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Best method for installing radiant slab heat - Needed

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Best method for installing radiant slab heat - Needed Buddy 04-03-2007
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Posted by Bob Morrison on April 3, 2007, 2:06 pm
In a previous post Buddy wrote...
> I use 3/8" rebar 2' OC supported with 2" blocks of concrete with wire
> (called them something like 'dolby blocks.) I hear what you're saying
> about the 6x6 mesh, that would seem like it's only use would be in small
> slabs probably with expansion joints.
>
> I'm wondering how much I need to modify my design to include the radiant
> system. I've considered two pours since it seems to me that foam
> insulation underneath the initial pour would compress and/or breakdown
> over time.
>

If you use the proper foam made for underslab installation then I don't
think you need worry about it breaking down. The enemy of most of this
stuff is ultraviolet light and there's not much of that under a slab
<grin>. As for compressing, most of this stuff has a compression strength
in the 80-100 psi range. Allowable soil pressures are usually in the
2000-4000 PSF (14-28 psi) range.

Many radiant heat manufacturers provide a plastic grid to tie your tubing
to. Others simply recommend something like #3 @ 16" to 18" o/c.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

Posted by Glenn on April 3, 2007, 12:50 pm
I've seen a lot of 6-6-6-6 (most is 6-6-10-10) used over
core-a-form(sp) around here and on the ground floor slabs too in
commericial buildings I've supervised although that was probably
45-50 years ago.


> In a previous post Buddy wrote...
>> I'll probably get corrected, but it's a reinforced slab set on
>> a well
>> drained gravel base generally above the surrounding ground
>> level without
>> a frost wall. As a former (now retired) concrete form builder,
>> I believe
>> that with a proper amount of rebar & 6" x 6" mesh wire, good
>> 'dry' pour
>> of cement, and a good cure, a slab that won't crack can be
>> made. Works
>> best on free-standing buildings such as a garage. My extension
>> has been
>> prepared by digging down a foot into the clay, and then back
>> filled with
>> screened rocks. Drainage pipe runs around the perimeter. I like
>> at least
>> a 5.5" pour.
>>
>
> Buddy:
>
> I concur with much of what you said about trying to make a slab
> on grade
> as crack free as possible, but I have a few suggestions.
>
> Eliminate the 6x6 mesh. It will do nothing to prevent cracks.
> Here's why:
> in order for the steel to pick up any stress it must stretch a
> certain
> amount (strain). The strain required for the steel mesh to pick
> any
> significant load is enough to allow the concrete to crack (they
> must move
> together). The only way around this is to put in a fairly large
> amount of
> steel so that only a small strain is required for the steel to
> pick up the
> load.
>
> Using less water in the mix is the best idea. Use of water
> reducing
> agents (plasticizers) can help workability. I once specified a
> printing
> plant slab mix with 7 sacks per cubic yard and only 3 gallons of
> water per
> sack of cement instead of the more usual 6 gallons. In the mix
> was a high
> range water reducer. I recommended that the contractor use
> double his
> normal finish crew because the concrete was going to set up
> fast. Worked
> like a charm! We got a glass smooth slab with no cracks.
>
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com


Posted by Matt Whiting on April 3, 2007, 7:14 pm
Bob Morrison wrote:
> In a previous post Buddy wrote...
>> I'll probably get corrected, but it's a reinforced slab set on a well
>> drained gravel base generally above the surrounding ground level without
>> a frost wall. As a former (now retired) concrete form builder, I believe
>> that with a proper amount of rebar & 6" x 6" mesh wire, good 'dry' pour
>> of cement, and a good cure, a slab that won't crack can be made. Works
>> best on free-standing buildings such as a garage. My extension has been
>> prepared by digging down a foot into the clay, and then back filled with
>> screened rocks. Drainage pipe runs around the perimeter. I like at least
>> a 5.5" pour.
>>
>
> Buddy:
>
> I concur with much of what you said about trying to make a slab on grade
> as crack free as possible, but I have a few suggestions.
>
> Eliminate the 6x6 mesh. It will do nothing to prevent cracks. Here's why:
> in order for the steel to pick up any stress it must stretch a certain
> amount (strain). The strain required for the steel mesh to pick any
> significant load is enough to allow the concrete to crack (they must move
> together). The only way around this is to put in a fairly large amount of
> steel so that only a small strain is required for the steel to pick up the
> load.
>
> Using less water in the mix is the best idea. Use of water reducing
> agents (plasticizers) can help workability. I once specified a printing
> plant slab mix with 7 sacks per cubic yard and only 3 gallons of water per
> sack of cement instead of the more usual 6 gallons. In the mix was a high
> range water reducer. I recommended that the contractor use double his
> normal finish crew because the concrete was going to set up fast. Worked
> like a charm! We got a glass smooth slab with no cracks.
>

This is one area where pre or post-tensioned concrete really shines.

Matt

Posted by Bob Morrison on April 3, 2007, 7:55 pm
In a previous post Matt Whiting wrote...
> This is one area where pre or post-tensioned concrete really shines.
>

Matt:

You are correct. PT slabs on grade aren't used much here in the Pacific
NW. Elevated PT slabs however are used all the time.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

Posted by Michael Bulatovich on April 3, 2007, 4:53 pm

>I keep seeing this expression floating slab. It's a term not familiar to
>me. Do you mean a reinforced suspended slab or maybe one on the ground and
>subject to raising and falling an inch or so each season? Confess I have
>never seen concrete float.

http://tinyurl.com/ywmh93

Happens all the time.
--


MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca



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