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Posted by KONCHOK.PENDAY on May 16, 2009, 7:32 pm
KP2009MAY16 SUBS#19: MOLD MANIA!
I keep thinking about molds
and my ideal scene to make SUBS.
Take a five by nine foot 1" steel plate
you commonly see covering street trenchs
for cars to drive over. Weld crane hooks
in the corners. That's half your mold.
Now place a [4'x8'x6"] wood subs
panel face down in the middle of the
steel plate, so the framing is up,
leaving 6" around it for the mold.
Now cover the whole steel panel
one foot deep in Magic Compound X.
You'll need to cast slots 6" deep
at the ends and middles to put
your HDPE #2 plastic milk jugs in.
But you also need big strong bridges
to hold the central mold boxes.
You can use sections of flat steel
ventilation duct to make the feed
slots. Just place them over the
long framing members at ends and
centers. [9 slots.] Cover everything
else a foot deep in Magic Compound!
If you have Magic Compound CLAY,
you just turn your propane heater
on full blast to fire the clay red
hot, and burn the wood right out
of the mold. Rinse out any carbon
with a hose. You can place wire
mesh in the clay to make super-
strong steel-reinforced ceramic
molds, with pump-jack stirrups
over the feed-slots, so you're
all set to push the plastic panels
out of the mold. Cool it down slow
and you're ready to go!
If you have Magic Compound CONCRETE,
you can still use wire mesh, but you
don't even have to heat it. Just wait.
A month. Oil the wood really good!.
If the pump jacks get the wood out,
they will do plastic EZ!
If you have Magic Compound
HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICONE RUBBER
you can cure it either by heating, or by
mixing in the acivator just before molding.
[There are various kinds of silicone rubber.]
But you probably won't need jack mounts to
pry the panel out, because the mold is
slightly flexible, like a car tire, so you
can pry the mold off the panel with a bar.
Rubber is much lighter than concrete or
ceramic! No need for wire mesh either!
Because the mold sides are 6" wide, they
will be very resistant to deformation.
We can get a good casting without an
absolutely rigid mold: a big plus!
The steel plate will keep it flat!
Whatever your favorite Magic Compound,
just heat the steel plate with a home-
made copper tubing propane burner.
Don't even bother trying to heat
the top side of the mold. Heat rises.
Just shove those milk jugs in the slots.
This time you KNOW there's a payoff coming!
When liquid plastic reaches the "full"
mark inside the fill-chutes, STOP!
Cool off with water
and pry the mold off.
YOU'RE DONE!
Ain't that convenient!
A turd-world panel factory
that produces slick high
tech structures from useless
crap found free in dumps, and
mined free with nets for hundreds
of miles at sea in the dead zones!
NO ELECTRICITY REQUIRED!
Ain't that convenient!
Also, I finally figured out that to
shoot panels temporarily together,
you DON'T need duplex nails, which
stand up about 1/2", because you
can simply fire single head
twist-shank square nails
1/4" or even 3/8" high.
That's plenty to grag
with a bar to pull!
DUH! I forgot there's an
adjustment for that on my
beloved nail gun, because I
always shot flush. Square
shank twists don't even need
their heads to hold, which you
can leave sticking out to pull.
Shoot wood or plastic just the same!
EASIER! CHEAPER! BETTER!
WITH NO SPECIAL TOOLS!
Ain't that convenient!
You can even
re-use the nails
when you put the
panels up again,
if you want to
hand nail them.
Or sell them to
someone who does!
20% off for used-
once straights!
When you are not using the steel plate
for casting SUBS panels, you can play
ping-pong on the back! Just mark the
lines with tape and clamp on a net!
Ain't that convenient!
GOOD2GO!
O
--- )
\
DISTRIBUTION:
Newsgroups:
alt.ucp,alt.architecture,alt.architecture.alternative,alt.clearing.technology,
Reply to Blog: “blogical thought” = net-prophet.net/blog
PERMALINK: http://net-prophet.net/blog/?p=908
SUBS Home Page: http://net-prophet.net/subs
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Posted by phil scott on May 18, 2009, 9:54 pm
> KP2009MAY16 SUBS#19: MOLD MANIA!
> I keep thinking about molds
> and my ideal scene to make SUBS.
> Take a five by nine foot 1" steel plate
> you commonly see covering street trenchs
> for cars to drive over. =A0Weld crane hooks
> in the corners. =A0That's half your mold.
> Now place a [4'x8'x6"] wood subs
> panel face down in the middle of the
> steel plate, so the framing is up,
> leaving 6" around it for the mold.
> Now cover the whole steel panel
> one foot deep in Magic Compound X.
