Attaching deck ledger to concrete foundation wall - Page 2

> on 9/26/2007 8:57 AM beerguzzle...@yahoo.com said the following:
> >> EXT wrote:
> >>> Personally, I would (and have done it this way) drill all the way through
> >>> the concrete foundation and run long bolts, or threaded rod, bolting your
> >>> ledger board to the wall. This way anchors cannot slip out if they don't
> >>> have a good purchase on the concrete. Remember to insert spacers between

> >>> concrete and the ledger board, so that the bolts run through the spacers so
> >>> that the ledger has an air space between it and the concrete. This will

> >>> keep it dry.
> >>>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
> >>>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
> >>>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
> >>>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
> >>>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
> >>>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
> >>>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
> >>>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
> >>>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
> >>>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
> >>>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
> >>>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
> >> Hi,
> >> And flashing just to be sure to keep water away.
> >> That's what I did when built a deck.
> > Why space the ledger out from the wall? If it for moisture, isn't
> > that what the flashing accomplishes. Good idea on the stainless wedge
> > bolts. I would think that if the ledger is spaced out, you loose the
> > strength of the ledger being up against a solid surface and are now
> > just relying on the actual bolts.
> Depends upon how high off the ground the deck sits. The deck I had
> before it was torn up for a sunroom was no more than 18" off the ground.
> The posts were 3' into the ground and it was not attached to the house
> at all. No need for a ledger or flashing. The siding wasn't even
> removed, so the rain and snow melt just ran down between the wall and deck.
> --
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> To email, remove the double zeroes after @

>
>> on 9/26/2007 8:57 AM beerguzzle...@yahoo.com said the following:
>>
>>>
>>>> EXT wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Personally, I would (and have done it this way) drill all the way through
>>>>> the concrete foundation and run long bolts, or threaded rod, bolting your
>>>>> ledger board to the wall. This way anchors cannot slip out if they don't
>>>>> have a good purchase on the concrete. Remember to insert spacers between

>>>>> concrete and the ledger board, so that the bolts run through the spacers so
>>>>> that the ledger has an air space between it and the concrete. This will

>>>>> keep it dry.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
>>>>>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
>>>>>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
>>>>>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
>>>>>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
>>>>>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
>>>>>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
>>>>>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
>>>>>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
>>>>>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>>>>>>
>>>> Hi,
>>>> And flashing just to be sure to keep water away.
>>>> That's what I did when built a deck.
>>>>
>>> Why space the ledger out from the wall? If it for moisture, isn't
>>> that what the flashing accomplishes. Good idea on the stainless wedge
>>> bolts. I would think that if the ledger is spaced out, you loose the
>>> strength of the ledger being up against a solid surface and are now
>>> just relying on the actual bolts.
>>>
>> Depends upon how high off the ground the deck sits. The deck I had
>> before it was torn up for a sunroom was no more than 18" off the ground.
>> The posts were 3' into the ground and it was not attached to the house
>> at all. No need for a ledger or flashing. The siding wasn't even
>> removed, so the rain and snow melt just ran down between the wall and deck.
>> --
>> Bill
>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
>>
> My deck will be about 3.5 feet above the ground.
>

>> on 9/26/2007 8:57 AM beerguzzle...@yahoo.com said the following:
>> >> EXT wrote:
>> >>> Personally, I would (and have done it this way) drill all the way
>> >>> through
>> >>> the concrete foundation and run long bolts, or threaded rod, bolting
>> >>> your
>> >>> ledger board to the wall. This way anchors cannot slip out if they
>> >>> don't
>> >>> have a good purchase on the concrete. Remember to insert spacers
>> >>> between the
>> >>> concrete and the ledger board, so that the bolts run through the
>> >>> spacers so
>> >>> that the ledger has an air space between it and the concrete. This
>> >>> will help
>> >>> keep it dry.
>> >>>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question
>> >>>> about
>> >>>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
>> >>>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>> >>>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
>> >>>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
>> >>>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
>> >>>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then
>> >>>> I
>> >>>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
>> >>>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
>> >>>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since
>> >>>> I
>> >>>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>> >>>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>> >> Hi,
>> >> And flashing just to be sure to keep water away.
>> >> That's what I did when built a deck.
>> > Why space the ledger out from the wall? If it for moisture, isn't
>> > that what the flashing accomplishes. Good idea on the stainless wedge
>> > bolts. I would think that if the ledger is spaced out, you loose the
>> > strength of the ledger being up against a solid surface and are now
>> > just relying on the actual bolts.
>> Depends upon how high off the ground the deck sits. The deck I had
>> before it was torn up for a sunroom was no more than 18" off the ground.
>> The posts were 3' into the ground and it was not attached to the house
>> at all. No need for a ledger or flashing. The siding wasn't even
>> removed, so the rain and snow melt just ran down between the wall and
>> deck.
>> --
>> Bill
>> In Hamptonburgh, NY
>> To email, remove the double zeroes after @
> My deck will be about 3.5 feet above the ground.
>

>> I am building a PT deck attached to my house and have a question about
>> attaching the deck ledger board. Most everything I have read talks
>> about connecting it to wood, not concrete.
>> Here's what I was thinking of doing. All my joists are going to be
>> 2x8, so I was going to use 2x10 for the ledger board. I am going to
>> run 2 lapping strips of Grace Vycor ledger/flashing (it is like ice/
>> water shield, only 9" wide) under the siding and ledger board. Then I
>> am going to drill into the concrete and use 1/2"x5.5" RedHead wedge
>> (hot dipped galvanized) anchors--2 of them in every other joist bay
>> (16" OC). Next I was going to use vinyl deck ledger flashing since I
>> have heard that aluminum won't last well with the PT.
>> I want to do this right and have it last...am I on the right track?
>
> For longevity, I would use true stainless steel not galvanized hardware.
> That includes the entire subfloor, not just the ledger board. After
> assembly, let all the PT dry out for a few months. Then, apply a water
> seal. Don't be afraid to use some silicon caulk if you see small areas not
> sealing right. Functional and ugly beat purty and dysfunctional everytime.
> Dave