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Posted by on April 2, 2009, 6:15 pm
> Could he take the foam down, build a stud wall, do the electrical, and
> insulate between the studs like a regular stud wall, either foam or
> fiberglass, then cover with sheet rock, tape, float, prime and paint???
> > jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > On Apr 1, 11:32 am, "Robert.Thompson"
> > >> Hello:
> > >> I have a cement block basement that is insulated with 2" foam glued =
in
> > >> place.
> > >> To meet the building code, I must cover the foam with drywall.
> > >> What methods, other than furring and expensive 'Tapcon' screws, may =
be
> > >> used to attach the drywall?
> > >> Thanks for any suggestions.
> > >> Rob.
> > > I think I'd try to cut clots inthe foam and add furring strips. Any
> > > solution involving glue is probably just asking for trouble down the
> > > road.
> > putting walls up in a basement is asking for trouble down the road. No
> > pain, no gain. always something.
> > s- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> He has to cover the foam to meet code in the event of fire.- Hide quoted =
text -
> - Show quoted text -
Sticking the XPS to the wall and then framing it out (with either
metal or wood with a least 1/2" gap) is commonly done and an accepted
method. No need to remove what's applied. If anything I would add
more foam into the stud bays, not fiberglass.
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Posted by Steve Barker on April 2, 2009, 11:14 pm
Craig M wrote:
> Could he take the foam down, build a stud wall, do the electrical, and
> insulate between the studs like a regular stud wall, either foam or
> fiberglass, then cover with sheet rock, tape, float, prime and paint???
>
Yep.
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Posted by on April 3, 2009, 10:21 am
> Craig M wrote:
> > Could he take the foam down, build a stud wall, do the electrical, and
> > insulate between the studs like a regular stud wall, either foam or
> > fiberglass, then cover with sheet rock, tape, float, prime and paint???
> Yep.
Fiberglass bats without the foam (that's already in place) will more
than likely become saturated, at some point in time, and cause a mold
problem. BTW, everything you'll ever need to know about this topic
can be found at the building science website.
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Posted by Craig M on April 3, 2009, 3:57 pm
Ok, try this, take the foam off, coat the wall with Dri-lock or sometype of
water proofer, frame the wall, do the wiring and what ever else between the
studs needs to be done, foam, then fiberglass, if you realy want some R
value, use 2x6 plates and studs., or used a spray foam, it will seal the
stud bays and is waterproof, so I have heard.
> Craig M wrote:
> > Could he take the foam down, build a stud wall, do the electrical, and
> > insulate between the studs like a regular stud wall, either foam or
> > fiberglass, then cover with sheet rock, tape, float, prime and paint???
> Yep.
Fiberglass bats without the foam (that's already in place) will more
than likely become saturated, at some point in time, and cause a mold
problem. BTW, everything you'll ever need to know about this topic
can be found at the building science website.
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Posted by on April 3, 2009, 7:09 pm
> Ok, try this, take the foam off, coat the wall with Dri-lock or sometype =
of
> water proofer, frame the wall, do the wiring and what ever else between t=
he
> studs =A0needs to be done, foam, then fiberglass, if you realy want some =
R
> value, use 2x6 plates and studs., or used a spray foam, it will seal the
> stud bays and is waterproof, so I have heard.
Why take the foam off? No need to remove the foam that is already
there, and if it's adhered to the block it'll more than likely be
destroyed trying to remove it.
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Page 3 of 4 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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> insulate between the studs like a regular stud wall, either foam or
> fiberglass, then cover with sheet rock, tape, float, prime and paint???