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Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on December 1, 2009, 10:37 pm
show/hide quoted text
> wrote:
> > > On Nov 29, 11:55 am, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative1...@gmail.com=
> > > wrote:
> > > > > On Nov 28, 9:07 pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative1...@gmail.=
com>
> > > > > wrote:
te:
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > [big snip]
> > > > > > > > > > > Where do you want to build it?
> > > > > > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > > > > > Unsure yet, but what do you have in mind? (i.e., co-own=
ership of the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > > > project)
> > > > > > > > > WW, It's your play Shakespear, I'd consider a minority po=
sition.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > Fair enough. Compensation? And would you be able/willing to=
travel?
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > I (we) find the hard part of doing a highly innovative custom=
ized
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > product, including the homes you're considering, to be ~ 80%
> > > > > > > study, and R&D. then with a ball-park idea of what you want,
> > > > > > > selecting the location and then the lot, that's your personal
> > > > > > > decision. From that we get the weather and an idea of code.
> > > > > > > Recall we're in the Oky valley BC, so it depends on your drea=
> > > > > > > location.
> > > > > > > > > We have extra property, I'm going to build a 100 sq ft jo=
b to put
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > > a 'still' in to make booze about 8x12 interior, must be h=
ygenic.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > I want to do that too. I might be your "customer" until I c=
an sort
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > mine out, as I'm a fan of vodka. We could do different kind=
s for
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > exchanges and "rum-runs". ;)
> > > > > > > Ok, potato ferment it is :-).
> > > > > > > > > How would you do the floor?
> > > > > > > > Of your still? Or the straw-bale post-and-beam-timber-frame=
home
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > (PABTF)?
> > > > > > > Well I avoid stucco and plasters because of settlement issues=
> > > > > > > strong winds and quakes that can crack that stuff.
> > > > > > > > Unsure what's required for a still, but for the home, based=
on what I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > think I know so far, maybe level stone or concrete sill "pl=
atforms" or
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > "pedestals" (two or so per bent, with soil left alone in be=
tween?)
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > and a stone or concrete foundation perimeter. The bare insi=
de floor
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > could perhaps be a good hardwood or bamboo planks, or plywo=
od. An
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > earthen floor should be possible at ground level (unsure if=
it makes
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > sense to have it upstairs). I seem to recall reading somewh=
ere that
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > "in-floor"-style or radiant heating is better placed in the=
walls
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > rather than the floors... although I know that water lines =
are no good
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > within straw bales due to the potential extra problems shou=
ld they
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > leak there.
> > > > > > > Yes, and extra care would be electrically required.
> > > > > > > > Today, I read a little more about girts, bents, purlins, su=
mmers,
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > various PABTF joints, as well as light straw clay walls (os=
tensibly a
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > kind of rammed-earth-style way to do walls using clay slip =
[watery
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > clay] lightly tossed with straw as the ingredients rammed i=
nto the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > forms) Very nice when they remove the form and you see the =
relatively
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > smooth solid wall and its straw texture. That should also w=
ork indoors
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > as far as I can tell and look good with "whitewall" plaster=
finish.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > We use numerous barriers to insects getting in, and also make
> > > > > > > sure what we have is easy to clean.
> > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > Come spring I'll be starting 2 brand new large scale projects, =
> > > > > > least large as far as I'm concerned.
> > > > > > I'm gutting the kitchen in our house, and I'm going to start my=
*off
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > grid* sustainable, modular dwelling. I think I have all the bug=
> > > > > > worked out on paper finally and the only way to continue is by
> > > > > > actually putting it in use. Its a little larger than the 12'x16=
' I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > originally spoke with you about so the newest rendition will be
> > > > > > 16'x16' not including the external porches. I had to do quite a=
bit of
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > soul searching and *putting myself in the picture* to get a gra=
sp on
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > this new kind of lifestyle. Make no mistake, living off grid in=
> > > > > > *tiny home* IS a lifestyle choice all the way around. A choice =
I would
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > guess a majority of people today would be unwilling to take on.=
But I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > march to a different drum and always have and I'm the one swing=
ing the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > hammers. Ba-Doomph! My budget is open but I'm pretty certain I =
can
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > make this happen for less than $5k. The hope is that this proje=
ct will
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > be successful and complete by next fall, then I will start to s=
et up a
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > manufacturing facility to construct them in kit form that can b=
> > > > > > delivered by 2 flatbed trucks anywhere in the US. The trick in =
all of
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > this is many fold, 1st, to make the thing successful, 2nd, to m=
ake the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > thing modular so that it can be easily transported and assemble=
d and
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > 3rd, to make it affordable. On paper I have accomplished all 3.=
This
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > has been a 3 year research and design project so far and I can'=
t wait
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > to get physical with it. I've already started to assemble some =
of the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > mechanics of the thing.
