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Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Se=F1ior_Popcor 08-31-2009
---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...08-31-2009
  ---> Re: Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...09-01-2009
  | ---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-03-2009
  |   ---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-06-2009
  |     ---> Re: Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...09-07-2009
  |     | ---> Re: Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...09-10-2009
  |     |   `--> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-11-2009
  |     `--> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-11-2009
  ---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-12-2009
    ---> Re: Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...09-12-2009
      ---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-15-2009
        ---> Re: Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...09-16-2009
          ---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-18-2009
            ---> Re: Post-and-Beam creative1985@gm...09-20-2009
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            `--> Re: Post-and-Beam =?ISO-8859-1?Q?...09-20-2009
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Posted by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Se=F1ior_Popcor on September 12, 2009, 9:55 pm


wrote:
> > creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
e:
> > > > > > creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
wrote:
> > > > > > > > Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut wrote:
> > > > > > > > > On Aug 31, 10:14=A0pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative=
1...@gmail.com>
> > > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > On Aug 31, 1:02=A0am, Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut <glome..=
.@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 29, 2:36 pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creativ=
e1...@gmail.com>
> > > > > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Oh ya, and you can also take many PAB frames
> > > > > > > > > > > > > apart and rebuild/re-use them, and they last long=
.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Depends.
> > > > > > > > > > > > I went down to Bedford a couple weeks ago to look a=
t a 19th century
> > > > > > > > > > > > barn someone was giving away and decided it wasn't =
worth the effort.
> > > > > > > > > > > > The elements had gotten to the structure and prior =
to that the animals
> > > > > > > > > > > > had given it a thorough thrashing.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Imagine a century of cows chewing on stuff.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Some of the upper structure, the hay mow <sp> was s=
alvageable but the
> > > > > > > > > > > > guy said take all of it or none of it, so I walked.
> > > > > > > > > > > > 15 years ago I helped a guy in Kentucky disassemble=
an 18th century
> > > > > > > > > > > > real log cabin (18" wide logs, square cut, double d=
ovetail) and
> > > > > > > > > > > > transport it to West Virginia and reconstruct it. W=
hat a job.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Analyzing old wood is a science and I'm in kinderga=
rten.
> > > > > > > > > > > > I pounded a steel drift into the center of a 12"x12=
" column and it
> > > > > > > > > > > > went all the way in with little effort.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Not good.
> > > > > > > > > > > > In fact, I had to use another drift to pound the fi=
rst one all the way
> > > > > > > > > > > > through and out the other side to get it out.
> > > > > > > > > > > > On another one, more toward the center of the build=
ing, the drift
> > > > > > > > > > > > bounced off the surface of the column, it was solid=
maple.
> > > > > > > > > > > > I like the look of the stuff, the post and beam, wh=
ere, like you said,
> > > > > > > > > > > > the craftsmanship becomes the art of the thing, and=
a constant
> > > > > > > > > > > > reminder of the effort involved, not to mention the=
cost.
> > > > > > > > > > > > The harder the wood, the easier to work.
> > > > > > > > > > > Logs interest me less than PAB's, but maybe slightly =
more than sticks.
> > > > > > > > > > > I have a problem with the idea of many kinds of stick=
s, unless for
> > > > > > > > > > > smaller-scale homes, in which case, their scale rende=
rs their stick-
> > > > > > > > > > > structure more like PAB anyway, and that's how they m=
ight do well to
> > > > > > > > > > > be approached.
> > > > > > > > > > > Post-and-beams (what I prefer to call them, over 'tim=
berframes') are
> > > > > > > > > > > probably cheaper in the long run, and maybe even in t=
he short too, if
