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Bricklaying - adding a new wall at right-angles to an existing one

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Subject Author Date
Bricklaying - adding a new wall at right-angles to an existing one Mortimer 03-01-2008
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Posted by Mortimer on March 1, 2008, 5:18 pm
A friend has a compost heap in her garden. It is surrounded by 3-foot-high
brick walls on three sides and a breeze-block wall at the back. It's on a
concrete base.

She wants to add a dividing brick wall within it to separate it into two
halves.

What is the best way of tying this wall into the existing ones so it doesn't
fall over. Is it necessary to dig out some of the exisiting mortar to insert
metal "butterfly" ties and then re-mortar around them, and then incorporate
those ties into the new courses of bricks?

(view in a fixed-pitch font)

============T==========
T
|
|
|
T
============T==========


= existing brickwork
- new brickwork
T butterfly tie



Posted by jloomis on March 2, 2008, 9:47 am
I would simplify the compost heap construction.
Not use brick.
Use 2 angle irons say from an old bed frame, and bolt those with concrete
screws to the brick.
space them about 1 1/2" apart or the size of a 2x12. Stack 2x12 for the
separation.
In many compost bins you will find this construction since you can stack as
you fill and unstack as you use the compost.
jloomis


>A friend has a compost heap in her garden. It is surrounded by 3-foot-high
>brick walls on three sides and a breeze-block wall at the back. It's on a
>concrete base.
>
> She wants to add a dividing brick wall within it to separate it into two
> halves.
>
> What is the best way of tying this wall into the existing ones so it
> doesn't fall over. Is it necessary to dig out some of the exisiting mortar
> to insert metal "butterfly" ties and then re-mortar around them, and then
> incorporate those ties into the new courses of bricks?
>
> (view in a fixed-pitch font)
>
> ============T==========
> T
> |
> |
> |
> T
> ============T==========
>
>
> = existing brickwork
> - new brickwork
> T butterfly tie
>



Posted by tmurf.1@juno.com on March 3, 2008, 8:14 pm
> I would simplify the compost heap construction.
> Not use brick.
> Use 2 angle irons say from an old bed frame, and bolt those with concrete
> screws to the brick.
> space them about 1 1/2" apart or the size of a 2x12. =A0Stack 2x12 for the=

> separation.
> In many compost bins you will find this construction since you can stack a=
s
> you fill and unstack as you use the compost.
> jloomis
>
>
>
>
>
> >A friend has a compost heap in her garden. It is surrounded by 3-foot-hig=
h
> >brick walls on three sides and a breeze-block wall at the back. It's on a=

> >concrete base.
>
> > She wants to add a dividing brick wall within it to separate it into two=

> > halves.
>
> > What is the best way of tying this wall into the existing ones so it
> > doesn't fall over. Is it necessary to dig out some of the exisiting mort=
ar
> > to insert metal "butterfly" ties and then re-mortar around them, and the=
n
> > incorporate those ties into the new courses of bricks?
>
> > (view in a fixed-pitch font)
>
> > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DT=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0T
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|
> > =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0T
> > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3DT=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
> > =3D =A0 =A0existing brickwork
> > - =A0 =A0new brickwork
> > T =A0 =A0butterfly tie- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Some simple wall ties installed with masonry nails or tapcons should
do a fine job. You can drive the masonry nails into the existing
mortar joints with a good sized hammer or drill the tapcons into the
joints through the wallties for a perfectly good tie in.

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