> > > > > I'm lookin' around the 20x20 we inhabit and we've never had
> > > > > any feeling of compromise, it needs quality, and an organized
> > > > > approach, but that's the way things ought to be done anyway.
> > > > > (I find the bedroom a bit small, but wife threw me a curve and
> > > > > put in a small dining room table, yup she likes to eat in the
> > > > > bedroom).
> > > > > If you want, we'll have a look at your plan and comment if we
> > > > > can help.
> > > > > Ken
> > > > Compromise is not inherently a bad word.
> > > > Balance and evaluation are more in line with what I am talking abou=
> > > > For example, in a 16'x16' tiny home why would anyone want a standar=
> > > > 30" wide range when it uses valuable space and will most likely not=
be
show/hide quoted text
> > > > fully used?
> > > > We have a 4 burner glasstop and have never used all 4 burners at th=
> > > > same time, nor have we ever required the full cavity of the oven.
> > > > In our current house we will continue to keep our full size range f=
> > > > resale purposes but in the tiny house I am going to construct there
> > > > will be a 2 burner hotplate and a toaster oven (and a microwave), b=
oth
show/hide quoted text
> > > > of which can be stored when not in use. The list of *compromises* g=
oes
show/hide quoted text
> > > > on and on and thats why I said it takes a careful introspective to =
see
show/hide quoted text
> > > > how to design a tiny house efficiently. Have you seen a shower that
> > > > relies on the weight of the water to provide the pressure? They mak=
e 5
show/hide quoted text
> > > > gallon camping showers that work under the same principle. Now boos=
> > > > that water weight to 250 gallons and put it on the 2nd floor (insid=
> > > > the roof) and you start to get some decent pressure, plus your wate=
> > > > storage is not outside susceptible to the elements or nefarious
> > > > entities. It starts by understanding how the occupants intend to us=
> > > > the space. In a tiny house living doesn't have to mean just survivi=
> > > > though a web search indicates just that. Lots of people have design=
> > > > tiny houses but none have yet designed one that is long term liveab=
le.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > After numerous test runs I'm pretty much convinced 16'x16' is the
> > > > minimal size that one or two people can live in and be totally off =
the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > grid.
> > > We have a toaster, and otherwise use an electric frying pan.
> > > The pan has excellent temp control so we put a pot on it for
> > > careful simmer. We also have a 2 burner hot plate, get one
> > > that's regulated. A big roasting pot spans both elements, and
> > > is at a convenient height, does a big birdy.
> > > For water pressure use this formula,
> > > "approximately 1 bar or 14.7 psi for every 33 feet or 10 meters of
> > > depth"
> > > from SCUBA diving. It's the height of the water that gives pressure.
> > > Off grid a fuel source will provide refrigeration,http://en.wikipedia=
.org/wiki/Absorption_refrigerator
show/hide quoted text
> > > even solar if you have sunshine, or wood burning.
> > > Cheers
> > > Ken
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling
> A friend of ours filed a patent to use the Peltier effect to cool
> kitty litter boxes.
> I'm not sure what you mean by "off grid", with your mention of
> hot-plates, microwaves and so forth.
> Where do you plan to get the energy?
> Ken
Primarily solar, but as a side interest I believe the weight of the
structure itself against gaia may produce some interesting benefits.
