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Kraft Paper Don 01-15-2007
---> Re: Kraft Paper Pierre Levesque01-16-2007
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Posted by Don on January 15, 2007, 4:55 pm
What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?

The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of insulation
into.
That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.

I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after the
drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?

BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
ceiling.



Posted by RicodJour on January 15, 2007, 10:34 pm
Don wrote:
> What is the purpose of Kraft Paper on batt insulation?
>
> The reason I'm asking is that today I finished the insulation in my office
> and there were a few odd shaped cavities that I stuffed scraps of insulation
> into.
> That insulation did not have the brown kraft paper on it.
>
> I don't want condensation or thermal breaks or any other surprises after the
> drywall is up, so should I do anything to that exposed insulation?
>
> BTW: I'm using Johns Manville batts, R13 3.5" - walls, and R30 10.5" -
> ceiling.

The kraft paper is part of the vapor barrier. There's some schmutz
sprayed onto the back of the paper that reduces the permeability and
bonds the fiberglass to the paper.

R


Posted by 3D Peruna on January 16, 2007, 8:29 am
RicodJour wrote:

>
> The kraft paper is part of the vapor barrier. There's some schmutz
> sprayed onto the back of the paper that reduces the permeability and
> bonds the fiberglass to the paper.
>

Yeah...and you've seen a typical installation. Look at the seams...not
a very effective vapor barrier. Maybe, just maybe, in a good drywall
assembly with careful attention paid to the holes (electrical boxes,
chases, etc)....


Posted by Don on January 16, 2007, 8:48 am
"3D Peruna"> wrote
> RicodJour wrote:
>> The kraft paper is part of the vapor barrier. There's some schmutz
>> sprayed onto the back of the paper that reduces the permeability and
>> bonds the fiberglass to the paper.
>
> Yeah...and you've seen a typical installation. Look at the seams...not a
> very effective vapor barrier. Maybe, just maybe, in a good drywall
> assembly with careful attention paid to the holes (electrical boxes,
> chases, etc)....

Don't know how typical mine is but in my honest opinion it *looks* like
hell.
I've never done batt insulation before and though its not physically hard it
is a little demanding.
Knife blades don't last long when cutting batts and I've went through prolly
at least a dozen of them.
When the blade dulls it tends to rip the kraft, so there are lots of areas
where the batts are showing through.
I did staple all of it though, 5 (1250 count) boxes of Arrow T-50's, 1/4".
2 days of stapling has my right hand in anguish.

Today will be comprised of cleaning up the insulation and getting set up to
do the drywall.
I have to create a stable cut table and (2) 8' T-squares to support the
stuff while I get the first screw started.

Its cold as a mf right now (18 degrees) and snowing like hell.
(no Ken, I don't have shorts on today :-) )
About 30 cardinals in the front yard and they really stand out against the
white background.
Looks like a christmas card or sumfink............



Posted by Bob Morrison on January 16, 2007, 10:23 am
In a previous post Don wrote...
> Today will be comprised of cleaning up the insulation and getting set up to
> do the drywall.
>

Don:

I suggest that you cover the wall with 4 or 6 mil visqueen before you
install the GWB. This will restore the vapor barrier. You will only need
enough staples to hold the plastic in place until you put up the GWB.

Apply the plastic across the outlet boxes then make an "X" cut at the
boxes and tape the edges of the plastic to the box with duct tape or
aluminum foil insulation tape (my preferred tape for this application).

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

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