> > > > > > > > > > > you factor in many other things that some people don'=
t seem to
> > > > > > > > > > > consider.
> > > > > > > > > > > (And there is value to be had beyond mere money).
> > > > > > > > > > > All things out of consideration, however, they're sti=
ll not that much
> > > > > > > > > > > more expensive than sticks, and so still worth it for=
what you get,
> > > > > > > > > > > which is far more.
> > > > > > > > > > > Another thing is whether PAB's (at least their frames=
, bents and/or
> > > > > > > > > > > sections) are (more) conducive to being prefabbed off=
site; if a
> > > > > > > > > > > shorter time is needed to build them once onsite (and=
even in total);
> > > > > > > > > > > and if there is less environmental impact to the site=
.
> > > > > > > > > > Oh dear.
> > > > > > > > > > No slam, but where did you get the idea that PAB wasn't=
much more
> > > > > > > > > > expensive than sticks, assuming you mean 2x studs?
> > > > > > > > > > Large chunks of lumber are HUGELY expensive in themselv=
es, the labor
> > > > > > > > > > for the joinery is very expensive and the erection of t=
he heavy timers
> > > > > > > > > > is very expensive as well. And get this, all of it is p=
urely cosmetic!
> > > > > > > > > I'm talking about structural post and beam, as opposed to=
cosmetic,
> > > > > > > > > and have seen a few quotes online of 10%-15% more expensi=
ve in total
> > > > > > > > > for the finished house, if I read correctly.
> > > > > > > > > The actual PAB frame alone is a little more expensive, bu=
t I'm still
> > > > > > > > > getting 30%-35%.
> > > > > > > > > > There is no structural reason to warrant large timbers =
for home
> > > > > > > > > > construction.
> > > > > > > > > To me there is and there are other reasons too.
> > > > > > > > > From what I'm learning, they last a very long time; are r=
eusable
> > > > > > > > > (recyclable); may be able to handle fires better (larger =
diameter
> > > > > > > > > timbers); are cost-effective over the long run; create be=
tter spaces;
> > > > > > > > > are good for earthquakes and hurricanes; are preferred by=
many people
> > > > > > > > > from an aesthetic/spiritual/historic/natural standpoint (=
and therefore
> > > > > > > > > may have better intrinsic, social, lasting and/or resale/=
rental
> > > > > > > > > value); and maybe more reasons too.
> > > > > > > > > > Here's a pretty accurate rule of thumb for residential =
construction
> > > > > > > > > > using conventional method.
> > > > > > > > > > Materials =3D $X
> > > > > > > > > > Labor =3D 2x $X
> > > > > > > > > > For PAB I'd guess the cost is:
> > > > > > > > > My clients want more than guesswork.
> > > > > > > > > > Material =3D 4x $X
> > > > > > > > > > Labor =3D 4x $X
> > > > > > > > > > And I'm probably too conservative.
> > > > > > > > > > Further, you still have to use sticks or some such othe=
r filler
> > > > > > > > > > material between the PAB's.
> > > > > > > > > I have seen a PAB design in the book 'The House You Build=
', by Duo
> > > > > > > > > Dickinson, that apparently has the external walls away fr=
om the posts
> > > > > > > > > and beams (which is what I like-- the idea that you can s=
wing
> > > > > > > > > completely around an "external" post from the inside), so=
that there's
> > > > > > > > > no, or less, infill required. I don't yet know how they m=
ade the walls
> > > > > > > > > though. Perhaps SIP's or 2x4's and some windows.
> > > > > > > > > > There's a reason why you never see small PAB homes.
> > > > > > > > > I already have online. I've seen all kinds of sizes, from=
sheds and
> > > > > > > > > cabins on up to timber-processing factories made of PABs.
> > > > > > > > > > Almost all of them are large because the people that ca=
n afford them
> > > > > > > > > > won't live in a small house.
> > > > > > > > > Ironically, a smaller house is one way to get a very nice=
PAB.
> > > > > > > > > > PAB is fun to play and dream with but for 99.99% of the=
population
> > > > > > > > > > that is all it is, a dream.
> > > > > > > > > You can believe whatever you want to believe.
> > > > > > > > I agree with Mr. Popcorn.
> > > > > > > > I designed a shed/shop and we built it, here's pix,
> > > > > > > >http://www.trak4.com/shed/index.html
> > > > > > > > An advantage of that system is many components (except roof
> > > > > > > > and piers) can be prefabed, such as floor, posts, beams and
> > > > > > > > walls can be done on a table.
> > > > > > > > Don't know if it's easy to scale to a classy house.
> > > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > > First off, both you guys need to get your heads straight on t=
he
> > > > > > > definition of terms, both of you are all over the map in that=
regard.
> > > > > > > Second, as far as cost is concerned, there is reality then th=
ere is
> > > > > > > the internet.
> > > > > > > Reality always has its way.