Also, back in the early 80's I did some patent drawings for an old
gent that came up with a conceptual way to extrapolate the benefits of
variances in air pressures spread out over vast areas, say 5 acres. It
intrigued me then and now might be a good time for me to revisit that
concept.
I believe there are a lot of natural ways out there involving physics
and climate for example that can be exploited.
I've always been amazed that one of the most amazing inventions in all
of history the personal computer is based on something so simple as
the most plentiful product on the earth, sand.
Everything we could ever need or want is already here but it is up to
us to make it what we need or want.
FWIW I've found ways to increase the output from off the shelf
photovoltaic panels so that they will put out 400% more juice than
they are rated for.
I'm going to reverse engineer a hotplate and make it require less
juice.
Something else in my line of sight is the inefficiency of deep cell
batteries.
Yes, I've been busy but plan to get busier. LOL
|
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Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on December 2, 2009, 4:44 pm
show/hide quoted text
> wrote:
> ...
> > > I'm not sure what you mean by "off grid", with your mention of
> > > hot-plates, microwaves and so forth.
> > > Where do you plan to get the energy?
> > > Ken
> > Primarily solar, but as a side interest I believe the weight of the
> > structure itself against gaia may produce some interesting benefits.
> > Also, back in the early 80's I did some patent drawings for an old
> > gent that came up with a conceptual way to extrapolate the benefits of
> > variances in air pressures spread out over vast areas, say 5 acres. It
> > intrigued me then and now might be a good time for me to revisit that
> > concept.
> > I believe there are a lot of natural ways out there involving physics
> > and climate for example that can be exploited.
> > I've always been amazed that one of the most amazing inventions in all
> > of history the personal computer is based on something so simple as
> > the most plentiful product on the earth, sand.
> > Everything we could ever need or want is already here but it is up to
> > us to make it what we need or want.
> > FWIW I've found ways to increase the output from off the shelf
> > photovoltaic panels so that they will put out 400% more juice than
> > they are rated for.
> I'd be interested in briefly how that's done, unless it's secret.
> > I'm going to reverse engineer a hotplate and make it require less
> > juice.
> > Something else in my line of sight is the inefficiency of deep cell
> > batteries.
> > Yes, I've been busy but plan to get busier. =A0LOL
> Looking forward.
> Ken
Boosting the output of a photovoltaic is easy, place a large fresnel
over top of it and surround it with mirrors.
However, that creates heat and heat is the killer so it must be
avoided or compensated somehow.
I have a plan for compensation.
1/8" copper tubing wound in amongst the solar cells to act as a
radiator to keep the cells cool and simultaneously provide me with hot
water.
Then theres the idea of mounting strips of solar cells on an angle to
each other, sort of like a venetian blind, and using prisms to
*bounce* the sunlight off of surrounding mirrors and through fresnels
to the surfaces of the cells. Again, heat build up is a concern but
easily remedied as I explained above.
I believe it is possible to get over 1000 watts out of the same
footprint that a standard 200 watt panel produces today, a 500%
increase in power, simply by designing and building it differently AND
getting beaucoup hot water for free. All of these things have already
been done, separately (pool heaters) but I want to put them all
together in a unified format.
Why can't the top of a deep cell battery have a removeable cover with
a proper compression seal so that the owner can monitor and replace
the plates as he sees fit? Currently, when one plate wears, the
negative pole, the whole battery must be replaced and they ain't
cheap. Further, the electron passage in batteries is pretty much willy
nilly, they go wherever they want to, why can't *guide rails* be
installed, corridors if you will, so the electrons can go directly to
their destinations? I believe batteries have a lot of improving to do
in their future as they are and have been very inefficient.
There are no questions, only answers.
|
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Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on December 1, 2009, 10:39 pm
show/hide quoted text
> wrote:
> > > On Nov 29, 11:55 am, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative1...@gmail.com=
> > > wrote:
> > > > > On Nov 28, 9:07 pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative1...@gmail.=
com>
> > > > > wrote:
te:
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > [big snip]
> > > > > > > > > > > Where do you want to build it?
> > > > > > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > > > > > Unsure yet, but what do you have in mind? (i.e., co-own=
ership of the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > > > project)
> > > > > > > > > WW, It's your play Shakespear, I'd consider a minority po=
sition.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > Fair enough. Compensation? And would you be able/willing to=
travel?
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > I (we) find the hard part of doing a highly innovative custom=
ized
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > product, including the homes you're considering, to be ~ 80%
> > > > > > > study, and R&D. then with a ball-park idea of what you want,
> > > > > > > selecting the location and then the lot, that's your personal
> > > > > > > decision. From that we get the weather and an idea of code.
> > > > > > > Recall we're in the Oky valley BC, so it depends on your drea=
> > > > > > > location.
> > > > > > > > > We have extra property, I'm going to build a 100 sq ft jo=
b to put
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > > a 'still' in to make booze about 8x12 interior, must be h=
ygenic.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > I want to do that too. I might be your "customer" until I c=
an sort
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > mine out, as I'm a fan of vodka. We could do different kind=
s for
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > exchanges and "rum-runs". ;)
> > > > > > > Ok, potato ferment it is :-).
> > > > > > > > > How would you do the floor?
> > > > > > > > Of your still? Or the straw-bale post-and-beam-timber-frame=
home
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > (PABTF)?
> > > > > > > Well I avoid stucco and plasters because of settlement issues=
> > > > > > > strong winds and quakes that can crack that stuff.
> > > > > > > > Unsure what's required for a still, but for the home, based=
on what I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > think I know so far, maybe level stone or concrete sill "pl=
atforms" or
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > "pedestals" (two or so per bent, with soil left alone in be=
tween?)
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > and a stone or concrete foundation perimeter. The bare insi=
de floor
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > could perhaps be a good hardwood or bamboo planks, or plywo=
od. An
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > earthen floor should be possible at ground level (unsure if=
it makes
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > sense to have it upstairs). I seem to recall reading somewh=
ere that
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > "in-floor"-style or radiant heating is better placed in the=
walls
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > rather than the floors... although I know that water lines =
are no good
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > within straw bales due to the potential extra problems shou=
ld they
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > leak there.
> > > > > > > Yes, and extra care would be electrically required.
> > > > > > > > Today, I read a little more about girts, bents, purlins, su=
mmers,
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > various PABTF joints, as well as light straw clay walls (os=
tensibly a
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > kind of rammed-earth-style way to do walls using clay slip =
[watery
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > clay] lightly tossed with straw as the ingredients rammed i=
nto the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > forms) Very nice when they remove the form and you see the =
relatively
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > smooth solid wall and its straw texture. That should also w=
ork indoors
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > > as far as I can tell and look good with "whitewall" plaster=
finish.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > > We use numerous barriers to insects getting in, and also make
> > > > > > > sure what we have is easy to clean.
> > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > Come spring I'll be starting 2 brand new large scale projects, =
> > > > > > least large as far as I'm concerned.
> > > > > > I'm gutting the kitchen in our house, and I'm going to start my=
*off
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > grid* sustainable, modular dwelling. I think I have all the bug=
> > > > > > worked out on paper finally and the only way to continue is by
> > > > > > actually putting it in use. Its a little larger than the 12'x16=
' I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > originally spoke with you about so the newest rendition will be
> > > > > > 16'x16' not including the external porches. I had to do quite a=
bit of
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > soul searching and *putting myself in the picture* to get a gra=
sp on
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > this new kind of lifestyle. Make no mistake, living off grid in=
> > > > > > *tiny home* IS a lifestyle choice all the way around. A choice =
I would
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > guess a majority of people today would be unwilling to take on.=
But I
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > march to a different drum and always have and I'm the one swing=
ing the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > hammers. Ba-Doomph! My budget is open but I'm pretty certain I =
can
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > make this happen for less than $5k. The hope is that this proje=
ct will
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > be successful and complete by next fall, then I will start to s=
et up a
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > manufacturing facility to construct them in kit form that can b=
> > > > > > delivered by 2 flatbed trucks anywhere in the US. The trick in =
all of
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > this is many fold, 1st, to make the thing successful, 2nd, to m=
ake the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > thing modular so that it can be easily transported and assemble=
d and
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > 3rd, to make it affordable. On paper I have accomplished all 3.=
This
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > has been a 3 year research and design project so far and I can'=
t wait
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > to get physical with it. I've already started to assemble some =
of the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > mechanics of the thing.
