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Posted by Kevin on July 20, 2008, 8:30 am
I'm putting together my gameplan for building (actually rebuilding) a small
shed for the yard. It's going to be a 10' x 16' saltbox. I have a couple of
questions I was hoping someone could help me with. First, on of the 16'
walls will be partially below grade (the shed is going to be built into a
small slope) so I plan to use pressure treated sheathing on that part, as
well as applying an additional wood preservative (cuprinol or other
product?). Should I also apply another barrier such as plastic sheeting or
typar? And would I gain anything by also using pressure treated studs to
build the walls that are below grade? My initial thought was to build a 3 or
4' knee wall on the offending side and then build another wall section from
regular studs to attach to the top. The question that arrises with method
two, how do I frame the windows in. Assuming there would be a double
sill/header where the knee wall meets the upper wall section would I need
additional jack studs in the knee wall, under the window edges?
Second area of concern is the "foundation". The floor of the shed will be
crushed stone. I plan to dig a trench under footprint and put in 8" to 10"
of crushed stone with drain pipe just inside the walls, then lay 6x6 PT
timbers surrounded by crushed stone with the tops at grade of the finished
floor and then build on top of those (PT sill plates would be nailed to the
6x6 posts. Does this seem like a horrible idea? The current construction
(not my project) utilized 4x4 posts installed at the corners of the shed.
They were put in at least 2' into the ground (I haven't dug any further to
see just how deep they were) and they continued up the the top of the wall
of the shed (existing shed is gambrel style so the wall is only 4' above
ground before the roof angle). Does this seem like a better idea or even an
acceptable method? to be honest, despite all the problems with the current
shed, It does seem that the 4 corners are still square.
Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
Kevin
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Posted by Steve Barker DLT on July 20, 2008, 8:54 am
How much under grade? Personally, I think I'd build a concrete block 'wall'
for the wall that's under grade. Never have to worry about it then.
Probably wouldn't cost any more than the PT lumber.
show/hide quoted text
> I'm putting together my gameplan for building (actually rebuilding) a
> small shed for the yard. It's going to be a 10' x 16' saltbox. I have a
> couple of questions I was hoping someone could help me with. First, on of
> the 16' walls will be partially below grade (the shed is going to be built
> into a small slope) so I plan to use pressure treated sheathing on that
> part, as well as applying an additional wood preservative (cuprinol or
> other product?). Should I also apply another barrier such as plastic
> sheeting or typar? And would I gain anything by also using pressure
> treated studs to build the walls that are below grade? My initial thought
> was to build a 3 or 4' knee wall on the offending side and then build
> another wall section from regular studs to attach to the top. The question
> that arrises with method two, how do I frame the windows in. Assuming
> there would be a double sill/header where the knee wall meets the upper
> wall section would I need additional jack studs in the knee wall, under
> the window edges?
> Second area of concern is the "foundation". The floor of the shed will be
> crushed stone. I plan to dig a trench under footprint and put in 8" to 10"
> of crushed stone with drain pipe just inside the walls, then lay 6x6 PT
> timbers surrounded by crushed stone with the tops at grade of the finished
> floor and then build on top of those (PT sill plates would be nailed to
> the 6x6 posts. Does this seem like a horrible idea? The current
> construction (not my project) utilized 4x4 posts installed at the corners
> of the shed. They were put in at least 2' into the ground (I haven't dug
> any further to see just how deep they were) and they continued up the the
> top of the wall of the shed (existing shed is gambrel style so the wall is
> only 4' above ground before the roof angle). Does this seem like a better
> idea or even an acceptable method? to be honest, despite all the problems
> with the current shed, It does seem that the 4 corners are still square.
> Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
> Kevin
>
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Posted by Kevin on July 20, 2008, 9:26 am
> How much under grade? Personally, I think I'd build a concrete block
> 'wall' for the wall that's under grade. Never have to worry about it
> then. Probably wouldn't cost any more than the PT lumber.
> s
Only about 2 1/2' is below grade which seems like it might be a bit of work
to do concrete block for such a small area.
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Posted by Steve Barker DLT on July 20, 2008, 3:16 pm
well 4 courses of block the length of the building. Ya, it would probably
take 3 hours or so.
show/hide quoted text
>> How much under grade? Personally, I think I'd build a concrete block
>> 'wall' for the wall that's under grade. Never have to worry about it
>> then. Probably wouldn't cost any more than the PT lumber.