> You'll need to cast slots 6" deep
> at the ends and middles to put
> your HDPE #2 plastic milk jugs in.
> But you also need big strong bridges
> to hold the central mold boxes.
> You can use sections of flat steel
> ventilation duct to make the feed
> slots. =A0Just place them over the
> long framing members at ends and
> centers. [9 slots.] =A0Cover everything
> else a foot deep in Magic Compound!
> If you have Magic Compound CLAY,
> you just turn your propane heater
> on full blast to fire the clay red
> hot, and burn the wood right out
> of the mold. =A0Rinse out any carbon
> with a hose. =A0You can place wire
> mesh in the clay to make super-
> strong steel-reinforced ceramic
> molds, with pump-jack stirrups
> over the feed-slots, so you're
> all set to push the plastic panels
> out of the mold. =A0Cool it down slow
> and you're ready to go!
> If you have Magic Compound CONCRETE,
> you can still use wire mesh, but you
> don't even have to heat it. =A0Just wait.
> A month. =A0Oil the wood really good!.
> If the pump jacks get the wood out,
> they will do plastic EZ!
> If you have Magic Compound
> HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICONE RUBBER
> you can cure it either by heating, or by
> mixing in the acivator just before molding.
> [There are various kinds of silicone rubber.]
> But you probably won't need jack mounts to
> pry the panel out, because the mold is
> slightly flexible, like a car tire, so you
> can pry the mold off the panel with a bar.
> Rubber is much lighter than concrete or
> ceramic! No need for wire mesh either!
> Because the mold sides are 6" wide, they
> will be very resistant to deformation.
> We can get a good casting without an
> absolutely rigid mold: a big plus!
> The steel plate will keep it flat!
> Whatever your favorite Magic Compound,
> just heat the steel plate with a home-
> made copper tubing propane burner.
> Don't even bother trying to heat
> the top side of the mold. =A0Heat rises.
> Just shove those milk jugs in the slots.
> This time you KNOW there's a payoff coming!
> When liquid plastic reaches the "full"
> mark inside the fill-chutes, STOP!
> Cool off with water
> and pry the mold off.
> YOU'RE DONE!
> Ain't that convenient!
> A turd-world panel factory
> that produces slick high
> tech structures from useless
> crap found free in dumps, and
> mined free with nets for hundreds
> of miles at sea in the dead zones!
> NO ELECTRICITY REQUIRED!
> Ain't that convenient!
> Also, I finally figured out that to
> shoot panels temporarily together,
> you DON'T need duplex nails, which
> stand up about 1/2", because you
> can simply fire single head
> twist-shank square nails
> 1/4" or even 3/8" high.
> That's plenty to grag
> with a bar to pull!
> DUH! =A0I forgot there's an
> adjustment for that on my
> beloved nail gun, because I
> always shot flush. =A0Square
> shank twists don't even need
> their heads to hold, which you
> can leave sticking out to pull.
> Shoot wood or plastic just the same!
> EASIER! CHEAPER! BETTER!
> WITH NO SPECIAL TOOLS!
> Ain't that convenient!
> You can even
> re-use the nails
> when you put the
> panels up again,
> if you want to
> hand nail them.
> Or sell them to
> someone who does!
> 20% off for used-
> once straights!
> When you are not using the steel plate
> for casting SUBS panels, you can play
> ping-pong on the back! =A0Just mark the
> lines with tape and clamp on a net!
> Ain't that convenient!
> GOOD2GO!
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 O
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 --- =A0)
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0\
> DISTRIBUTION:
> Newsgroups:
> alt.ucp,alt.architecture,alt.architecture.alternative,alt.clearing.techno=
lo=ADgy,
> Reply to Blog: =93blogical thought=94 =3D net-prophet.net/blog
> PERMALINK:http://net-prophet.net/blog/?p=3D908
> SUBS Home Page:http://net-prophet.net/subs
plastic has issues, a mix of scrap plastics has many more issues.
I used hundred or so 10'x 5' x 3/8" thick clear UV stopping clear
yellow panes to build a
good sized see through electronics research lab in 1989 or so... the
pieces framed in steel held their
shape, the ceiling pieces held less frirmly expanded about 2" each in
length when the high intensity
lighting came on. you can look up the coefficient of expansion for
various plastics on the web.
a mix of plastics at random would have a range of other issues, random
expansion within a panel
along with variable strength and rigidity profiles... solutions would
involve a floating foundation for example.