> > > > > I'm lookin' around the 20x20 we inhabit and we've never had
> > > > > any feeling of compromise, it needs quality, and an organized
> > > > > approach, but that's the way things ought to be done anyway.
> > > > > (I find the bedroom a bit small, but wife threw me a curve and
> > > > > put in a small dining room table, yup she likes to eat in the
> > > > > bedroom).
> > > > > If you want, we'll have a look at your plan and comment if we
> > > > > can help.
> > > > > Ken
> > > > Compromise is not inherently a bad word.
> > > > Balance and evaluation are more in line with what I am talking abou=
> > > > For example, in a 16'x16' tiny home why would anyone want a standar=
> > > > 30" wide range when it uses valuable space and will most likely not=
be
show/hide quoted text
> > > > fully used?
> > > > We have a 4 burner glasstop and have never used all 4 burners at th=
> > > > same time, nor have we ever required the full cavity of the oven.
> > > > In our current house we will continue to keep our full size range f=
> > > > resale purposes but in the tiny house I am going to construct there
> > > > will be a 2 burner hotplate and a toaster oven (and a microwave), b=
oth
show/hide quoted text
> > > > of which can be stored when not in use. The list of *compromises* g=
oes
show/hide quoted text
> > > > on and on and thats why I said it takes a careful introspective to =
see
show/hide quoted text
> > > > how to design a tiny house efficiently. Have you seen a shower that
> > > > relies on the weight of the water to provide the pressure? They mak=
e 5
show/hide quoted text
> > > > gallon camping showers that work under the same principle. Now boos=
> > > > that water weight to 250 gallons and put it on the 2nd floor (insid=
> > > > the roof) and you start to get some decent pressure, plus your wate=
> > > > storage is not outside susceptible to the elements or nefarious
> > > > entities. It starts by understanding how the occupants intend to us=
> > > > the space. In a tiny house living doesn't have to mean just survivi=
> > > > though a web search indicates just that. Lots of people have design=
> > > > tiny houses but none have yet designed one that is long term liveab=
le.
show/hide quoted text
> > > > After numerous test runs I'm pretty much convinced 16'x16' is the
> > > > minimal size that one or two people can live in and be totally off =
the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > grid.
> > > We have a toaster, and otherwise use an electric frying pan.
> > > The pan has excellent temp control so we put a pot on it for
> > > careful simmer. We also have a 2 burner hot plate, get one
> > > that's regulated. A big roasting pot spans both elements, and
> > > is at a convenient height, does a big birdy.
> > > For water pressure use this formula,
> > > "approximately 1 bar or 14.7 psi for every 33 feet or 10 meters of
> > > depth"
> > > from SCUBA diving. It's the height of the water that gives pressure.
> > > Off grid a fuel source will provide refrigeration,http://en.wikipedia=
.org/wiki/Absorption_refrigerator
show/hide quoted text
> > > even solar if you have sunshine, or wood burning.
> > > Cheers
> > > Ken
> >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling
> A friend of ours filed a patent to use the Peltier effect to cool
> kitty litter boxes.
> I'm not sure what you mean by "off grid", with your mention of
> hot-plates, microwaves and so forth.
> Where do you plan to get the energy?
> Ken
BTW, why would anyone want to cool kitty litter boxes?
Peltier =3D cold on one side, hot on the other side. Why not make house
walls that way, then reverse them when the seasons change?
|
|
Posted by Warm Worm on December 2, 2009, 1:25 am
show/hide quoted text
> wrote:
> > > [big snip]
> > > > > > > Where do you want to build it?
> > > > > > > Ken
> > > > > > Unsure yet, but what do you have in mind? (i.e., co-ownership o=
f the
show/hide quoted text
> > > > > > project)
> > > > > WW, It's your play Shakespear, I'd consider a minority position.
