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Re: Building a patio with brick Michael \(LS\) 10-22-2007
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Posted by Michael \(LS\) on October 22, 2007, 10:58 pm

>
> > Building a patio with brick
> >
> > Building a patio with brick is probably the easiest way to accomplish
> > a patio project. It is easy for the do it yourselfer and can be very
> > elegant.
> >
> > Measure out the area you have in mind and start. If you're a first
> > timer, then it is probably best to have a rectangular design, although
> > a circular one is also possible, but you would have to start cutting
> > bricks. Make sure your angles are correct. While this is very
> > important, also keep in mind that you will need two inches on the
> > edges to place brick edging.
> > (continued at
> >
http://building-materials.blogspot.com/2007/10/building-patio-with-brick.html
> > )
>
> Brick edging, huh?
> Here's the deal, if you lay brick in sand you'll never stop them from
moving
> unless you install a PT wood stop around the entire outside edge.
> If you don't do that someone can step on an edge brick and it may shift.
> Further, rain will cause the underlying sand to wash out and then you'll
> have a real mess.
> Now, if you go through the trouble of installed the PT wood stop around
the
> edge you may as well use it for a form and pour concrete.
> Then you can install brick surface pavers right on top of the concrete and
> have a custom, professional job that will last a lifetime.
>
>

Rather than use PT wood for the stop, use "brick edging" or "paver edging"
(see: http://paragonpavers.tripod.com/patiobasics.htm)
The edging is spiked into the ground to prevent shifting. The problem with
pavers over concrete (at least in colder climates with freeze/thaw heaving)
is that the concrete pad needs to have expansion joints and the slab
sections may heave unequally resulting in a sizable "lip" from one paver to
the next (not to mention the "rocking" of all the pavers that cover the
joints). Pavers are great with ground movement because, while 5 years from
not the patio may not be flat but more "bowed", it's still usable and
generally looks nicer than a split & heaved concrete patio. Now, all that
being said, proper ground/sub-base prep can eliminate most (but not all)
heaving issues.

Michael (LS)




Posted by Warm Worm on October 23, 2007, 2:49 pm
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > Building a patio with brick
>
> > > Building a patio with brick is probably the easiest way to accomplish
> > > a patio project. It is easy for the do it yourselfer and can be very
> > > elegant.
>
> > > Measure out the area you have in mind and start. If you're a first
> > > timer, then it is probably best to have a rectangular design, although
> > > a circular one is also possible, but you would have to start cutting
> > > bricks. Make sure your angles are correct. While this is very
> > > important, also keep in mind that you will need two inches on the
> > > edges to place brick edging.
> > > (continued at
>
> http://building-materials.blogspot.com/2007/10/building-patio-with-br...
>
>
>
>
>
> > > )
>
> > Brick edging, huh?
> > Here's the deal, if you lay brick in sand you'll never stop them from
> moving
> > unless you install a PT wood stop around the entire outside edge.
> > If you don't do that someone can step on an edge brick and it may shift.
> > Further, rain will cause the underlying sand to wash out and then you'll
> > have a real mess.
> > Now, if you go through the trouble of installed the PT wood stop around
> the
> > edge you may as well use it for a form and pour concrete.
> > Then you can install brick surface pavers right on top of the concrete and
> > have a custom, professional job that will last a lifetime.
>
> Rather than use PT wood for the stop, use "brick edging" or "paver edging"
> (see:http://paragonpavers.tripod.com/patiobasics.htm)
> The edging is spiked into the ground to prevent shifting. The problem with
> pavers over concrete (at least in colder climates with freeze/thaw heaving)
> is that the concrete pad needs to have expansion joints and the slab
> sections may heave unequally resulting in a sizable "lip" from one paver to
> the next (not to mention the "rocking" of all the pavers that cover the
> joints). Pavers are great with ground movement because, while 5 years from
> not the patio may not be flat but more "bowed", it's still usable and
> generally looks nicer than a split & heaved concrete patio. Now, all that
> being said, proper ground/sub-base prep can eliminate most (but not all)
> heaving issues.
>
> Michael (LS)- Hide quoted text -

How about just leave the soil/where the patio is to be as-is, and hunt
around and collect some naturally-flat stones and lay them down like a
mosaic, leaving some grass to grow in-between? If they heave from
frost, etc., maybe it'll just add character.


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