Best way to flash this roof to wall intersection?

Posted by HerHusband on July 7, 2009, 8:03 pm

I am in the process of rebuilding a section of my in-laws 100 year old
house. Originally, the back of the house was an open porch which was
"closed in" at some point with a hodge-podge of scrap windows and boards.

http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/original.jpg

The porch area was severely rotten, so we tore it all out and reframed.
Of course, the existing house dips and leans in various directions, so we
had to try to make the best compromise between plumb walls and meeting up
with the old work.

To make the process even more difficult, there is an old carport (closed
in at some point in the past) right in front of the back wall. This
really made it hard to tear out the old work and get the new walls in
place. It's not pretty, but we managed. I still have some work to do,
but for now I sheathed over the two new window openings until the windows
arrive.

http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/roof1.jpg
http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/roof2.jpg

The carport is not physically connected to the house, even though there's
only a couple inches between them. Obviously, without support on the open
end, the carport has racked to the side about 4 inches. At some point the
carport will have to be rebuilt, but that's a future project outside the
scope of this work.

So, I'm trying to figure out the best way to flash the intersection of
the house and carport. My main concern is keeping water out of the house,
which I can accomplish by just continuing the siding behind the end of
the carport. But, I don't really want water coming in at the gap between
the two buildings either.

I don't know how stable the carport is. It may continue racking in the
future, or it may have leaned as far as it's going to. But, I don't want
to compromise the new work by tying into an uncertain carport.

My in-laws had a new roof put on a couple of years ago, and the roofers
just covered the top of the carport step flashing with a board and
caulked the top where it attached to the wall. While I'm not crazy about
that approach, I can't really think of a better option.

What would you do?

Thanks,

Anthony

Posted by jloomis on July 7, 2009, 9:21 pm

I wouldn't connect them if you have future plans for tearing out the old
carport.....
Why do all this nice work, and flash it to a carport that is going south?

You do have a conundrum here......
The step flashing looks good that you have, but the integrity of a "moving
carport" is not so good.
john

>I am in the process of rebuilding a section of my in-laws 100 year old
> house. Originally, the back of the house was an open porch which was
> "closed in" at some point with a hodge-podge of scrap windows and boards.
> http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/original.jpg
> The porch area was severely rotten, so we tore it all out and reframed.
> Of course, the existing house dips and leans in various directions, so we
> had to try to make the best compromise between plumb walls and meeting up
> with the old work.
> To make the process even more difficult, there is an old carport (closed
> in at some point in the past) right in front of the back wall. This
> really made it hard to tear out the old work and get the new walls in
> place. It's not pretty, but we managed. I still have some work to do,
> but for now I sheathed over the two new window openings until the windows
> arrive.
> http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/roof1.jpg
> http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/roof2.jpg
> The carport is not physically connected to the house, even though there's
> only a couple inches between them. Obviously, without support on the open
> end, the carport has racked to the side about 4 inches. At some point the
> carport will have to be rebuilt, but that's a future project outside the
> scope of this work.
> So, I'm trying to figure out the best way to flash the intersection of
> the house and carport. My main concern is keeping water out of the house,
> which I can accomplish by just continuing the siding behind the end of
> the carport. But, I don't really want water coming in at the gap between
> the two buildings either.
> I don't know how stable the carport is. It may continue racking in the
> future, or it may have leaned as far as it's going to. But, I don't want
> to compromise the new work by tying into an uncertain carport.
> My in-laws had a new roof put on a couple of years ago, and the roofers
> just covered the top of the carport step flashing with a board and
> caulked the top where it attached to the wall. While I'm not crazy about
> that approach, I can't really think of a better option.
> What would you do?
> Thanks,
> Anthony

Posted by HerHusband on July 7, 2009, 11:59 pm

John,

> I wouldn't connect them if you have future plans for tearing out the
> old carport.....

That's the catch, "I" don't have any plans to rebuild the carport. In fact,
I doubt current setbacks would allow it to be rebuilt in the same location
anyway.

In other words, the carport may be standing (leaning) as-is for another 20
years, and I'd like to keep the gap relatively dry.