> > > > Fair enough. Compensation? And would you be able/willing to travel?
> > > I (we) find the hard part of doing a highly innovative customized
> > > product, including the homes you're considering, to be ~ 80%
> > > study, and R&D. then with a ball-park idea of what you want,
> > > selecting the location and then the lot, that's your personal
> > > decision. From that we get the weather and an idea of code.
> > > Recall we're in the Oky valley BC, so it depends on your dream
> > > location.
> > > > > We have extra property, I'm going to build a 100 sq ft job to put
> > > > > a 'still' in to make booze about 8x12 interior, must be hygenic.
> > > > I want to do that too. I might be your "customer" until I can sort
> > > > mine out, as I'm a fan of vodka. We could do different kinds for
> > > > exchanges and "rum-runs". ;)
> > > Ok, potato ferment it is :-).
> > > > > How would you do the floor?
> > > > Of your still? Or the straw-bale post-and-beam-timber-frame home
> > > > (PABTF)?
> > > Well I avoid stucco and plasters because of settlement issues,
> > > strong winds and quakes that can crack that stuff.
> > > > Unsure what's required for a still, but for the home, based on what=
> > > > think I know so far, maybe level stone or concrete sill "platforms"=
or
show/hide quoted text
> > > > "pedestals" (two or so per bent, with soil left alone in between?)
> > > > and a stone or concrete foundation perimeter. The bare inside floor
> > > > could perhaps be a good hardwood or bamboo planks, or plywood. An
> > > > earthen floor should be possible at ground level (unsure if it make=
> > > > sense to have it upstairs). I seem to recall reading somewhere that
> > > > "in-floor"-style or radiant heating is better placed in the walls
> > > > rather than the floors... although I know that water lines are no g=
ood
show/hide quoted text
> > > > within straw bales due to the potential extra problems should they
> > > > leak there.
> > > Yes, and extra care would be electrically required.
> > > > Today, I read a little more about girts, bents, purlins, summers,
> > > > various PABTF joints, as well as light straw clay walls (ostensibly=
> > > > kind of rammed-earth-style way to do walls using clay slip [watery
> > > > clay] lightly tossed with straw as the ingredients rammed into the
> > > > forms) Very nice when they remove the form and you see the relative=
> > > > smooth solid wall and its straw texture. That should also work indo=
ors
show/hide quoted text
> > > > as far as I can tell and look good with "whitewall" plaster finish.
> > > We use numerous barriers to insects getting in, and also make
> > > sure what we have is easy to clean.
> > > Ken
> > Come spring I'll be starting 2 brand new large scale projects, at
> > least large as far as I'm concerned.
> > I'm gutting the kitchen in our house, and I'm going to start my *off
> > grid* sustainable, modular dwelling. I think I have all the bugs
> > worked out on paper finally and the only way to continue is by
> > actually putting it in use. Its a little larger than the 12'x16' I
> > originally spoke with you about so the newest rendition will be
> > 16'x16' not including the external porches. I had to do quite a bit of
> > soul searching and *putting myself in the picture* to get a grasp on
> > this new kind of lifestyle. Make no mistake, living off grid in a
> > *tiny home* IS a lifestyle choice all the way around. A choice I would
> > guess a majority of people today would be unwilling to take on. But I
> > march to a different drum and always have and I'm the one swinging the
> > hammers. Ba-Doomph! My budget is open but I'm pretty certain I can
> > make this happen for less than $5k. The hope is that this project will
> > be successful and complete by next fall, then I will start to set up a
> > manufacturing facility to construct them in kit form that can be
> > delivered by 2 flatbed trucks anywhere in the US. The trick in all of
> > this is many fold, 1st, to make the thing successful, 2nd, to make the
> > thing modular so that it can be easily transported and assembled and
> > 3rd, to make it affordable. On paper I have accomplished all 3. This
> > has been a 3 year research and design project so far and I can't wait
> > to get physical with it. I've already started to assemble some of the
> > mechanics of the thing.
> I'm lookin' around the 20x20 we inhabit and we've never had
> any feeling of compromise, it needs quality, and an organized
> approach, but that's the way things ought to be done anyway.
