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Laminated beams? nmbexcuse 02-12-2008
---> Re: Laminated beams? Michael Bulatov...02-12-2008
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Posted by MiamiCuse on February 12, 2008, 10:35 pm
Kris:

It's a vaulted ceiling with 2" cedar deck and the space between the deck and
roof is virtually inaccessible (very shallow). Here is the cross section
with the beam shown in red. I was mistaken when I said it's 24"x12", I
measured it real dimensions are 6.75" wide by 16" deep.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/family%20room/beam.jpg

The exposed rafters resting on the beam on one end and 8" concrete block
wall on the other end. The span of this beam is 30 feet long.

This is also the family room that I was asking about the doors on either
side, plan view:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/family%20room/doors.jpg

I cannot hang it on the cedar deck there is no way I can wire it.

MC

> nmbexcuse@hotmail.com wrote in news:1b6d52b0-8335-4879-89db-2e6ec51807e2
> @i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
>
>> How strong are laminated beams? Better than solid wood?
>>
>> I have a 32' long laminated beam 24" deep about 12" wide sitting on
>> 4x6 steel columns on each end.
>>
>> After 35 years it "looks" ok and is holding up the exposed roof
>> structure.
>>
>> I am wondering if it would be ok to drill three holes through it to
>> hang three heavy ceiling fans. Not sure I want to do that anyways but
>> wondering if that is an option.
>>
>> MC
>
> COuld you not hang them using cross-pieces attached to the rafters, as
> opposed to drilling into the main support beam?
>



Posted by Kris Krieger on February 13, 2008, 11:26 am

> Kris:
>
> It's a vaulted ceiling with 2" cedar deck and the space between the
> deck and roof is virtually inaccessible (very shallow). Here is the
> cross section with the beam shown in red. I was mistaken when I said
> it's 24"x12", I measured it real dimensions are 6.75" wide by 16"
> deep.
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/family%20room/beam.jpg

I see, so crosspieces wouldn't work I guess - I was picturing somethign
different (since I've never been in your house <g!>). It was just a
thought trying to avoid drilling into the support beam...



>
> The exposed rafters resting on the beam on one end and 8" concrete
> block wall on the other end. The span of this beam is 30 feet long.
>
> This is also the family room that I was asking about the doors on
> either side, plan view:
>
> http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/143house/family%20room/doors.jpg
>
> I cannot hang it on the cedar deck there is no way I can wire it.
>
> MC
>
>> nmbexcuse@hotmail.com wrote in
>> news:1b6d52b0-8335-4879-89db-2e6ec51807e2
>> @i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
>>
>>> How strong are laminated beams? Better than solid wood?
>>>
>>> I have a 32' long laminated beam 24" deep about 12" wide sitting on
>>> 4x6 steel columns on each end.
>>>
>>> After 35 years it "looks" ok and is holding up the exposed roof
>>> structure.
>>>
>>> I am wondering if it would be ok to drill three holes through it to
>>> hang three heavy ceiling fans. Not sure I want to do that anyways
>>> but wondering if that is an option.
>>>
>>> MC
>>
>> COuld you not hang them using cross-pieces attached to the rafters,
>> as opposed to drilling into the main support beam?
>>
>
>
>


Posted by MiamiCuse on February 12, 2008, 11:18 pm

>
>> How strong are laminated beams? Better than solid wood?
>>
>> I have a 32' long laminated beam 24" deep about 12" wide sitting on
>> 4x6 steel columns on each end.
>>
>> After 35 years it "looks" ok and is holding up the exposed roof
>> structure.
>>
>> I am wondering if it would be ok to drill three holes through it to
>> hang three heavy ceiling fans. Not sure I want to do that anyways but
>> wondering if that is an option.
>>
>> MC
>
> Don't drill the beam.
> Screw a backer plate on the bottom side of the beam to carry the weight of
> the fan.
> Screw a piece of harmonizing wood vertically on the least visible side of
> the beam with a channel routed in the inside of the piece to conceal the
> conduit for the fan wire.
> I'm presuming you are talking about drilling a hole vertically through the
> beam, right?
> Man, that'd take some kinda drill bit.
> The weight of a couple ceiling fans is inconsequential to the load the
> beam is already carrying.
>

Don:

I don't want to drill the beam, as a matter of fact, I am sure if I try to
drill it the hole will not be at 90 degrees when it's done it will be like
86 degrees and the rod will be slanted. The beam size I mentioned in the
initial post is incorrect, NOT 12x24, but 6.75" W x 16" DEEP.

I am confused by the backer plate. How is the backer plate going to be
suspended? By the conduit that is off to one side of the beam? Will the
backer plate also be off to one side? I cannot visualize what you mean.

