide for the
> inside)
>
> I personally would address the outside (especially the overlapping gables)
> and still coffer the Foyer ceiling. Since the Foyer is fairly small the
> expense to coffer it wouldn't be outrageous. Another nice option would be
> to barrel vault the Foyer which would mesh nicely with the arched transom.
>
> Now on to other thoughts on the house (in no particular order):
> 1. Right window of Garage - I'd lose the arched trim above and instead of
> doing the "dog ear" I'd make it an eyebrow across that face. This would
> better match the toilet room window (which also should lose the arched
> trim). The eyebrow would also break up some of the siding and the
> "verticalness" which detracts from the entry's prominence.
> 2. Is that corner boards on the stone areas? Why?
> 3. I like the boxed out Kitchen window from the outside but not the
> inside
> (water splash and reachability).
> 4. Add a third bracket under Kitchen box-out (and make them all a little
> bigger)
> 5. Is that an arched transom in the Kitchen box-out? What's the space
> between the top of the window and the ceiling? Is there going to be an
> arched soffit over the sink?
> 6. That's a lot of roof, have you considered putting in a false dormer
> above the Kitchen box-out and having the box-out just die into the
> overhang?
> 7. how about moving the Kitchen window to the right slightly to better
> center outside?
> 8. Why is the center Study window wider than the flankers? IMHO it
> should
> either be wider so the difference in size is more noticeable, or the same
> as
> the flankers.
> 9. The finished inside or the rear Garage wall should flush out with the
> common wall and not have a 2' jog in it.
> 10. Is there a Garage service door?
> 11. The entry columns look too thin for their height to me.
> 12. I don't like the roof, gutters and dog-ears inside the covered entry.
> 13. Too much wall space above entry transom. (have you considered lower
> the Study ceiling to 10' instead of 12'?)
> 14. I'd put a flower box under the Study and Garage windows (the stone
> areas).
> 15. I'd look at making the Toilet Room window a double (there's room if
> you
> lose the Study closet) and losing the arched trim (it's too
> conflicting/close to the fascia)
> 16. I'd lose the Study closet, flip the toilet to that side, and extend
> the
> shower to the front of the house - thus allowing for a bench in the
> shower,
> glass block wall between shower and toilet room to allow daylight in, and
> enlarging the tub area which looks fairly cramped (then you could add in
> built-in shelves at the foot, or both ends, of the tub for
> towels/candles/TV/etc.)
> 17. Looks like a lot of wasted space between the vanity and tub/shower in
> the Master Bath? IMHO more than 5' clear is a waste. If you wanted you
> could "push" the vanity into the Bath more and have recessed shelves/file
> cabinets/wet bar/whatever in the Study.
> 18. Master Bedroom - I'm not crazy about the rear windows and the lack of
> view.
> 19. Master Closet - 6'-3"? That's too tight. figure 2' depth for
> clothes
> on each side that only leaves you 2'-3" of walk space which is too tight.
> The clear space should be more like 3' to 3'-3" since the clothes might
> actually have be put on inside the closet. Also, the door into the closet
> should be at least a 2'-4" door, 2'-6" would be better, and if left open
> most of the time, I'd consider a pocket door.
> 20. As someone else mentioned, the Dressing Area is (IMO) poorly shaped
> and
> totally misnamed (try "Master Foyer")
> 21. Great Room (which really it isn't, it's the Family/Living Room. I
> never like a room with things on every wall competing for me to look at
> (fireplace, TV, windows, built-in on 4 different walls means I can't sit
> and
> take everything in easily)
> 22. Walkway from Great Room to Dining Room - Barrel vault that and then
> re-center the door at the rear of the Dining room.
> 23. Open rail on Kitchen side of stairs - I'd lose it and just make the
> full wall run down to the end.
> 24. Pantry cabinetry depth would be better if it was 18" deep.
> 25. Add a small prep sink to the sit at island.
> 26. WIC at Bedroom 2/3 - 5'-10"??? That leaves only 1'-10" of "walk"
> space! They're not "walk-in" they're "reach-in"! You'd be better off
> with
> just a standard closet with 4' dbl doors and adding the extra space to one
> or both of the bedrooms. It'd also be nice to have a display niche at the
> end of the hall leading to the bedrooms (which would take 8"-12" out of
> the
> closet space).
> 27. Foyer doesn't center on Great Room, nor are the angle walls of the
> Great Room symmetrical.
> 28. Stairs to basement look like you're going to have headroom issues (or
> at least less than ideal headroom - if not an actual code violation).
> They
> also probably spit you out in a less than idea location in the basement.
> 29. On the right side of the front elevation is that a clipped area of
> the
> hip roof? That looks like either poor planning or just plan tacky.
> 30. The covered entry - this is the area you asked about and it does need
> a
> lot of re-design. It looks like there's a ~3' deep plant ledge over the
> front door? There's no protection from rain (well, there is, it's just
> useless because it's 14' off the ground and rain doesn't always fall
> straight down)
> 31. Elevation shows a sidewalk going to front door that is incorrect.
> 32. Driveway interaction with entry - hope nobody backs their car into
> the
> column!
> 33. What's the rear look like? I'm guessing it looks horrid because of
> the
> different plate heights?
> 34. What height doors are being used? With 10'-12' ceiling you're not
> going to just use 6'-8" tall doors are you? What about transoms over
> interior doors? Are there any, if so where? Keep in mind that just
> because
> you "can" do something doesn't mean you "should".
>
> That's all for now.....
>
> Michael (LS)


Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll have to look it all over and see
what I can incorporate.



Posted by 3D Peruna on August 16, 2007, 10:00 am
Sanbar wrote:
y, this is not too confusing. The PDF's below should help
> to clarify things.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Do yourself a big favor and throw in furniture into your plan. Be sure
you include such unimportant things as TV's, A/V equipment, computers,
sofas, chairs,, etc.

You'll find some really interesting things out...

One other point... Are you sure you want to drive so close so
consistently to the front entry column? Do you have the driveway laid
out? How are you going to back out of the garage from the stall closest
to the house?

And, the front elevation... there's something wrong with the balance. I
just see the big hole in the middle above the kitchen. Of course you
don't see structures in elevation. I still think, in perspective, it'll
still be a problem. Try making the gable above the entry a "double
gable" and enlarge it to come over the kitchen, too...

But, the honest truth is there is nothing special/nice/neat about this
house. I feel like I've seen hundreds of them in plan books, cheesy
developments and in the dreams of clients who could have so much better
if they'd take the chance AND HIRE A REAL DESIGNER!


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