> (I find the bedroom a bit small, but wife threw me a curve and
> put in a small dining room table, yup she likes to eat in the
> bedroom).
One of my ex-girlfriends and I used to eat in the bedroom all the time
while we watched tv (she liked the Antiques Roadshow and Charlie
Rose). In fact, I recall eating in the kitchen only once.
We had a pretty big apartment (long) with many rooms we rarely used:
Your 20x20 seems too big. ;)
|
|
Posted by Warm Worm on December 2, 2009, 1:18 am
show/hide quoted text
> [big snip]
> > > > > Where do you want to build it?
> > > > > Ken
> > > > Unsure yet, but what do you have in mind? (i.e., co-ownership of th=
> > > > project)
> > > WW, It's your play Shakespear, I'd consider a minority position.
> > Fair enough. Compensation? And would you be able/willing to travel?
> I (we) find the hard part of doing a highly innovative customized
> product, including the homes you're considering, to be ~ 80%
> study, and R&D. then with a ball-park idea of what you want,
> selecting the location and then the lot, that's your personal
> decision. From that we get the weather and an idea of code.
> Recall we're in the Oky valley BC, so it depends on your dream
> location.
Makes sense and I'm inclined to agree.
But again, how would you expect this project to pan out in terms of
your involvement? Would it be cash, barter, volunteer in exchange for
room and board/or whatever, no charge/strings, or some kind of shared
ownership or access to the final product? Would you have me suggest/
offer/negotiate something and see if you like it?
show/hide quoted text
> > > We have extra property, I'm going to build a 100 sq ft job to put
> > > a 'still' in to make booze about 8x12 interior, must be hygenic.
> > I want to do that too. I might be your "customer" until I can sort
> > mine out, as I'm a fan of vodka. We could do different kinds for
> > exchanges and "rum-runs". ;)
> Ok, potato ferment it is :-).
"Vodka is made from a fermented substance of either grain, rye, wheat,
potatoes, or sugar beet molasses." "...its popularity, elsewhere,
derives from its neutral spirit usefulness in cocktails and mixed
drinks, such as the bloody Mary, the screwdriver, the White Russian,
the vodka tonic, and the vodka martini."
- Wikipedia
show/hide quoted text
> > > How would you do the floor?
> > Of your still? Or the straw-bale post-and-beam-timber-frame home
> > (PABTF)?
> Well I avoid stucco and plasters because of settlement issues,
> strong winds and quakes that can crack that stuff.
"The full-scale, 14-by-14-foot straw house, complete with gravel
foundation and clay plaster walls, the way she builds them in
Pakistan, was subjected to 200 percent more acceleration/shaking than
was recorded at the 1994 Northridge, Calif. earthquake, the largest
measured ground acceleration in the world. After a series of seven
increasingly forceful tests, in the final powerful test the house
shook and swayed violently, cracked at the seams and sent out a small
cloud of dust and straw =85 and remained standing."
-- http://www.strawbale.com/aaa-rating-for-straw-bale-walls-in-earthquakes
As a rule, I've never been crazy about stucco, but natural plasters
look like exceptions. And if they do crack, they should be a breeze to
fix.
show/hide quoted text
> > Today, I read a little more about girts, bents, purlins, summers,
> > various PABTF joints, as well as light straw clay walls (ostensibly a
> > kind of rammed-earth-style way to do walls using clay slip [watery
> > clay] lightly tossed with straw as the ingredients rammed into the
> > forms) Very nice when they remove the form and you see the relatively
> > smooth solid wall and its straw texture. That should also work indoors
> > as far as I can tell and look good with "whitewall" plaster finish.
> We use numerous barriers to insects getting in, and also make
> sure what we have is easy to clean.
House centipedes rule. ;)
|
Page 5 of 13 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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> > > On Nov 29, 11:55 am, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative1...@gmail.com=
> > > wrote:
> > > > > On Nov 28, 9:07 pm, "creative1...@gmail.com" <creative1...@gmail.=
com>
> > > > > wrote: