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Attaching deck ledger to concrete foundation wall

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Attaching deck ledger to concrete foundation wall beerguzzler50 09-24-2007
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Posted by on September 26, 2007, 9:56 am
> on 9/26/2007 8:57 AM beerguzzle...@yahoo.com said the following:
>
>
>
>
> >> EXT wrote:
>
> >>> Personally, I would (and have done it this way) drill all the way through
> >>> the concrete foundation and run long bolts, or threaded rod, bolting your
> >>> ledger board to the wall. This way anchors cannot slip out if they don't
> >>> have a good purchase on the concrete. Remember to insert spacers between
the
> >>> concrete and the ledger board, so that the bolts run through the spacers so
> >>> that the ledger has an air space between it and the concrete. This will
help
> >>> keep it dry.
>
>
> >>>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
> >>>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
> >>>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>
> >>>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
> >>>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
> >>>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
> >>>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
> >>>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
> >>>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
> >>>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
> >>>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>
> >>>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>
> >> Hi,
> >> And flashing just to be sure to keep water away.
> >> That's what I did when built a deck.
>
> > Why space the ledger out from the wall? If it for moisture, isn't
> > that what the flashing accomplishes. Good idea on the stainless wedge
> > bolts. I would think that if the ledger is spaced out, you loose the
> > strength of the ledger being up against a solid surface and are now
> > just relying on the actual bolts.
>
> Depends upon how high off the ground the deck sits. The deck I had
> before it was torn up for a sunroom was no more than 18" off the ground.
> The posts were 3' into the ground and it was not attached to the house
> at all. No need for a ledger or flashing. The siding wasn't even
> removed, so the rain and snow melt just ran down between the wall and deck.
>
> --
>
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> To email, remove the double zeroes after @

My deck will be about 3.5 feet above the ground.


Posted by willshak on September 26, 2007, 10:26 am
on 9/26/2007 9:56 AM beerguzzler50@yahoo.com said the following:
>
>> on 9/26/2007 8:57 AM beerguzzle...@yahoo.com said the following:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>> EXT wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Personally, I would (and have done it this way) drill all the way through
>>>>> the concrete foundation and run long bolts, or threaded rod, bolting your
>>>>> ledger board to the wall. This way anchors cannot slip out if they don't
>>>>> have a good purchase on the concrete. Remember to insert spacers between
the
>>>>> concrete and the ledger board, so that the bolts run through the spacers so
>>>>> that the ledger has an air space between it and the concrete. This will
help
>>>>> keep it dry.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
>>>>>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
>>>>>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
>>>>>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
>>>>>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
>>>>>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
>>>>>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
>>>>>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
>>>>>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
>>>>>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>>>>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>> And flashing just to be sure to keep water away.
>>>> That's what I did when built a deck.
>>>>
>>> Why space the ledger out from the wall? If it for moisture, isn't
>>> that what the flashing accomplishes. Good idea on the stainless wedge
>>> bolts. I would think that if the ledger is spaced out, you loose the
>>> strength of the ledger being up against a solid surface and are now
>>> just relying on the actual bolts.
>>>
>> Depends upon how high off the ground the deck sits. The deck I had
>> before it was torn up for a sunroom was no more than 18" off the ground.
>> The posts were 3' into the ground and it was not attached to the house
>> at all. No need for a ledger or flashing. The siding wasn't even
>> removed, so the rain and snow melt just ran down between the wall and deck.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Bill
>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>>
>
> My deck will be about 3.5 feet above the ground.
>
>

My deck (18" above ground) was erected by me. It was 20' x 18', all PS
lumber, and I had 12 PT 4x4 posts buried 3' in the ground (3 rows of 4,
and no concrete).
All the joists were 2 x 8 16" OC and the ledger end, rim and end joists
were 2 x 10s. It was there for about 18 years and never moved up,
down, or away from the wall..
At 3.5' feet high, I would suspect that you wouldn't have any racking
either. However, it would depend upon what your building inspector wants.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Posted by Dennis on October 1, 2007, 4:23 pm
It may not be much, but around here, if it's attached to the house, it's not
added to you property taxes.

>> on 9/26/2007 8:57 AM beerguzzle...@yahoo.com said the following:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >> EXT wrote:
>>
>> >>> Personally, I would (and have done it this way) drill all the way
>> >>> through
>> >>> the concrete foundation and run long bolts, or threaded rod, bolting
>> >>> your
>> >>> ledger board to the wall. This way anchors cannot slip out if they
>> >>> don't
>> >>> have a good purchase on the concrete. Remember to insert spacers
>> >>> between the
>> >>> concrete and the ledger board, so that the bolts run through the
>> >>> spacers so
>> >>> that the ledger has an air space between it and the concrete. This
>> >>> will help
>> >>> keep it dry.
>>
>>
>> >>>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question
>> >>>> about
>> >>>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
>> >>>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>>
>> >>>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
>> >>>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
>> >>>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
>> >>>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then
>> >>>> I
>> >>>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
>> >>>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
>> >>>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since
>> >>>> I
>> >>>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>>
>> >>>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>>
>> >> Hi,
>> >> And flashing just to be sure to keep water away.
>> >> That's what I did when built a deck.
>>
>> > Why space the ledger out from the wall? If it for moisture, isn't
>> > that what the flashing accomplishes. Good idea on the stainless wedge
>> > bolts. I would think that if the ledger is spaced out, you loose the
>> > strength of the ledger being up against a solid surface and are now
>> > just relying on the actual bolts.
>>
>> Depends upon how high off the ground the deck sits. The deck I had
>> before it was torn up for a sunroom was no more than 18" off the ground.
>> The posts were 3' into the ground and it was not attached to the house
>> at all. No need for a ledger or flashing. The siding wasn't even
>> removed, so the rain and snow melt just ran down between the wall and
>> deck.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Bill
>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>
> My deck will be about 3.5 feet above the ground.
>
>



Posted by Dave on September 24, 2007, 7:39 pm
>I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>
> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>
> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>

For longevity, I would use true stainless steel not galvanized hardware.
That includes the entire subfloor, not just the ledger board. After
assembly, let all the PT dry out for a few months. Then, apply a water
seal. Don't be afraid to use some silicon caulk if you see small areas not
sealing right. Functional and ugly beat purty and dysfunctional everytime.
Dave



Posted by Matt Whiting on September 24, 2007, 8:45 pm
Dave wrote:
>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>>
>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>>
>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>>
>
> For longevity, I would use true stainless steel not galvanized hardware.
> That includes the entire subfloor, not just the ledger board. After
> assembly, let all the PT dry out for a few months. Then, apply a water
> seal. Don't be afraid to use some silicon caulk if you see small areas not
> sealing right. Functional and ugly beat purty and dysfunctional everytime.
> Dave

I would use silicone caulk. I don't think I've ever seen silicon caulk.
:-)

Matt

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