> > > > > > > If anyone is *seriously* considering post and beam constructi=
on I
> > > > > > > suggest they talk directly to someone locally that can provid=
e the
> > > > > > > materials and the craftsmanship to fabricate and assemble the=
parts
> > > > > > > involved and have that person give you a primer on ALL of the=
costs
> > > > > > > involved.
> > > > > > > Otherwise, keep dreaming.
> > > > > > > Hell, using ya'lls definition of post and beam, the deck I bu=
ilt can
> > > > > > > be called that.
> > > > > > > I mean, it has posts and it has beams........
> > > > > > > Welcome to Euphemasia, where nobody means what they mean.
> > > > > > Knock knock, anybody home?
> > > > > > I supplied a typical P&B construction with some pix above.
> > > > > > The posts are 4x4+, the beams 4x16 (hollow), and provide all
> > > > > > the headers respecting the roof joists/trusses.
> > > > > > I pretty much had the Bill of Materials nailed within 10%.
> > > > > > Into each segment was installed customized walls, built on
> > > > > > 4x8 benches, neat accurate and easy.
> > > > > > Ken
> > > > > In Richards words, those things are *sticks*, not post and beam l=
ike
> > > > > he showed in his drawing and what is normally referred to as Post=
&
> > > > > Beam construction.
> > > > > Hell, all stick built homes have the stuff you mentioned, but its=
a
> > > > > rare home that has Post & Beam construction.
> > > > > As far as your cost estimate goes, thats pretty easy when the cos=
ts
> > > > > are already known.
> > > > > Everything I've built so far has been within a few cents of what =
I
> > > > > figured because I called the suppliers up first and got the numbe=
rs
> > > > > and my labor was free.
> > > > > Labor is the difficult part to figure the cost of when outside he=
lp is
> > > > > required.
> > > > > Post and Beam construction, like Richard has been talking about h=
as
> > > > > huge labor costs not to mention things like cranes, come-a-longs =
and
> > > > > outright muscle to get the things in place properly.
> > > > I (we) faced the 4x4's with 2x4's , thereby avoiding large posts,
> > > > IIRC the 2x4's were load bearing in some cases, such as the
> > > > floor beams, and gave some heft to the roof support, that was
> > > > rated for deep snow, 1 foot of ice, 11" water, it was built to
> > > > withstand Muskoka's harshest winters, ~ 10' accumulated snow.
> > > > The result looked like P&B, functioned like P&B and quacked
> > > > like P&B, so maybe it's pseudo (fake) P&B, it wasn't standard
> > > > Western construction we all know and love.
> > > > Ken
> > > Yes, it was standard stick built construction and there's no shame in
> > > that.
> > > Its affordable, very strong and if done properly meets all codes.
> > This is a bit semantical, I presume the term "standard stick"
> > implies 'Western Construction' , well the P&B we did needed
> > different engineering than simple WC.
> > Heres some of the story: I spec'd a 12x24 shop on swampy ground,
> > that would have a tendency to heave cuz of frost, so the posts were
> > built on threaded rods so the nuts could be used for seasonal
> > leveling.
> > =A0The design's were done and construction began, but then wifey
> > ordered a 16x24 addition to the front, (that's the part you see in the
> > last photo with the doors open). So I agreed to build that addition
> > using
> > the P&B method, still on swampy ground, it's not WC, cuz of the
> > foundation requirements.
> > For example, the P&B design enabled two 8x8 doors to be opened to
> > air the shop, south exposed, and another east door for cross vent,
> > which was nice when painting or building saw dust.
> > P&B has a differerent engineering than WC. WC has dedicated headers
> > but the P&B (I did) has full headers on the perimeter and interior
> > walls,
> > so one can remove a wall, mod it, and/or replace it, something that
> > can't
> > easily be done using standard WC.
> > Ken
> Lots of sites have *conditions* that are less than ideal and the
> experienced framer will deal with it accordingly using the design
> basics and any required engineering. I've seen threaded rods 30' long
> from the top plate of the 3rd floor to the pin footings and perimeter
> beam under the existing grade and this is all normal stuff or what you
> refer to as WC. Quite frankly, I don't even know what qualifies as
> abnormal as far as framing construction goes. BTW: Much of this stuff
> was on islands without roads leading to them so the framers had to be
> especially cunning because the big box was not right around the corner
> to bail them out. The barge dropped the lumber and the hardware on the
> beach and the doods just got r done, whatever it took, and always
> exceeded the code inspectors wrath. The stuff in Richards pretty pix
> is much more extensive all the way around.

