Best way to flash this roof to wall intersection?

Posted by HerHusband on July 8, 2009, 7:01 pm

Wayne,

> The instructions I used to fabricate kickout flashings can be found at
> this web site: <http://www.kickout.info/csto.html>. They are talking
> about stucco siding, but the principle is independent of the type of
> siding.

Thanks for the link! I was looking into a premanufactured kickout flashing
like this: http://www.dryflekt.com/

But I haven't seen them locally, and don't really want to wait around for
shipping. Making my own would be preferable, considering it's likely a one
time task.

> If the side-wall/roof gap is permanent, then an alternative to the
> Z-flashing is to redo the roof step flashing so that the upper legs
> are against the house. It would be fine to have a small exposed
> "valley" on the roof against the house, so you wouldn't have to change
> the roof shingles at all. It shouldn't be too hard, once you remove
> the existing flashing, which is nailed to the roof deck. You would
> just slide each piece of step flashing under the row of shingles, and
> nail it to side wall only.

Hmm... Something to consider. Thanks.

Anthony

Posted by Cabot on July 8, 2009, 9:31 pm

> Wayne,
> Thanks for the link! I was looking into a premanufactured kickout
> flashing
> like this: http://www.dryflekt.com/

This is harder for me to write, than to just show you! 8-(

There's no need to buy a diverter. You didn't say if you have a brake
handy. For a diverter, you _can_ get by without one, a brake will give you
a cleaner look. Assuming no brake, take a piece of step (5x7"?), measure or
eye 2 or 3", tin snip the bottom (horizontal) leg of the "L" almost to the
vertical leg. Simply fold so the uncut part of the L, is almost to a 90.
The cut leg will slip _under_ the other bottom leg. You may have to trim
some off, depending on how far you fold it. You then trim the actual
diverter on an angle, you only need 2-3" on the height, which will show at
the highest point. 3/4" on the lowest point of angle.

> But I haven't seen them locally, and don't really want to wait around for
> shipping. Making my own would be preferable, considering it's likely a
> one
> time task.

>> If the side-wall/roof gap is permanent, then an alternative to the
>> Z-flashing is to redo the roof step flashing so that the upper legs
>> are against the house. It would be fine to have a small exposed
>> "valley" on the roof against the house, so you wouldn't have to change
>> the roof shingles at all. It shouldn't be too hard, once you remove
>> the existing flashing, which is nailed to the roof deck. You would
>> just slide each piece of step flashing under the row of shingles, and
>> nail it to side wall only.

> Hmm... Something to consider. Thanks.
> Anthony

Without telling you about how I would do it. It doesn't sound like you want
to get into reworking shingles, felt up the wall etc. So I'll stick with
the counter flashing.

This is where a brake is almost a must. If you are going to have a piece of
coil on the wall, with no crimps or bends, it will be flimsy.

I would cut a 6 or 8" strip assuming you're using 24" coil, probably do
them in manageable lengths of 4 or 5 ft.
Do a slight bend towards wall, 1" down from top, so when you tack it to
_wall_ not through step, it will hug the wall. On the bottom which is near
roofline, a _slight_ bend _outwards_ from wall, at another 1". Keep the
counter off roof, just lay an old piece of 1x material on the roof, this
will keep you off the roof 3/4". You won't have to be fussing with a tape
measure this way. Once your counter is tacked in place, remove the 1"x
material. If you do the counter in shorter pieces, just be sure to start @
gutter edge & work up, overlapping the counter 2" at seams.

The bends will give you a clean appearance, without wavy material. Of
course you probably know that.

Posted by Wayne Whitney on July 8, 2009, 12:29 am

> So, I'm trying to figure out the best way to flash the intersection
> of the house and carport.

Structural issues of the carport aside, the conventional solution, I
believe, is to run the building paper on the side wall over the step
flashing from the carport roof, and then to run your siding over the
building paper. Both the building paper and the siding are kept back
1" or so from the corner of the step flashing. Also, I believe the
bottom step flashing should be a kick-out flashing.

Cheers, Wayne

Posted by HerHusband on July 8, 2009, 10:23 am

> Structural issues of the carport aside, the conventional solution, I
> believe, is to run the building paper on the side wall over the step
> flashing from the carport roof, and then to run your siding over the
> building paper. Both the building paper and the siding are kept back
> 1" or so from the corner of the step flashing. Also, I believe the
> bottom step flashing should be a kick-out flashing.

Thanks Wayne! I've been studying techniques for flashing roof to wall
intersections and your recommendations agree with everything I've read.

Take care,

Anthony

Posted by Cwatters on July 8, 2009, 3:06 pm

> So, I'm trying to figure out the best way to flash the intersection of
> the house and carport.

The car port roof already has soakers fitted (soakers are what we in the UK
call the upstands in this photo
http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/roof2.jpg).

I would probably..

1) Fix up the car port so it's not moving.

2) Fix an L shape strip of lead or similar flashing to the house over the
existing soakers on the carport roof. The vertical part of the L should be
around 6" (150mm). The horizontal part around 2" but not critical as the
soakers form the seal. Only nail through the top of the vertical part of the
L not through the soakers.

3) Fix weatherboards to the house down over the lead (I believe you call
weatherboard "siding").

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