A friend of mine did a 400' long refrigerated ship in alaska once.
steel bulkheads port to starboard, welded
when he fired off the refrigeration, as the holds go below zero, the
bulkheads shrank about an inch, cracking the hull
top to bottom, the ship sank in about a minute and a half, as the
investors were standing on the dock drinking
martini's and eating sushi... only the ships radio antenna remained
above water.
the plastic house would a lot more expansion than that, but a lot less
damage done when it happened.
Concrete on the other hand has a much lower coefficient of
expansion... usuall the joints between panels can be tar or a flex
compound that prevents problems.
Phil scott
Phil Scott.
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> I keep thinking about molds
> and my ideal scene to make SUBS.
> Take a five by nine foot 1" steel plate
> you commonly see covering street trenchs
> for cars to drive over. =A0Weld crane hooks
> in the corners. =A0That's half your mold.
> Now place a [4'x8'x6"] wood subs
> panel face down in the middle of the
> steel plate, so the framing is up,
> leaving 6" around it for the mold.
> Now cover the whole steel panel
> one foot deep in Magic Compound X.
> You'll need to cast slots 6" deep
> at the ends and middles to put
> your HDPE #2 plastic milk jugs in.
> But you also need big strong bridges
> to hold the central mold boxes.
> You can use sections of flat steel
> ventilation duct to make the feed
> slots. =A0Just place them over the
> long framing members at ends and
> centers. [9 slots.] =A0Cover everything
> else a foot deep in Magic Compound!
> If you have Magic Compound CLAY,
> you just turn your propane heater
> on full blast to fire the clay red
> hot, and burn the wood right out
> of the mold. =A0Rinse out any carbon
> with a hose. =A0You can place wire
> mesh in the clay to make super-
> strong steel-reinforced ceramic
> molds, with pump-jack stirrups
> over the feed-slots, so you're
> all set to push the plastic panels
> out of the mold. =A0Cool it down slow
> and you're ready to go!
> If you have Magic Compound CONCRETE,
> you can still use wire mesh, but you
> don't even have to heat it. =A0Just wait.
> A month. =A0Oil the wood really good!.
> If the pump jacks get the wood out,
> they will do plastic EZ!
> If you have Magic Compound
> HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICONE RUBBER
> you can cure it either by heating, or by
> mixing in the acivator just before molding.
> [There are various kinds of silicone rubber.]
> But you probably won't need jack mounts to
> pry the panel out, because the mold is
> slightly flexible, like a car tire, so you
> can pry the mold off the panel with a bar.
> Rubber is much lighter than concrete or
> ceramic! No need for wire mesh either!
> Because the mold sides are 6" wide, they
> will be very resistant to deformation.
> We can get a good casting without an
> absolutely rigid mold: a big plus!
> The steel plate will keep it flat!
> Whatever your favorite Magic Compound,
> just heat the steel plate with a home-
> made copper tubing propane burner.
> Don't even bother trying to heat
> the top side of the mold. =A0Heat rises.
> Just shove those milk jugs in the slots.
> This time you KNOW there's a payoff coming!
> When liquid plastic reaches the "full"
> mark inside the fill-chutes, STOP!
> Cool off with water
> and pry the mold off.
> YOU'RE DONE!
> Ain't that convenient!
> A turd-world panel factory
> that produces slick high
> tech structures from useless
> crap found free in dumps, and
> mined free with nets for hundreds
> of miles at sea in the dead zones!
> NO ELECTRICITY REQUIRED!
> Ain't that convenient!
> Also, I finally figured out that to
> shoot panels temporarily together,
> you DON'T need duplex nails, which
> stand up about 1/2", because you
> can simply fire single head
> twist-shank square nails
> 1/4" or even 3/8" high.
> That's plenty to grag
> with a bar to pull!
> DUH! =A0I forgot there's an
> adjustment for that on my
> beloved nail gun, because I
> always shot flush. =A0Square
> shank twists don't even need
> their heads to hold, which you
> can leave sticking out to pull.
> Shoot wood or plastic just the same!
> EASIER! CHEAPER! BETTER!
> WITH NO SPECIAL TOOLS!
> Ain't that convenient!
> You can even
> re-use the nails
> when you put the
> panels up again,
> if you want to
> hand nail them.
> Or sell them to
> someone who does!
> 20% off for used-
> once straights!
> When you are not using the steel plate
> for casting SUBS panels, you can play
> ping-pong on the back! =A0Just mark the
> lines with tape and clamp on a net!
> Ain't that convenient!
> GOOD2GO!
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 O
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 --- =A0)
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0\
> DISTRIBUTION:
> Newsgroups:
> alt.ucp,alt.architecture,alt.architecture.alternative,alt.clearing.techno=