I'm getting some blurring on the definitions of things, both online
and in the books I have at home.
For example, in one of my books, their concept of P&B has no apparent
wood joinery (they call stuff with that, 'timber frame'); while I've
read timber-frame as used to describe stick-builts using wood studs,
whose joinery seems to be nails and/or metal brackets. As far as I
understand; studs are "posts" that generally rely on nail-joinery and
wall-sheets for lateral stiffness/support; while posts in P&B
structures rely on brackets and wood mortise-and-tenon or metal brace/
bracket/bolt joinery.

Inspired by one of Rico's comments a month or 2 ago, I figured that if
Don, was an artificial intelligence floating around the net, an
emergent being from an autonomous, self-learning/replicating "virus
bot" released at the dawn of the internet, I might be able to somehow
initiate a summons for his specific consciousness, and see if I could
pull in some clearer results.
Seems AI still has a long way to go... Although he could still be one
and maybe the scientists of long ago and no one else for that matter
just haven't realized it yet. Except maybe Rico.
(That might explain some of my spam)

So until further clarification, I will try to refer to any "wood-
joinery post-and-beam skeletal framework" construction, no matter the
size of the timbers, as 'Timberframe Post-&-Beam' (TP&B).

Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on September 15, 2009, 1:18 pm


> wrote:
> > > creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
ote:
> > > > > > > creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > > On Sep 3, 1:08=A0am, "Ken S. Tucker" <dynam...@vianet.on.ca=
> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > On Aug 31, 10:14=A0pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creati=
ve1...@gmail.com>
> > > > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 31, 1:02=A0am, Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut <glome=
...@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > On Aug 29, 2:36 pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creat=
ive1...@gmail.com>
> > > > > > > > > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Oh ya, and you can also take many PAB frames
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > apart and rebuild/re-use them, and they last lo=
ng.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Depends.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > I went down to Bedford a couple weeks ago to look=
at a 19th century
> > > > > > > > > > > > > barn someone was giving away and decided it wasn'=
t worth the effort.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The elements had gotten to the structure and prio=
r to that the animals
> > > > > > > > > > > > > had given it a thorough thrashing.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Imagine a century of cows chewing on stuff.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Some of the upper structure, the hay mow <sp> was=
salvageable but the
> > > > > > > > > > > > > guy said take all of it or none of it, so I walke=
d.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > 15 years ago I helped a guy in Kentucky disassemb=
le an 18th century
> > > > > > > > > > > > > real log cabin (18" wide logs, square cut, double=
dovetail) and
> > > > > > > > > > > > > transport it to West Virginia and reconstruct it.=
What a job.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Analyzing old wood is a science and I'm in kinder=
garten.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > I pounded a steel drift into the center of a 12"x=
12" column and it
> > > > > > > > > > > > > went all the way in with little effort.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Not good.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > In fact, I had to use another drift to pound the =
first one all the way
> > > > > > > > > > > > > through and out the other side to get it out.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > On another one, more toward the center of the bui=
lding, the drift
> > > > > > > > > > > > > bounced off the surface of the column, it was sol=
id maple.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > I like the look of the stuff, the post and beam, =
where, like you said,
> > > > > > > > > > > > > the craftsmanship becomes the art of the thing, a=
nd a constant
> > > > > > > > > > > > > reminder of the effort involved, not to mention t=
he cost.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > The harder the wood, the easier to work.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Logs interest me less than PAB's, but maybe slightl=
y more than sticks.
> > > > > > > > > > > > I have a problem with the idea of many kinds of sti=
cks, unless for
> > > > > > > > > > > > smaller-scale homes, in which case, their scale ren=
ders their stick-
> > > > > > > > > > > > structure more like PAB anyway, and that's how they=
might do well to
> > > > > > > > > > > > be approached.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Post-and-beams (what I prefer to call them, over 't=
imberframes') are
> > > > > > > > > > > > probably cheaper in the long run, and maybe even in=
the short too, if
> > > > > > > > > > > > you factor in many other things that some people do=
n't seem to
> > > > > > > > > > > > consider.
> > > > > > > > > > > > (And there is value to be had beyond mere money).
> > > > > > > > > > > > All things out of consideration, however, they're s=
till not that much
> > > > > > > > > > > > more expensive than sticks, and so still worth it f=
or what you get,
> > > > > > > > > > > > which is far more.
> > > > > > > > > > > > Another thing is whether PAB's (at least their fram=
es, bents and/or
> > > > > > > > > > > > sections) are (more) conducive to being prefabbed o=
ffsite; if a
> > > > > > > > > > > > shorter time is needed to build them once onsite (a=
nd even in total);
> > > > > > > > > > > > and if there is less environmental impact to the si=
te.
> > > > > > > > > > > Oh dear.
> > > > > > > > > > > No slam, but where did you get the idea that PAB wasn=
't much more
> > > > > > > > > > > expensive than sticks, assuming you mean 2x studs?
> > > > > > > > > > > Large chunks of lumber are HUGELY expensive in themse=
lves, the labor
> > > > > > > > > > > for the joinery is very expensive and the erection of=
the heavy timers
> > > > > > > > > > > is very expensive as well. And get this, all of it is=
purely cosmetic!
> > > > > > > > > > I'm talking about structural post and beam, as opposed =
to cosmetic,
> > > > > > > > > > and have seen a few quotes online of 10%-15% more expen=
sive in total
> > > > > > > > > > for the finished house, if I read correctly.
> > > > > > > > > > The actual PAB frame alone is a little more expensive, =
but I'm still
> > > > > > > > > > getting 30%-35%.
> > > > > > > > > > > There is no structural reason to warrant large timber=
s for home
> > > > > > > > > > > construction.
> > > > > > > > > > To me there is and there are other reasons too.
> > > > > > > > > > From what I'm learning, they last a very long time; are=
reusable
> > > > > > > > > > (recyclable); may be able to handle fires better (large=
r diameter
> > > > > > > > > > timbers); are cost-effective over the long run; create =
better spaces;
> > > > > > > > > > are good for earthquakes and hurricanes; are preferred =
by many people
> > > > > > > > > > from an aesthetic/spiritual/historic/natural standpoint=
(and therefore
> > > > > > > > > > may have better intrinsic, social, lasting and/or resal=
e/rental
> > > > > > > > > > value); and maybe more reasons too.
> > > > > > > > > > > Here's a pretty accurate rule of thumb for residentia=
l construction
> > > > > > > > > > > using conventional method.
> > > > > > > > > > > Materials =3D $X
> > > > > > > > > > > Labor =3D 2x $X
> > > > > > > > > > > For PAB I'd guess the cost is:
> > > > > > > > > > My clients want more than guesswork.
> > > > > > > > > > > Material =3D 4x $X
> > > > > > > > > > > Labor =3D 4x $X
> > > > > > > > > > > And I'm probably too conservative.
> > > > > > > > > > > Further, you still have to use sticks or some such ot=
her filler
> > > > > > > > > > > material between the PAB's.
> > > > > > > > > > I have seen a PAB design in the book 'The House You Bui=
ld', by Duo
> > > > > > > > > > Dickinson, that apparently has the external walls away =
from the posts
> > > > > > > > > > and beams (which is what I like-- the idea that you can=
swing
> > > > > > > > > > completely around an "external" post from the inside), =
so that there's
> > > > > > > > > > no, or less, infill required. I don't yet know how they=
made the walls
> > > > > > > > > > though. Perhaps SIP's or 2x4's and some windows.
> > > > > > > > > > > There's a reason why you never see small PAB homes.
> > > > > > > > > > I already have online. I've seen all kinds of sizes, fr=
om sheds and
> > > > > > > > > > cabins on up to timber-processing factories made of PAB=
s.
> > > > > > > > > > > Almost all of them are large because the people that =
can afford them
> > > > > > > > > > > won't live in a small house.
> > > > > > > > > > Ironically, a smaller house is one way to get a very ni=
ce PAB.
> > > > > > > > > > > PAB is fun to play and dream with but for 99.99% of t=
he population
> > > > > > > > > > > that is all it is, a dream.
> > > > > > > > > > You can believe whatever you want to believe.
> > > > > > > > > I agree with Mr. Popcorn.
> > > > > > > > > I designed a shed/shop and we built it, here's pix,
> > > > > > > > >http://www.trak4.com/shed/index.html
> > > > > > > > > An advantage of that system is many components (except ro=
of
> > > > > > > > > and piers) can be prefabed, such as floor, posts, beams a=
nd
> > > > > > > > > walls can be done on a table.
> > > > > > > > > Don't know if it's easy to scale to a classy house.
> > > > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > > > First off, both you guys need to get your heads straight on=
the
> > > > > > > > definition of terms, both of you are all over the map in th=
at regard.
> > > > > > > > Second, as far as cost is concerned, there is reality then =
there is
> > > > > > > > the internet.
> > > > > > > > Reality always has its way.
> > > > > > > > If anyone is *seriously* considering post and beam construc=
tion I
> > > > > > > > suggest they talk directly to someone locally that can prov=
ide the
> > > > > > > > materials and the craftsmanship to fabricate and assemble t=
he parts
> > > > > > > > involved and have that person give you a primer on ALL of t=
he costs
> > > > > > > > involved.
> > > > > > > > Otherwise, keep dreaming.
> > > > > > > > Hell, using ya'lls definition of post and beam, the deck I =
built can
> > > > > > > > be called that.
> > > > > > > > I mean, it has posts and it has beams........
> > > > > > > > Welcome to Euphemasia, where nobody means what they mean.
> > > > > > > Knock knock, anybody home?
> > > > > > > I supplied a typical P&B construction with some pix above.
> > > > > > > The posts are 4x4+, the beams 4x16 (hollow), and provide all
