Best way to flash this roof to wall intersection?

Posted by HerHusband on July 12, 2009, 11:39 am

Just a brief followup...

> I am in the process of rebuilding a section of my in-laws 100 year old
> house. Originally, the back of the house was an open porch which was
> "closed in" at some point with a hodge-podge of scrap windows and
> boards.
> http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/original.jpg

I worked on my in-laws place again yesterday, and after stripping away
some of the trim boards, I discovered the carport wasn't as racked as I
initially thought. Maybe 1" out of plumb instead of the 3-4" I originally
measured. That's straighter than the house itself, good news there.

So, I started connecting the carport with the house structure, and by the
time I got the sheathing built out for an even plane up the entire wall,
I was happy to discover the flashing fit tightly against the sheathing
as-is. It's a bit angled near the bottom, but not enough to be an issue.

http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/flashing.jpg

So, the siding will lap the flashing just fine. I decided to just order
the Dryflekt kickout diverter flashing so that should take care of the
water running down the wall at the intersection. I still need to replace
the fascia board near the house, but otherwise it's all good to go. The
windows are supposed to arrive this week, so I should be able to get
those in next weekend.

New problem (more accurately, an old problem), the carport is built on a
simple concrete slab. This put the siding/sheathing way too close to the
ground, 2" at most, almost touching in other areas. As you would expect,
the siding near the ground has serious rot issues.

http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/ground.jpg

Obviously, building a new foundation is out of the question right now, as
is adding a row of block or bricks at the bottom of the wall. So, I'm
looking for more of a "quick fix" make-do solution. I wish I could do
the job properly, but it's just not within the constraints of time or
budget right now.

So, I'm thinking of ripping off the bottom 6-8" of the rotted siding, and
attaching a strip of something a bit more waterproof. I initially thought
of using something like cement based Hardie siding, but I don't know if
it would hold up in a near ground contact situation like that?

Another option might be composite decking like Trex, but again, I don't
know if it would hold up in ground contact? Also, it's a lot thicker
than I need (1-1/2 vs. 1/2") so I would have to rip it into thinner
strips. But for that to look nice I would need to run them through my
planer afterwards, and I have no idea if composite decking material can
be planed successfully? I've only seen Trex in 2x6 sizes, so it's a
little shorter (5-1/2") than I had hoped, but it's better than nothing if
the thickness and rot resistance worked out.

The other option I thought of is that PVC trim board material.
Unfortunately, I can't say I've ever seen it available locally, and I
believe it's only available in white?

I haven't used any of these products myself, so I have no experience with
them. Are there any other options I may have overlooked?

Thanks,

Anthony

Posted by PeterD on July 12, 2009, 6:25 pm

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 15:39:45 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband

>Just a brief followup...

>> I am in the process of rebuilding a section of my in-laws 100 year old
>> house. Originally, the back of the house was an open porch which was
>> "closed in" at some point with a hodge-podge of scrap windows and
>> boards.
>> http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/original.jpg

>I worked on my in-laws place again yesterday, and after stripping away
>some of the trim boards, I discovered the carport wasn't as racked as I
>initially thought. Maybe 1" out of plumb instead of the 3-4" I originally
>measured. That's straighter than the house itself, good news there.
>So, I started connecting the carport with the house structure, and by the
>time I got the sheathing built out for an even plane up the entire wall,
>I was happy to discover the flashing fit tightly against the sheathing
>as-is. It's a bit angled near the bottom, but not enough to be an issue.
>
>http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/flashing.jpg
>So, the siding will lap the flashing just fine. I decided to just order
>the Dryflekt kickout diverter flashing so that should take care of the
>water running down the wall at the intersection. I still need to replace
>the fascia board near the house, but otherwise it's all good to go. The
>windows are supposed to arrive this week, so I should be able to get
>those in next weekend.
>New problem (more accurately, an old problem), the carport is built on a
>simple concrete slab. This put the siding/sheathing way too close to the
>ground, 2" at most, almost touching in other areas. As you would expect,
>the siding near the ground has serious rot issues.
>http://www.mountain-software.com/clark/ground.jpg
>Obviously, building a new foundation is out of the question right now, as
>is adding a row of block or bricks at the bottom of the wall. So, I'm
>looking for more of a "quick fix" make-do solution. I wish I could do
>the job properly, but it's just not within the constraints of time or
>budget right now.
>So, I'm thinking of ripping off the bottom 6-8" of the rotted siding, and
>attaching a strip of something a bit more waterproof. I initially thought
>of using something like cement based Hardie siding, but I don't know if
>it would hold up in a near ground contact situation like that?

