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Beam replacement question Mark G. 09-14-2007
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Posted by marson on September 15, 2007, 8:37 pm
>
> > Sister the existing beam with steel plate, glued plywood, additional 2x10,
> > or a combination of reinforcement
>
> Sistering the existing beam in place could be a solution. I suppose if I
> could get an engineer to specify the procedure and sign off on it, I could
> go that route.

Go to a lumberyard and ask them. Companies that sell engineered wood
products such as Microllams employ engineers who can do the design for
you free of charge.


Tankless Water Heaters 468x60
Posted by marson on September 15, 2007, 7:25 pm
>
> > You really need to provide some more information to answer this one.
> > I take it the beam is part of the floor system. How much weight?
> > What is the span? What would happen if you just went and pulled the
> > beam--certain collapse? Is this a completed structure or is it being
> > framed?
>
> Old house (1930). Beam span is 14'. Current beam is a doubled 2x10
> joist and exhibits some sagging.Walls above are plastered.
> Removing the beam would result in extensive damage and possible
> collapse, as the wall above the beam carries second floor load.
>
> > If there is a layer of plywood between the beam and the wall, you
> > might be able to wedge in a number of 2x's in pairs that run at
> > opposing angles down to the floor below.
>
> There is shiplap subflooring between the beam and the wall above.
> Perhaps this could carry the shear load temporarily if I were to support
> the subfloor on either side of the beam during replacement?

Its a matter of terminology, but I'd call that a doubled joist rather
than a beam. I'm with DanG on this one--jack it straight if you can
and sister on some additional wood--perhaps a 9 1/2 LVL on either
side. My other thought is that if has sagged in the distant past and
does not seem to be moving, can things be shimmed to make them appear
flat? I do think my original idea would work, but it would be a lot
of work, and you would have to have something solid to drop your
temporary supports to. Good luck.


Posted by willshak on September 16, 2007, 3:18 pm
on 9/15/2007 12:00 PM Mark G. said the following:
>
>> You really need to provide some more information to answer this one.
>> I take it the beam is part of the floor system. How much weight?
>> What is the span? What would happen if you just went and pulled the
>> beam--certain collapse? Is this a completed structure or is it being
>> framed?
>>
>
> Old house (1930). Beam span is 14'. Current beam is a doubled 2x10
> joist and exhibits some sagging.Walls above are plastered.
> Removing the beam would result in extensive damage and possible
> collapse, as the wall above the beam carries second floor load.
>
>
>> If there is a layer of plywood between the beam and the wall, you
>> might be able to wedge in a number of 2x's in pairs that run at
>> opposing angles down to the floor below.
>>
>
> There is shiplap subflooring between the beam and the wall above.
> Perhaps this could carry the shear load temporarily if I were to support
> the subfloor on either side of the beam during replacement?
>
>
>

Is there anyway to add sister 2 x 10s on either side of the beam?
Perhaps by using a jack, or adjustable lally column, on the center of
the existing beam and removing some of the sag ( 1/8" a day, over a
period of time, allowing the wall above to adjust), you could add the
sister 2 x 10s (or 2 x 12s if you can afford the 2" loss of headroom).
If possible and having drilling room, use 8" lag bolts, washers and
nuts, through the center of the beam and sisters, every foot or so. You
may, or may not, have to support the ends of the new beam. A 2 x 8 flush
against the wall under the ends will suffice.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

Posted by Don on September 16, 2007, 10:00 pm

> on 9/15/2007 12:00 PM Mark G. said the following:
>>
>>> You really need to provide some more information to answer this one.
>>> I take it the beam is part of the floor system. How much weight?
>>> What is the span? What would happen if you just went and pulled the
>>> beam--certain collapse? Is this a completed structure or is it being
>>> framed?
>>>
>>
>> Old house (1930). Beam span is 14'. Current beam is a doubled 2x10
>> joist and exhibits some sagging.Walls above are plastered.
>> Removing the beam would result in extensive damage and possible
>> collapse, as the wall above the beam carries second floor load.
>>
>>
>>> If there is a layer of plywood between the beam and the wall, you
>>> might be able to wedge in a number of 2x's in pairs that run at
>>> opposing angles down to the floor below.
>>>
>>
>> There is shiplap subflooring between the beam and the wall above.
>> Perhaps this could carry the shear load temporarily if I were to support
>> the subfloor on either side of the beam during replacement?
>>
>>
>>
>
> Is there anyway to add sister 2 x 10s on either side of the beam?
> Perhaps by using a jack, or adjustable lally column, on the center of the
> existing beam and removing some of the sag ( 1/8" a day, over a period of
> time, allowing the wall above to adjust), you could add the sister 2 x 10s
> (or 2 x 12s if you can afford the 2" loss of headroom).
> If possible and having drilling room, use 8" lag bolts, washers and nuts,
> through the center of the beam and sisters, every foot or so.


Don't forget to *stagger* those bolts to prevent splitting.



You
> may, or may not, have to support the ends of the new beam. A 2 x 8 flush
> against the wall under the ends will suffice.
>
> --
>
> Bill
> In Hamptonburgh, NY
> To email, remove the double zeroes after @



Posted by Robert Allison on September 14, 2007, 10:41 pm
Mark G. wrote:
> Good afternoon.
>
> I may need to replace a beam that supports a load running parallel to the
> beam (loadbearing wall on the floor above.) What is the technique to support
> the load under this circumstance? It's simple when the load runs
> perpendicular to the beam, but I can't visualize how to do it when the load
> runs parallel to the beam.
>
> Thanks
> -Mark

This is one of those questions that might require the advice
of a professional. I could look at it and tell you how to do
it safely. Problem is, I can't look at it from here.

Here are a few methods that are used in those situations, but
you may need someone who knows what they are doing to tell you
which one is best.

If the wall above has enough integrity to be a shear wall, you
can place supports in such a way as to support the structure
on either side of the beam and remove and replace the beam
without actually supporting the wall itself. This is due to
the fact that a shear wall will support itself for a short
period of time.

It it is not a shear wall, and the beam is not under the
entire length of the wall giving you support under both ends
of the wall, then you can bolt a beam to the side or both
sides of the wall above and support the ends.

If the wall above is entirely supported by the beam, then you
have to remove the beam in sections, adding support under the
wall as you go. When you install the new beam, you push it
into place from the side onto the end supports. Doing this
allows the beam to push the temporary supports out from under
the wall as the beam goes in. This can be tricky.

You could also bolt a beam to one side of the wall above,
support that and then remove and replace the beam.

Which one works in your situation is up to you (and the best
advice you can get from professionals).


--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

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