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Posted by creative1985@gmail.com on August 23, 2008, 4:17 pm
>
>
>
1-133c188df830@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:
>
> > >> news:7a8b4080-32bc-4df3-
> > >> 86b4-2033a41de...@k36g2000pri.googlegroups.com:
>
> > >> [snipped]
>
> > >> > Architecture has evolved fairly
> > >> > well to keep things serviceable. In this place we
> > >> > designed we kept "serviceability access" in priority
> > >> > above appearance. We had a serious challenge as
> > >> > we have no basement, not even crawl space, so
> > >> > removeable panels were used.
> > >> > Ken
>
> > >> SOmething I've been wondering for a while is a realted to under-floo=
r
> > >> heating systems - usually, the tubes (that carry the hot waer) are
> > >> embedded in concrete when a foundation slab is poured, but, to make =
it
> > >> more acessible if repairs are needed, isn't there a way to use some
> > >> larger hosing to either (1) create a channel into which the actual
> > >> hoses/piping could be laid, and then have somewhat-raised flooring p=
ut
> > >> on top, or
> > >> (2) snake the hot-water hoses through the larger hoses/piping?
>
> > >> Just wondering.
>
> > > If you're worried about that, you can install them between floor
> > > joists -- that's how you heat the 2nd floor. =A0That would give you
> > > accessibility, so long as you are willing to tear up your floor. =A0O=
r,
> > > put in a basement so you can get at it from the bottom.
>
> > I never thought of in-floor heating on a second floor that isn't concre=
te (as
> > in a non-low-rise apartment building), to be honest - I've only ever se=
en it
> > embedded in concrete, so, if a repair has to be done, it's not just tha=
t the
> > floor has to be torn up, a concrete salb floor has to be torn up.
>
> > But I thought that, if a channel could be made in the concrete and the =
hot-
> > water hosing just laid in, and then if the floor on top could be on rai=
sed
> > panels (to insure there was no contact between the flooring and the hot
> > hosing/piping), then, if the system needed repair, there'd be no tearin=
g at
> > all so to speak, you just lift up the floor panels.
>
> > Would that not work...?
>
> > - Kris
>
> A friend of ours put in air channeling ducts under
> his basement floor right in the concrete, says it
> works great. He's a pro contractor and everything
> must be done to A+ standards.
>
> Myself, I ran a 1" plastic water pipe from the cistern
> inside 4" O-pipe to the house, buried about 18".
> We went away for a couple of weeks in the winter
> and - of course - temperatures plunged to near
> record lows, and there was nil snow for insulation.
> =A0Not a prob for Mr. Tucker, he designed provision
> for a hair dryer to push hot air into the O-pipe and
> proceeds to thaw the pipe per SOP, except for one
> minor detail...the hot air wouldn't flow. Hmm, WTF?
>
> A fitting had a slow leak and filled the O-pipe with
> water which froze! ....duh....forgot to put drain holes
> in the bottom of the O-pipe. Anyway, don't worry,
> were ok now :-).
> Ken
The holes would have frozen too.
The solution was heat tape on a thermocouple and a solar panel with
battery.
Or, just bury the dam thing 4' down and be done with it.
I know, I know, Ditch Witch rental is $75/hr but when you wanna run
with the big dawgs......
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