Maybe relandscaping (remove some of the ground, improve drainage,
etc.) would resolve some if not most problems.

>Another option might be composite decking like Trex, but again, I don't
>know if it would hold up in ground contact? Also, it's a lot thicker
>than I need (1-1/2 vs. 1/2") so I would have to rip it into thinner
>strips.

Uh, no, not Trex. It's plastic, won't rip into thinner forms easily
(maybe with a band saw) and AFAIK it is not stable enough if made too
thin.

> But for that to look nice I would need to run them through my
>planer afterwards, and I have no idea if composite decking material can
>be planed successfully?

Would you run a plastic milk bottle through your planer? Thats
'basically' what Trex is, the same type of plastic, and other
materials.

> I've only seen Trex in 2x6 sizes, so it's a
>little shorter (5-1/2") than I had hoped, but it's better than nothing if
>the thickness and rot resistance worked out.
>The other option I thought of is that PVC trim board material.
>Unfortunately, I can't say I've ever seen it available locally, and I
>believe it's only available in white?
>I haven't used any of these products myself, so I have no experience with
>them. Are there any other options I may have overlooked?
>Thanks,
>Anthony

Posted by HerHusband on July 12, 2009, 11:17 pm

> Maybe relandscaping (remove some of the ground, improve drainage,
> etc.) would resolve some if not most problems.

Unfortunately, that's not an option. As it is, the house and carport kind
of sit in a depression compared to the surrounding houses and the yard is
already sloped away from the buildings as much as possible.

> Uh, no, not Trex. It's plastic, won't rip into thinner forms easily
> (maybe with a band saw) and AFAIK it is not stable enough if made too
> thin.

I have a band saw, and whatever I use will be backed with a heavy wood that
sits on the carport slab. So it doesn't have to be overly sturdy.

> Would you run a plastic milk bottle through your planer? Thats
> 'basically' what Trex is, the same type of plastic, and other
> materials.

That's kind of what I figured but since I've never worked with it I thought
maybe I didn't understand it fully. Thanks for confirming.

Thanks,

Anthony

Posted by DT on July 17, 2009, 9:12 am

>>Another option might be composite decking like Trex, but again, I don't
>>know if it would hold up in ground contact? Also, it's a lot thicker
>>than I need (1-1/2 vs. 1/2") so I would have to rip it into thinner
>>strips.

>Uh, no, not Trex. It's plastic, won't rip into thinner forms easily
>(maybe with a band saw) and AFAIK it is not stable enough if made too
>thin.

Trex is wood and plastic composite, I believe. At any rate, it works just
fine with ordinary woodworking tools. I ripped deck boards down the middle
on my bandsaw to make trim boards for my porch. I have routed the ends of
boards with round-over bits. I kept all my scraps and have made a number of
brackets, etc out of Trex, it is a great material for working with.

It is available in 3/4" trim boards anyway, although they are much more
expensive than the deck boards.

--
Dennis

Posted by Wayne Whitney on July 12, 2009, 8:15 pm

> The other option I thought of is that PVC trim board material.
> Unfortunately, I can't say I've ever seen it available locally, and
> I believe it's only available in white?

I believe that paintable versions are available. And my understanding
is that of the various solutions you proposed, this is really the only
one that is satisfactory in the long term.

Cheers, Wayne

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