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Anchor Bolts - Commode To Concrete Floor

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Anchor Bolts - Commode To Concrete Floor jaygreg 09-19-2006
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Posted by jaygreg on September 19, 2006, 12:04 pm
My lower level got wet twice over the past half dozen years. Once when the
vacant lot next to me was cleared for a house and then when a water tank
broke and seeped under the wall. The entire area is carpeted, including the
lavatory.



Yesterday I noticed the commode wobbled ever so slightly. When I
investigated, one of the anchor bolts pulled right out of its socket at the
base of the commode. I turned off the water supply line and drained it. I'll
let it set a few days to get it really dry.



My plan is to disconnect the tank from the commode, remove the one remaining
nut on the anchor bolt that's still in place, then tug on the commode to
remove it.



Q1) Any tips on pulling this off the concrete floor or is it pretty
straight forward?



Next, I'll probably have to chip with a chisel or drill with a cement drill
to remove the rusted anchor bolt that broke. I suspect I'm gonna' find the
other one in poor enough shape that I'm gonna' want to replace it as well. I
suppose I can just buy these bolts, insert them into the holes I prepare,
then cement them in place with. what? I have some Quikrete hydraulic cement
but I'm not sure that appropriate here.



Q2) What should I use to cement the anchor bolts?



Q3) Any tips for reassembly?



I appreciate your help.



Posted by SteveF on September 19, 2006, 6:24 pm

> My lower level got wet twice over the past half dozen years. Once when the
> vacant lot next to me was cleared for a house and then when a water tank
> broke and seeped under the wall. The entire area is carpeted, including
> the lavatory.
>
>
>
> Yesterday I noticed the commode wobbled ever so slightly. When I
> investigated, one of the anchor bolts pulled right out of its socket at
> the base of the commode. I turned off the water supply line and drained
> it. I'll let it set a few days to get it really dry.
>
>
>
> My plan is to disconnect the tank from the commode, remove the one
> remaining nut on the anchor bolt that's still in place, then tug on the
> commode to remove it.
>
>
>
> Q1) Any tips on pulling this off the concrete floor or is it pretty
> straight forward?
>
>
>
> Next, I'll probably have to chip with a chisel or drill with a cement
> drill to remove the rusted anchor bolt that broke. I suspect I'm gonna'
> find the other one in poor enough shape that I'm gonna' want to replace it
> as well. I suppose I can just buy these bolts, insert them into the holes
> I prepare, then cement them in place with. what? I have some Quikrete
> hydraulic cement but I'm not sure that appropriate here.
>
>
>
> Q2) What should I use to cement the anchor bolts?
>
>
>
> Q3) Any tips for reassembly?
>
>
>
> I appreciate your help.
>
>

Not a plumber but all the toilets I've done have just got the bolts riding
in a slot in the pipe flange. Undo the water line, take the tank off (you
have to turn the base over to put on the wax ring), remove the remaining nut
and it should lift right off.

The bolts should just come out of the slot, replace them both with new ones
and a new wax ring. Suggest you buy two wax rings as I've had two where the
pipe flange was set too far down and the toilet was fully on the floor
before the ring sealed all the way around. As you set the base down you
should feel it sitting down on the wax ring while still an inch or so off
the floor. If the base is on the floor first, pull it back off and put a
second ring on top of the first. Return the second if one ring does it.

Push down on the tank as you tighten the bolts so you can feel where it's
seated. I've been told you can crack the tank if you overtighten so don't
pretend they are lug nuts. I just make it a little tighter after hand
tight.

If the bolts are mounted directly in concrete, drill a hole oversize and
epoxy the bolt in the hole.

Steve.






Posted by jaygreg on September 20, 2006, 12:13 am
I've repaired only one of these in my 64 years ... but then I never worked
in the trades. (I missed a hell-o-va lot of fun 'cause I can't seem to get
enough of this type of activity.) I do remember now that those bolts were in
a slot of the pipe itself. However... in the event they aren't and I've got
to bolt through the concrete.... any particular epoxy I should use?


>
> > My lower level got wet twice over the past half dozen years. Once when
the
> > vacant lot next to me was cleared for a house and then when a water tank
> > broke and seeped under the wall. The entire area is carpeted, including
> > the lavatory.
> >
> >
> >
> > Yesterday I noticed the commode wobbled ever so slightly. When I
> > investigated, one of the anchor bolts pulled right out of its socket at
> > the base of the commode. I turned off the water supply line and drained
> > it. I'll let it set a few days to get it really dry.
> >
> >
> >
> > My plan is to disconnect the tank from the commode, remove the one
> > remaining nut on the anchor bolt that's still in place, then tug on the
> > commode to remove it.
> >
> >
> >
> > Q1) Any tips on pulling this off the concrete floor or is it pretty
> > straight forward?
> >
> >
> >
> > Next, I'll probably have to chip with a chisel or drill with a cement
> > drill to remove the rusted anchor bolt that broke. I suspect I'm gonna'
> > find the other one in poor enough shape that I'm gonna' want to replace
it
> > as well. I suppose I can just buy these bolts, insert them into the
holes
> > I prepare, then cement them in place with. what? I have some Quikrete
> > hydraulic cement but I'm not sure that appropriate here.
> >
> >
> >
> > Q2) What should I use to cement the anchor bolts?
> >
> >
> >
> > Q3) Any tips for reassembly?
> >
> >
> >
> > I appreciate your help.
> >
> >
>
> Not a plumber but all the toilets I've done have just got the bolts riding
> in a slot in the pipe flange. Undo the water line, take the tank off (you
> have to turn the base over to put on the wax ring), remove the remaining
nut
> and it should lift right off.
>
> The bolts should just come out of the slot, replace them both with new
ones
> and a new wax ring. Suggest you buy two wax rings as I've had two where
the
> pipe flange was set too far down and the toilet was fully on the floor
> before the ring sealed all the way around. As you set the base down you
> should feel it sitting down on the wax ring while still an inch or so off
> the floor. If the base is on the floor first, pull it back off and put a
> second ring on top of the first. Return the second if one ring does it.
>
> Push down on the tank as you tighten the bolts so you can feel where it's
> seated. I've been told you can crack the tank if you overtighten so don't
> pretend they are lug nuts. I just make it a little tighter after hand
> tight.
>
> If the bolts are mounted directly in concrete, drill a hole oversize and
> epoxy the bolt in the hole.
>
> Steve.
>
>
>
>
>



Posted by SteveF on September 20, 2006, 9:52 am

> I've repaired only one of these in my 64 years ... but then I never worked
> in the trades. (I missed a hell-o-va lot of fun 'cause I can't seem to get
> enough of this type of activity.) I do remember now that those bolts were
> in
> a slot of the pipe itself. However... in the event they aren't and I've
> got
> to bolt through the concrete.... any particular epoxy I should use?
>
>

Any two part epoxy should work. Personally I stay away from the super fast
setting ones as they always seem to start setting up when I'm half way done
putting the parts in.

Steve.



Posted by jaygreg on September 20, 2006, 1:48 pm
Thanks for the advice, Steve.

>
> > I've repaired only one of these in my 64 years ... but then I never
worked
> > in the trades. (I missed a hell-o-va lot of fun 'cause I can't seem to
get
> > enough of this type of activity.) I do remember now that those bolts
were
> > in
> > a slot of the pipe itself. However... in the event they aren't and I've
> > got
> > to bolt through the concrete.... any particular epoxy I should use?
> >
> >
>
> Any two part epoxy should work. Personally I stay away from the super
fast
> setting ones as they always seem to start setting up when I'm half way
done
> putting the parts in.
>
> Steve.
>
>



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