Thanks,



Posted by Chuck News on February 13, 2008, 2:58 am

>
>>
>>> How strong are laminated beams? Better than solid wood?
>>>
>>> I have a 32' long laminated beam 24" deep about 12" wide sitting on
>>> 4x6 steel columns on each end.
>>>
>>> After 35 years it "looks" ok and is holding up the exposed roof
>>> structure.
>>>
>>> I am wondering if it would be ok to drill three holes through it to
>>> hang three heavy ceiling fans. Not sure I want to do that anyways but
>>> wondering if that is an option.
>>>
>>> MC
>>
>> Don't drill the beam.
>> Screw a backer plate on the bottom side of the beam to carry the weight
>> of the fan.
>> Screw a piece of harmonizing wood vertically on the least visible side of
>> the beam with a channel routed in the inside of the piece to conceal the
>> conduit for the fan wire.
>> I'm presuming you are talking about drilling a hole vertically through
>> the beam, right?
>> Man, that'd take some kinda drill bit.
>> The weight of a couple ceiling fans is inconsequential to the load the
>> beam is already carrying.
>>
>
> Don:
>
> I don't want to drill the beam, as a matter of fact, I am sure if I try to
> drill it the hole will not be at 90 degrees when it's done it will be like
> 86 degrees and the rod will be slanted. The beam size I mentioned in the
> initial post is incorrect, NOT 12x24, but 6.75" W x 16" DEEP.
>
> I am confused by the backer plate. How is the backer plate going to be
> suspended? By the conduit that is off to one side of the beam? Will the
> backer plate also be off to one side? I cannot visualize what you mean.
>
> Thanks,
>

I did a quick calculation of a 6.75 X 16 glu lam beam with 2000 psi
allowable stress for loading. The section modulus of this beam is 288 in^3.
The span is 23 ft. This allows for 48 kip-ft moment worst case. the load
per foot for a simple beam would be 726 lb/ft loading. If the tributary
width/spacing of the beam say 10 feet this allows 73 lb/ft^2 loading. Roof
loads by code is 20 lb/ft^2 ( no snow ). The beams appears to be quite
strong and three fans at 20 lb each or 60 lbs is really nothing. I would
contact the manufacturer to find out what the suggested installation will be
for your condition and attach it to the beam accordingly.

Good luck...

CID...


Posted by MiamiCuse on February 13, 2008, 3:33 am

>
>>
>>>
>>>> How strong are laminated beams? Better than solid wood?
>>>>
>>>> I have a 32' long laminated beam 24" deep about 12" wide sitting on
>>>> 4x6 steel columns on each end.
>>>>
>>>> After 35 years it "looks" ok and is holding up the exposed roof
>>>> structure.
>>>>
>>>> I am wondering if it would be ok to drill three holes through it to
>>>> hang three heavy ceiling fans. Not sure I want to do that anyways but
>>>> wondering if that is an option.
>>>>
>>>> MC
>>>
>>> Don't drill the beam.
>>> Screw a backer plate on the bottom side of the beam to carry the weight
>>> of the fan.
>>> Screw a piece of harmonizing wood vertically on the least visible side
>>> of the beam with a channel routed in the inside of the piece to conceal
>>> the conduit for the fan wire.
>>> I'm presuming you are talking about drilling a hole vertically through
>>> the beam, right?
>>> Man, that'd take some kinda drill bit.
>>> The weight of a couple ceiling fans is inconsequential to the load the
>>> beam is already carrying.
>>>
>>
>> Don:
>>
>> I don't want to drill the beam, as a matter of fact, I am sure if I try
>> to drill it the hole will not be at 90 degrees when it's done it will be
>> like 86 degrees and the rod will be slanted. The beam size I mentioned
>> in the initial post is incorrect, NOT 12x24, but 6.75" W x 16" DEEP.
>>
>> I am confused by the backer plate. How is the backer plate going to be
>> suspended? By the conduit that is off to one side of the beam? Will the
>> backer plate also be off to one side? I cannot visualize what you mean.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>
> I did a quick calculation of a 6.75 X 16 glu lam beam with 2000 psi
> allowable stress for loading. The section modulus of this beam is 288
> in^3. The span is 23 ft. This allows for 48 kip-ft moment worst case.
> the load per foot for a simple beam would be 726 lb/ft loading. If the
> tributary width/spacing of the beam say 10 feet this allows 73 lb/ft^2
> loading. Roof loads by code is 20 lb/ft^2 ( no snow ). The beams appears
> to be quite strong and three fans at 20 lb each or 60 lbs is really
> nothing. I would contact the manufacturer to find out what the suggested
> installation will be for your condition and attach it to the beam
> accordingly.
>
> Good luck...
>
> CID...
>
Chuck: The span is not 23 it's 32ft. Does it change the picture? Thanks.



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