> > > > > > > the headers respecting the roof joists/trusses.
> > > > > > > I pretty much had the Bill of Materials nailed within 10%.
> > > > > > > Into each segment was installed customized walls, built on
> > > > > > > 4x8 benches, neat accurate and easy.
> > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > In Richards words, those things are *sticks*, not post and beam=
like
> > > > > > he showed in his drawing and what is normally referred to as Po=
st &
> > > > > > Beam construction.
> > > > > > Hell, all stick built homes have the stuff you mentioned, but i=
ts a
> > > > > > rare home that has Post & Beam construction.
> > > > > > As far as your cost estimate goes, thats pretty easy when the c=
osts
> > > > > > are already known.
> > > > > > Everything I've built so far has been within a few cents of wha=
t I
> > > > > > figured because I called the suppliers up first and got the num=
bers
> > > > > > and my labor was free.
> > > > > > Labor is the difficult part to figure the cost of when outside =
help is
> > > > > > required.
> > > > > > Post and Beam construction, like Richard has been talking about=
has
> > > > > > huge labor costs not to mention things like cranes, come-a-long=
s and
> > > > > > outright muscle to get the things in place properly.
> > > > > I (we) faced the 4x4's with 2x4's , thereby avoiding large posts,
> > > > > IIRC the 2x4's were load bearing in some cases, such as the
> > > > > floor beams, and gave some heft to the roof support, that was
> > > > > rated for deep snow, 1 foot of ice, 11" water, it was built to
> > > > > withstand Muskoka's harshest winters, ~ 10' accumulated snow.
> > > > > The result looked like P&B, functioned like P&B and quacked
> > > > > like P&B, so maybe it's pseudo (fake) P&B, it wasn't standard
> > > > > Western construction we all know and love.
> > > > > Ken
> > > > Yes, it was standard stick built construction and there's no shame =
in
> > > > that.
> > > > Its affordable, very strong and if done properly meets all codes.
> > > This is a bit semantical, I presume the term "standard stick"
> > > implies 'Western Construction' , well the P&B we did needed
> > > different engineering than simple WC.
> > > Heres some of the story: I spec'd a 12x24 shop on swampy ground,
> > > that would have a tendency to heave cuz of frost, so the posts were
> > > built on threaded rods so the nuts could be used for seasonal
> > > leveling.
> > > =A0The design's were done and construction began, but then wifey
> > > ordered a 16x24 addition to the front, (that's the part you see in th=
e
> > > last photo with the doors open). So I agreed to build that addition
> > > using
> > > the P&B method, still on swampy ground, it's not WC, cuz of the
> > > foundation requirements.
> > > For example, the P&B design enabled two 8x8 doors to be opened to
> > > air the shop, south exposed, and another east door for cross vent,
> > > which was nice when painting or building saw dust.
> > > P&B has a differerent engineering than WC. WC has dedicated headers
> > > but the P&B (I did) has full headers on the perimeter and interior
> > > walls,
> > > so one can remove a wall, mod it, and/or replace it, something that
> > > can't
> > > easily be done using standard WC.
> > > Ken
> > Lots of sites have *conditions* that are less than ideal and the
> > experienced framer will deal with it accordingly using the design
> > basics and any required engineering. I've seen threaded rods 30' long
> > from the top plate of the 3rd floor to the pin footings and perimeter
> > beam under the existing grade and this is all normal stuff or what you
> > refer to as WC. Quite frankly, I don't even know what qualifies as
> > abnormal as far as framing construction goes. BTW: Much of this stuff
> > was on islands without roads leading to them so the framers had to be
> > especially cunning because the big box was not right around the corner
> > to bail them out. The barge dropped the lumber and the hardware on the
> > beach and the doods just got r done, whatever it took, and always
> > exceeded the code inspectors wrath. The stuff in Richards pretty pix
> > is much more extensive all the way around.
> I'm getting some blurring on the definitions of things, both online
> and in the books I have at home.
> For example, in one of my books, their concept of P&B has no apparent
> wood joinery (they call stuff with that, 'timber frame'); while I've
> read timber-frame as used to describe stick-builts using wood studs,
> whose joinery seems to be nails and/or metal brackets. As far as I
> understand; studs are "posts" that generally rely on nail-joinery and
> wall-sheets for lateral stiffness/support; while posts in P&B
> structures rely on brackets and wood mortise-and-tenon or metal brace/
> bracket/bolt joinery.
> Inspired by one of Rico's comments a month or 2 ago, I figured that if
> Don, was an artificial intelligence floating around the net, an
> emergent being from an autonomous, self-learning/replicating "virus
> bot" released at the dawn of the internet, I might be able to somehow
> initiate a summons for his specific consciousness, and see if I could
> pull in some clearer results.
> Seems AI still has a long way to go... Although he could still be one
> and maybe the scientists of long ago and no one else for that matter
> just haven't realized it yet. Except maybe Rico.
> (That might explain some of my spam)
> So until further clarification, I will try to refer to any "wood-
> joinery post-and-beam skeletal framework" construction, no matter the
> size of the timbers, as 'Timberframe Post-&-Beam' (TP&B).

