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Stupid footer question Bill 04-09-2008
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Posted by Pierre Levesque on April 10, 2008, 10:00 pm

>
> <snip>
>>
>> Backfilling should be done with a structural fill not susceptible to
>> freezing. A damp backfill with many fines just tossed back in will
>> heave a foundation just by being frozen to it. I always backfill with
>> gravel to within 8" of the surface, place a geofabric or tarpaper
>> sloped strongly away from the building for several feet, and complete
>> with topsoil. The geofabric or tarpaper keeps the fines from
>> infiltrating the gravel and directs them (and some moisture) away from
>> the building. Any basement in our climate (New England) should have
>> drainage tiles set at the bottom of the excavation on a substantial
>> bed of gravel, sloped to an outlet. In some cases I've used 2 sets of
>> drainage tiles, one half way down. EDS
>>
>>
>>
>
> How do you guys handle a non-basement foundation?
>
> Bill

consider doing an FPSF "Frost Protected Shallow Foundation" where you are
basically doing a flat slab but you place rigid insulation on teh outside
face of the foundation and then a foot or so below grade you lay more rigid
insulation in a horizontal position and extending out a few feet around the
entire perimeter of the foundation

http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/fpsf/
http://oikos.com/esb/43/foundations.html

An excellent design guide in pdf format:
http://www.toolbase.org/PDF/DesignGuides/revisedFPSFguide.pdf



Posted by Chuck News on April 10, 2008, 2:27 am

> Ok, here comes the stupid footer question of the month. I've been
> researching info on constructing a garage and know that I have to have a
> footer below the frost line, which in my neck of the woods is 32 inches,
> my
> question is exactly WHAT has to be below that line. Does the entire
> footer
> need to be below as in a 8 inch thick footer has the top of the footer at
> 32 inches or does the footer just have to sit or have its bottom at the
> frost line.
>
> I originally thought it was the first way but have since seen some
> inferences that it might be the second way. I want to do this correctly
> but
> if I can start the footer 8 inches higher I save on hand digging 16 x 8
> inches of dirt and save on 8 x 8 inches of concrete for the stem wall thus
> lightening the load on my wallet and back.
>
> Bill

Didn't you know that this is a question that you have to ask your
engineer????? He would design the footing correctly and the correct size.

CID..


Posted by RicodJour on April 10, 2008, 7:55 am
>
> > Ok, here comes the stupid footer question of the month. I've been
> > researching info on constructing a garage and know that I have to have a
> > footer below the frost line, which in my neck of the woods is 32 inches,
> > my
> > question is exactly WHAT has to be below that line. Does the entire
> > footer
> > need to be below as in a 8 inch thick footer has the top of the footer at
> > 32 inches or does the footer just have to sit or have its bottom at the
> > frost line.
>
> > I originally thought it was the first way but have since seen some
> > inferences that it might be the second way. I want to do this correctly
> > but
> > if I can start the footer 8 inches higher I save on hand digging 16 x 8
> > inches of dirt and save on 8 x 8 inches of concrete for the stem wall thus
> > lightening the load on my wallet and back.
>
>
> Didn't you know that this is a question that you have to ask your
> engineer????? He would design the footing correctly and the correct size.

How do you know the OP requires an engineer for a garage where he is?
His is a question, yours is an assumption.

R

Posted by Bill on April 10, 2008, 8:28 am

<snip>
>
> Didn't you know that this is a question that you have to ask your
> engineer????? He would design the footing correctly and the correct
> size.
>
> CID..
>

Now that you got that off your chest do you have a real answer?

If I could afford an engineer I wouldn't be asking this here and since
buildings have been built for quite a long time before there were engineers
I expect that with the right input I can get by without one now.


Bill

Posted by RicodJour on April 10, 2008, 10:06 am
>
> If I could afford an engineer I wouldn't be asking this here and since
> buildings have been built for quite a long time before there were engineers
> I expect that with the right input I can get by without one now.

Does that mean that you are supposed to get a permit and you won't, or
that one is not required?

R

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