> the integrity of a "moving carport" is not so good.

I have no idea if it's still moving, only the evidence it has moved in the
past. It's been there at least 25 years that I know of, and I never knew
it was leaning till I put a level on it last week.

New work is SO much easier than this remodeling stuff... :)

Anthony

Posted by jloomis on July 8, 2009, 12:12 am

I would then, treat the carport as existing.....
Put some strong walls in the carport.....fix it up
Attach the carport to the house.......just like a new building....
Why keep the gap?
Wall it off, head it off, turn it into interior closet storage.......
I have done a lot of retrofits......literally turned chicken sh......t into
chicken soup.
Just finished and old wood shed.....turned it into a Lawyers Office....
He loves it.....
We were going to bulldoze.....
Nope, saved it, resided, put a new layer of concrete on the old crap....
Sheetrock, wire, paint, bathroom, coffee area...voila.....
Office....
john

> John,

>> I wouldn't connect them if you have future plans for tearing out the
>> old carport.....

> That's the catch, "I" don't have any plans to rebuild the carport. In
> fact,
> I doubt current setbacks would allow it to be rebuilt in the same location
> anyway.
> In other words, the carport may be standing (leaning) as-is for another 20
> years, and I'd like to keep the gap relatively dry.

>> the integrity of a "moving carport" is not so good.

> I have no idea if it's still moving, only the evidence it has moved in the
> past. It's been there at least 25 years that I know of, and I never knew
> it was leaning till I put a level on it last week.
> New work is SO much easier than this remodeling stuff... :)
> Anthony

Posted by HerHusband on July 8, 2009, 10:20 am

> I would then, treat the carport as existing.....
> Put some strong walls in the carport.....fix it up
> Attach the carport to the house.......just like a new building....
> Why keep the gap?
> Wall it off, head it off, turn it into interior closet storage.......

I'll have to think about it. I considered trying to straighten up the
carport, but the other side of the roof is attached in places (poorly),
there is wiring running between the two buildings, and there's a limited
headroom situation on the inside where the back door steps down to the
carport. Not to mention the current roof flashing is a good inch or two
away from the new wall. I don't know if there's enough flex to fit it
under the siding without messing with the new roof. Will have to wait and
investigate more when I'm on site next weekend.

I can see the carport quickly turning into a big job I don't want to get
into.

> I have done a lot of retrofits.

I'm just an overzealous amateur, but we built our own garage, house, and
a few sheds. I'm used to keeping everything level and plumb, being able
to make nice square walls and tilt them up, etc. So it's a whole new
experience for me trying to build new walls in a crooked house, jacking
things up and hoping they don't come crashing down on us, dealing with
dirt, rot, etc. :) I have a lot of respect for folks who do that kind of
work for a living...

On the other hand, when I see the original work and subsequent remodels,
I feel pretty good about the work I'm doing. :) It's like they pieced
together the house with whatever scraps they could find. The kitchen wall
we just opened, for instance, is a jumbled collection of two foot long
studs criss-crossing every direction.

http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/wall.jpg

Weird. Joist spacings are all over the place too (14", 16", 10", 21",
etc...) The most impressive thing about the old work is the size of the
large beams (8"x8"x 40'), and all the joists are 24' long spanning the
entire width of the house (full 2" wide rough cut lumber). When we
remodeled the bathroom a couple of years ago, I envisioned how big and
tough plumbers must have been back then. That old bathtub had to weigh
500 pounds, and the cast iron piping wasn't much better. I had it pretty
easy with a steel tub and plastic pipe. :)

> Just finished and old wood shed. turned it into a Lawyers Office.
> He loves it.... We were going to bulldoze.....

Sounds nice. We had an old shed we were going to tear down after we built
our house, but I decided to unbolt it from the slab, jack it up, and
dragged it around to the back of the house. We poured a new slab
underneath, bolted it back down, added a shed roof on the end for
firewood storage, and a new coat of paint and shingles. Looks like new
now, like it had always been there. It was a good feeling knowing we
were able to reuse it rather than just adding to the landfill.

http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/before.jpg
http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/after1.jpg
http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/after2.jpg

Thanks,

Anthony

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