I believe you and I, inspite of what others have to say, understood
what post & beam construction is.
You, by way of your posted drawings.
I, by way of my explanations of the terminology and reference to my
experience.
If you search the web long enough you'll find just about any and every
thing, until you're right back where you started.
I mentioned this about 2 years ago as something I learned while
editing a book on this topic.
The massive amounts of information on the web and the inability of
many people to determine whats right and wrong.
If you and I decide brown is blue and 7 is 44 we can still have a
conversation with that common understanding.
But if either of us does not agree implicitly then the conversation is
ruined.

Posted by =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Se=F1ior_Popcor on September 16, 2009, 2:23 am


wrote:
> > I'm getting some blurring on the definitions of things, both online
> > and in the books I have at home.
> > For example, in one of my books, their concept of P&B has no apparent
> > wood joinery (they call stuff with that, 'timber frame'); while I've
> > read timber-frame as used to describe stick-builts using wood studs,
> > whose joinery seems to be nails and/or metal brackets. As far as I
> > understand; studs are "posts" that generally rely on nail-joinery and
> > wall-sheets for lateral stiffness/support; while posts in P&B
> > structures rely on brackets and wood mortise-and-tenon or metal brace/
> > bracket/bolt joinery.
> > Inspired by one of Rico's comments a month or 2 ago, I figured that if
> > Don, was an artificial intelligence floating around the net, an
> > emergent being from an autonomous, self-learning/replicating "virus
> > bot" released at the dawn of the internet, I might be able to somehow
> > initiate a summons for his specific consciousness, and see if I could
> > pull in some clearer results.
> > Seems AI still has a long way to go... Although he could still be one
> > and maybe the scientists of long ago and no one else for that matter
> > just haven't realized it yet. Except maybe Rico.
> > (That might explain some of my spam)
> > So until further clarification, I will try to refer to any "wood-
> > joinery post-and-beam skeletal framework" construction, no matter the
> > size of the timbers, as 'Timberframe Post-&-Beam' (TP&B).
> I believe you and I, inspite of what others have to say, understood
> what post & beam construction is.
> You, by way of your posted drawings.
> I, by way of my explanations of the terminology and reference to my
> experience.
> If you search the web long enough you'll find just about any and every
> thing, until you're right back where you started.
> I mentioned this about 2 years ago as something I learned while
> editing a book on this topic.
> The massive amounts of information on the web and the inability of
> many people to determine whats right and wrong.
> If you and I decide brown is blue and 7 is 44 we can still have a
> conversation with that common understanding.
> But if either of us does not agree implicitly then the conversation is
> ruined.

Fair enough. Let's just have fun and chat. Life's too short. :)

Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on September 18, 2009, 6:16 pm


Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut> wrote:
> Fair enough. Let's just have fun and chat. Life's too short. :)

While we're on the topic of wood, there is another venue I have been
persuing with wanton abandon.
Vintage furniture refinishing and restoration.
I've already embarked on it and the going is sort of slow.
Currently on the bench is an 19th century floor lamp and a 18th
century spinning wheel.
Both were in drastic shape and some might say unsalvageable but I like
impossible challenges.
Both have been reduced to the lowest common denominator and are in
various states of disarray right now.
I have maybe 20 hours into each thus far.
The lamp will be a hybrid from various era's and the spinning wheel
will be true to form, at least as true as my research allows.
Parts are missing from the spinning wheel and I am making them from
scratch from wood I have harvested here on our land and air dryed in
the workshop.
I have quite a bit of raw wood stored and stacked.
I have an FLW looking square tiffany style lamp shade from the 20's
that will go on this lamp and it is in shades of browns thru ivorys
with some orange and yellow accents. And I hand turned a piece of
spalted hickory on the lathe in the shape of a 3" acorn that will go
on the top as a finial. The shaft of the lamp is a conventional
colonial style and it currently has a new chestnut stain that looks
mahvelous and some of the turned areas will be accented with a cream
colored enamel and then the whole thing will receive multiple coats of
satin poly, hand rubbed with 4/0 steel wool between coats. The
hardware is bright brass. Oh yeah, I also had to turn another piece of
hickory for the transistion from old lamp wood to new lamp hardware
and that turned out pretty good too. Did you know pure rubbing alcohol
will dissolve 300 year old hide glue? I'm gonna put the lamp in this
antique store over in Edinburg with a $400 price tag on it and see
what happens.
BTW: Get me your mailing address and I'll send you one of my custom
pen creations. I sent 2 to Ken and wifey a couple months ago and they
liked em. I do them a little differently than most other people do, of
course! I've made about 300 of them so far and have them for sale on
various sites but I mainly just give them away to family and friends.
I just like makin' em. Doing lathe stuff is like therapy.


Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on September 20, 2009, 4:35 pm


> creative1...@gmail.com wrote:
> > Se=F1ior Popcorn-Coconut> wrote:
> > > Fair enough. Let's just have fun and chat. Life's too short. :)
> > While we're on the topic of wood, there is another venue I have been
> > persuing with wanton abandon.
> > Vintage furniture refinishing and restoration.
> > I've already embarked on it and the going is sort of slow.
> > Currently on the bench is an 19th century floor lamp and a 18th
> > century spinning wheel.
> > Both were in drastic shape and some might say unsalvageable but I like
> > impossible challenges.
> > Both have been reduced to the lowest common denominator and are in
> > various states of disarray right now.
> > I have maybe 20 hours into each thus far.
> > The lamp will be a hybrid from various era's and the spinning wheel
> > will be true to form, at least as true as my research allows.
> > Parts are missing from the spinning wheel and I am making them from
> > scratch from wood I have harvested here on our land and air dryed in
> > the workshop.
> > I have quite a bit of raw wood stored and stacked.
> > I have an FLW looking square tiffany style lamp shade from the 20's
> > that will go on this lamp and it is in shades of browns thru ivorys
> > with some orange and yellow accents. And I hand turned a piece of
> > spalted hickory on the lathe in the shape of a 3" acorn that will go
> > on the top as a finial. The shaft of the lamp is a conventional
> > colonial style and it currently has a new chestnut stain that looks
> > mahvelous and some of the turned areas will be accented with a cream
> > colored enamel and then the whole thing will receive multiple coats of
> > satin poly, hand rubbed with 4/0 steel wool between coats. The
> > hardware is bright brass. Oh yeah, I also had to turn another piece of
> > hickory for the transistion from old lamp wood to new lamp hardware
> > and that turned out pretty good too. Did you know pure rubbing alcohol
> > will dissolve 300 year old hide glue? I'm gonna put the lamp in this
> > antique store over in Edinburg with a $400 price tag on it and see
> > what happens.
> > BTW: Get me your mailing address and I'll send you one of my custom
> > pen creations. I sent 2 to Ken and wifey a couple months ago and they
> > liked em. I do them a little differently than most other people do, of
> > course! I've made about 300 of them so far and have them for sale on
> > various sites but I mainly just give them away to family and friends.
> > I just like makin' em. Doing lathe stuff is like therapy.
> When 1st married, partly from economics, we collected lots of
> antiques, cleaned them up, painted them, and they worked good.
> Mostly from the 30's - 60's, my fav's were big crafted radio-TV
> cabinets, some had phono's, bars, album cabinet, also antique
> desks. To get rid of the units we'd put them out to the curb, and
> they were gone in about an hour, or just give them away.
> Now we build our own antiques cuz they're newer, but try to
> keep a 'retro' feel to them.
> Ken
> PS: Pen's is beauts!

Saw one of them 40's radios recently but it was fully restored and
expensive.
Gonna keep my eyed peeled for one in disrepair.
Lots of little antique/junk places around here and we've made it a
habit to patrol them when we see them.
This lamp I'm working on is a floor lamp and was previously refinished
by someone that had no business doing so.
The did a poor job of restoring the raw wood, then put a heavy dark
stain on it and then poly'd the whole thing.
Its very difficult to get poly off without taking some of the wood
surface off too, requires a careful touch and a precise eye.
I have neither, so its been fun.
I'm flying by the seat and there have been many errors and many
readjustments in end game plans but all in all its working out nice.
I want to find one of them old fashioned cloth covered cords rather
than the plastic stuff that is the norm today, I think that'll make a
cool touch.
Did I ever send you a pik of that acorn I turned awhile back out of
spalted hickory?
I'm going to modify it for the finial on the very top.
This thing should top out at about 60" high when its all said and
done.
I'll send you a pik when its all done and ready for presentation.
Then, on to that old spinnin wheel.......

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