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Posted by DanG on September 12, 2009, 12:50 am
Yes, it is quite normal to hang grade beam cages, etc. Another
possibility would be to pour a portion, place the steel, and then
complete the pour. It will mean tying laps and corner bars in
location, and an inspector may not accept your word to install.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net
> Thanks guys. I don't want to do it twice so I'll will not be
> driving rebar into the ground as stakes. I will need one #5
> bar in the middle of the footing. Thats about 10" above the
> ground. So, would you guys suspend it?
> Thanks,
> RO
> --
> Robert Olin
> Bob's Water & Septic LLC
> jolin@whidbey.net
> http://soilsandseptic.com/bobs.html
>> Weather is beautiful.
>> I am going to stick to my usual method of placing rebar on
>> dobies.
>> and keeping an earth contact away.....at least 3"
>> john
>>>> Hi Tom.
>>>> I have always wondered about this, and we always do put steel
>>>> on concrete blocking. not red brick......either.
>>>> there is a maintained 3" from earth contact in most plans.
>>>> Is the steel like a electrical wire that would transmit rust?
>>>> I still have trouble visualizing rust following steel.
>>>> Anyway, I do use concrete dobies.....
>>>> john
>>>>> Rebar should NOT touch the ground or be driven into the
>>>>> ground as a stake to support other bars. There is a reason
>>>>> that most specs. call for a minimum clearance of 2-3 in.
>>>>> from the surface of the concrete or earth contact. As John
>>>>> stated earlier, use some concrete (NOT RED) bricks for
>>>>> chairs to suspend the horiz. bars from the ground surface.
>>>>> The rust will travel to the bars in the concrete over time
>>>>> and cause destruction of the footing or slab. Surface rust
>>>>> or oxidation on reinforcing steel is harmless if contained,
>>>>> however when the bars are subject to severe rusting they
>>>>> expand and will ultimately cause the concrete to fail.
>>>>>> Anal. (although since it is not a bridge, a high rise, or
>>>>>> an overpass, I do not see why not!)
>>>>>> Most of the times I just use a dobe - concrete block that
>>>>>> ties to steel. Or, make an angle out of a smaller
>>>>>> rebar........right angle......say 2' x2' and rest it on the
>>>>>> concrete 3" x 3" dobe and tie the steel to it.
>>>>>> I cannot imagine the rust traveling from the
>>>>>> ground........all the way up to possibly compromise the
>>>>>> steel horizontal piece.
>>>>>> john
>>>>>>> Residencial code calles for one #5 bar in the center of a
>>>>>>> mono slab footing or 2 #4 bars. Anyone know if it's ok
>>>>>>> to drive a verticle piece of rebar into the ground to tie
>>>>>>> these horizontal bars to, or are they so anal retentive
>>>>>>> that they think the steel will rust into the concrete?
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>> Robert Olin
>>>>>>> Bob's Water & Septic LLC
>>>>>>> jolin@whidbey.net
>>>>>>> http://soilsandseptic.com/bobs.html
>>> John,
>>> I think Peter and Dan have answered your question, so I won't
>>> go into the tech. end of the whys and wherefores unless you
>>> want that info. If you do, you know how to contact me. Hope
>>> the weather is nice in No. CA this time of the year.
>
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> driving rebar into the ground as stakes. I will need one #5
> bar in the middle of the footing. Thats about 10" above the
> ground. So, would you guys suspend it?
> Thanks,
> RO
> --
> Robert Olin
> Bob's Water & Septic LLC
> jolin@whidbey.net
> http://soilsandseptic.com/bobs.html