>> s
> Only about 2 1/2' is below grade which seems like it might be a bit of
> work to do concrete block for such a small area.
>
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Posted by Dioclese on July 20, 2008, 9:29 am
> I'm putting together my gameplan for building (actually rebuilding) a
> small shed for the yard. It's going to be a 10' x 16' saltbox. I have a
> couple of questions I was hoping someone could help me with. First, on of
> the 16' walls will be partially below grade (the shed is going to be built
> into a small slope) so I plan to use pressure treated sheathing on that
> part, as well as applying an additional wood preservative (cuprinol or
> other product?). Should I also apply another barrier such as plastic
> sheeting or typar? And would I gain anything by also using pressure
> treated studs to build the walls that are below grade? My initial thought
> was to build a 3 or 4' knee wall on the offending side and then build
> another wall section from regular studs to attach to the top. The question
> that arrises with method two, how do I frame the windows in. Assuming
> there would be a double sill/header where the knee wall meets the upper
> wall section would I need additional jack studs in the knee wall, under
> the window edges?
> Second area of concern is the "foundation". The floor of the shed will be
> crushed stone. I plan to dig a trench under footprint and put in 8" to 10"
> of crushed stone with drain pipe just inside the walls, then lay 6x6 PT
> timbers surrounded by crushed stone with the tops at grade of the finished
> floor and then build on top of those (PT sill plates would be nailed to
> the 6x6 posts. Does this seem like a horrible idea? The current
> construction (not my project) utilized 4x4 posts installed at the corners
> of the shed. They were put in at least 2' into the ground (I haven't dug
> any further to see just how deep they were) and they continued up the the
> top of the wall of the shed (existing shed is gambrel style so the wall is
> only 4' above ground before the roof angle). Does this seem like a better
> idea or even an acceptable method? to be honest, despite all the problems
> with the current shed, It does seem that the 4 corners are still square.
> Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
> Kevin
All things being equal, seems the 2 side walls will also have some below
grade as well.
Some obvious landscaping, on the side where the high slope is, may prevent
or reduce eventual soil and plant debris buildup. Ideally, will cause
runoff to go around the shed.
Insects and other small varmints can be concern on such a floor you've
described.
--
Dave
Bailout: Friend, relative, business acquaintance
paying a sum to get the accused
out of jail until court is ready to proceed.
Bailout: U.S. taxpayers paying a sum of
money for some critical business failure
that was fleecing the taxpayer to begin
with.
Somehow, the word "bailout" seems
very different.
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> small shed for the yard. It's going to be a 10' x 16' saltbox. I have a
> couple of questions I was hoping someone could help me with. First, on of
> the 16' walls will be partially below grade (the shed is going to be built
> into a small slope) so I plan to use pressure treated sheathing on that
> part, as well as applying an additional wood preservative (cuprinol or
> other product?). Should I also apply another barrier such as plastic
> sheeting or typar? And would I gain anything by also using pressure
> treated studs to build the walls that are below grade? My initial thought
> was to build a 3 or 4' knee wall on the offending side and then build
> another wall section from regular studs to attach to the top. The question
> that arrises with method two, how do I frame the windows in. Assuming
> there would be a double sill/header where the knee wall meets the upper
> wall section would I need additional jack studs in the knee wall, under
> the window edges?
> Second area of concern is the "foundation". The floor of the shed will be
> crushed stone. I plan to dig a trench under footprint and put in 8" to 10"
> of crushed stone with drain pipe just inside the walls, then lay 6x6 PT
> timbers surrounded by crushed stone with the tops at grade of the finished
> floor and then build on top of those (PT sill plates would be nailed to
> the 6x6 posts. Does this seem like a horrible idea? The current
> construction (not my project) utilized 4x4 posts installed at the corners
> of the shed. They were put in at least 2' into the ground (I haven't dug
> any further to see just how deep they were) and they continued up the the
> top of the wall of the shed (existing shed is gambrel style so the wall is
> only 4' above ground before the roof angle). Does this seem like a better
> idea or even an acceptable method? to be honest, despite all the problems
> with the current shed, It does seem that the 4 corners are still square.
> Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
> Kevin
>