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10" tread boards okay for staircase?

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10" tread boards okay for staircase? Sasquatch 10-17-2006
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Posted by Sasquatch on October 17, 2006, 10:42 pm
What do you guys think about 10" tread boards and
seven-and-three-eights-inches for the riser boards on our staircase?
The rough opening for our staircase on the second floor is off by 3
feet. The mistake was made by the truss company that designed our
floor truss systems, and nobody caught it until after our staircase was
built. Among other necessary changes (see our blog for details), this
caused our staircase tread boards to be only 10 inches. This is
allowed by code, but it is not exactly a luxurious size for the steps.
What do you guys think? Is 10 inches too wimpy and cramped? Here is a
link to our blog article where you can find a drawing that shows the
newly rearranged second floor. All feedback is greatly appreciated.

http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/35/Disaster-Avoided-By-Rearranging-Second-Floor.aspx


Posted by Shannon Pate on October 17, 2006, 11:11 pm
If you are adhering to the 2003 IRC, you may not be in compliance.

If, by 10" tread boards, you mean that the stair stringers will be cut with
a 10" seat, then you'll be fine. But if you mean the actual place where you
put your foot will only be 10", then you are in violation.

The language on this one is tricky. The codes say that a 10" minimum tread
is required. However, it says two things that are going to hang you up. It
says that treads less than 11" must have a nosing. It also says that the
treads are to be measured from the foremost projection of adjacent treads.
Therefore, your 10" step must have a nosing (I think the minimum nosing is
3/4") which will bring your measurement between the foremost projection of
adjacent treads down to a maximum of 9 1/4" which is a violation.

I don't know why they wrote it this way, but the bottom line is the level
cut of the stair stringer must measure at least 10" without adding any
tread.

If no ones inspecting, I say go forward. Until the IRC was adopted around
here we cut stairs on 9" with a 1" or 1 1/2" nosing all the time. In fact,
thats what was in my last house and I never once fell and broke my neck...go
figure...

Shannon Pate


> What do you guys think about 10" tread boards and
> seven-and-three-eights-inches for the riser boards on our staircase?
> The rough opening for our staircase on the second floor is off by 3
> feet. The mistake was made by the truss company that designed our
> floor truss systems, and nobody caught it until after our staircase was
> built. Among other necessary changes (see our blog for details), this
> caused our staircase tread boards to be only 10 inches. This is
> allowed by code, but it is not exactly a luxurious size for the steps.
> What do you guys think? Is 10 inches too wimpy and cramped? Here is a
> link to our blog article where you can find a drawing that shows the
> newly rearranged second floor. All feedback is greatly appreciated.
>
>
http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/35/Disaster-Avoided-By-Rearranging-Second-Floor.aspx
>



Posted by Sasquatch on October 18, 2006, 12:03 am
What is "2003 IRC?" Does that apply hear in Wisconsin?

When I measured the tread board, it was 10" from the face of the riser
to the edge of the tread board. So the part I put my foot on is 10".
There is a nosing, which hangs over somewhere between 1/2" and 1" but I
didn't measure that so I'm not certain.

- John

Shannon Pate wrote:
> If you are adhering to the 2003 IRC, you may not be in compliance.
>
> If, by 10" tread boards, you mean that the stair stringers will be cut with
> a 10" seat, then you'll be fine. But if you mean the actual place where you
> put your foot will only be 10", then you are in violation.
>
> The language on this one is tricky. The codes say that a 10" minimum tread
> is required. However, it says two things that are going to hang you up. It
> says that treads less than 11" must have a nosing. It also says that the
> treads are to be measured from the foremost projection of adjacent treads.
> Therefore, your 10" step must have a nosing (I think the minimum nosing is
> 3/4") which will bring your measurement between the foremost projection of
> adjacent treads down to a maximum of 9 1/4" which is a violation.
>
> I don't know why they wrote it this way, but the bottom line is the level
> cut of the stair stringer must measure at least 10" without adding any
> tread.
>
> If no ones inspecting, I say go forward. Until the IRC was adopted around
> here we cut stairs on 9" with a 1" or 1 1/2" nosing all the time. In fact,
> thats what was in my last house and I never once fell and broke my neck...go
> figure...
>
> Shannon Pate
>
>
> > What do you guys think about 10" tread boards and
> > seven-and-three-eights-inches for the riser boards on our staircase?
> > The rough opening for our staircase on the second floor is off by 3
> > feet. The mistake was made by the truss company that designed our
> > floor truss systems, and nobody caught it until after our staircase was
> > built. Among other necessary changes (see our blog for details), this
> > caused our staircase tread boards to be only 10 inches. This is
> > allowed by code, but it is not exactly a luxurious size for the steps.
> > What do you guys think? Is 10 inches too wimpy and cramped? Here is a
> > link to our blog article where you can find a drawing that shows the
> > newly rearranged second floor. All feedback is greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/35/Disaster-Avoided-By-Rearranging-Second-Floor.aspx
> >


Posted by Shannon Pate on October 18, 2006, 12:40 am
I did some searching online.

It appears to me that there is a statewide adoption of the UDC codes in
Wisconsin. Once I learned that, I did some googling for stair codes in the
UDC. I found a UDC commentary which had some interesting information. Here
is the link to the commentary located on the Wisconsin Department of
Commerce website followed by the exerpt:

http://commerce.wi.gov/SBdocs/SB-UDCCommentary21A.pdf

(c) Tread depth. 1. 'Rectangular treads.' Rectangular treads shall have
minimum tread depth of 9 inches measured horizontally from nosing to nosing.

There is a notice under the commentary that says that all changes from
January 2005 were not included, but provides information on those changes.
In that document, the only stair related entries regarded the spacing of
spindles and such.

You can easily find all your answers tomorrow by calling the buliding
department listed on the building permit.

Shannon Pate

> What is "2003 IRC?" Does that apply hear in Wisconsin?
>
> When I measured the tread board, it was 10" from the face of the riser
> to the edge of the tread board. So the part I put my foot on is 10".
> There is a nosing, which hangs over somewhere between 1/2" and 1" but I
> didn't measure that so I'm not certain.
>
> - John
>
> Shannon Pate wrote:
>> If you are adhering to the 2003 IRC, you may not be in compliance.
>>
>> If, by 10" tread boards, you mean that the stair stringers will be cut
>> with
>> a 10" seat, then you'll be fine. But if you mean the actual place where
>> you
>> put your foot will only be 10", then you are in violation.
>>
>> The language on this one is tricky. The codes say that a 10" minimum
>> tread
>> is required. However, it says two things that are going to hang you up.
>> It
>> says that treads less than 11" must have a nosing. It also says that the
>> treads are to be measured from the foremost projection of adjacent
>> treads.
>> Therefore, your 10" step must have a nosing (I think the minimum nosing
>> is
>> 3/4") which will bring your measurement between the foremost projection
>> of
>> adjacent treads down to a maximum of 9 1/4" which is a violation.
>>
>> I don't know why they wrote it this way, but the bottom line is the level
>> cut of the stair stringer must measure at least 10" without adding any
>> tread.
>>
>> If no ones inspecting, I say go forward. Until the IRC was adopted
>> around
>> here we cut stairs on 9" with a 1" or 1 1/2" nosing all the time. In
>> fact,
>> thats what was in my last house and I never once fell and broke my
>> neck...go
>> figure...
>>
>> Shannon Pate
>>
>>
>> > What do you guys think about 10" tread boards and
>> > seven-and-three-eights-inches for the riser boards on our staircase?
>> > The rough opening for our staircase on the second floor is off by 3
>> > feet. The mistake was made by the truss company that designed our
>> > floor truss systems, and nobody caught it until after our staircase was
>> > built. Among other necessary changes (see our blog for details), this
>> > caused our staircase tread boards to be only 10 inches. This is
>> > allowed by code, but it is not exactly a luxurious size for the steps.
>> > What do you guys think? Is 10 inches too wimpy and cramped? Here is a
>> > link to our blog article where you can find a drawing that shows the
>> > newly rearranged second floor. All feedback is greatly appreciated.
>> >
>> >
http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/35/Disaster-Avoided-By-Rearranging-Second-Floor.aspx
>> >
>



Posted by Pat on October 17, 2006, 11:48 pm

Sasquatch wrote:
> What do you guys think about 10" tread boards and
> seven-and-three-eights-inches for the riser boards on our staircase?
> The rough opening for our staircase on the second floor is off by 3
> feet. The mistake was made by the truss company that designed our
> floor truss systems, and nobody caught it until after our staircase was
> built. Among other necessary changes (see our blog for details), this
> caused our staircase tread boards to be only 10 inches. This is
> allowed by code, but it is not exactly a luxurious size for the steps.
> What do you guys think? Is 10 inches too wimpy and cramped? Here is a
> link to our blog article where you can find a drawing that shows the
> newly rearranged second floor. All feedback is greatly appreciated.
>
>
http://www.mynewoldhouse.com/house/article/35/Disaster-Avoided-By-Rearranging-Second-Floor.aspx

Okay, I'll say it before Don does: The truss company read the plans
wrong, missed the stair opening by 10 FEET, and you trust them to hold
your house up???????

The good news is that you want your house to look "old" and a steep
stairway is definately old. So that's good. The bad news is that they
changed to a larger stairway for a reason.


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