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Posted by tbasc@bellsouth.net on July 20, 2008, 11:00 am
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> I'm putting together my gameplan for building (actually rebuilding) a sma=
> shed for the yard. It's going to be a 10' x 16' saltbox. I have =A0a coup=
le of
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> questions I was hoping someone could help me with. First, on of the 16'
> walls will be partially below grade (the shed is going to be built into a
> small slope) so I plan to use pressure treated sheathing on that part, as
> well as applying an additional wood preservative (cuprinol or other
> product?). Should I also apply another barrier such as plastic sheeting o=
> typar? And would I gain anything by also using pressure treated studs to
> build the walls that are below grade? My initial thought was to build a 3=
or
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> 4' knee wall on the offending side and then build another wall section fr=
> regular studs to attach to the top. The question that arrises with method
> two, how do I frame the windows in. Assuming there would be a double
> sill/header where the knee wall meets the upper wall section would I need
> additional jack studs in the knee wall, under the window edges?
> Second area of concern is the "foundation". The floor of the shed will be
> crushed stone. I plan to dig a trench under footprint and put in 8" to 10=
"
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> of crushed stone with drain pipe just inside the walls, then lay 6x6 PT
> timbers surrounded by crushed stone with the tops at grade of the finishe=
> floor and then build on top of those (PT sill plates would be nailed to t=
> 6x6 posts. Does this seem like a horrible idea? The current construction
> (not my project) utilized 4x4 posts installed at the corners of the shed.
> They were put in at least 2' into the ground (I haven't dug any further t=
> see just how deep they were) and they continued up the the top of the wal=
> of the shed (existing shed is gambrel style so the wall is only 4' above
> ground before the roof angle). Does this seem like a better idea or even =
> acceptable method? to be honest, despite all the problems with the curren=
> shed, It does seem that the 4 corners are still square.
> Thanks in advance for any help and advice.
> Kevin
Why not work the land on the up-hill sides of the building?
2 1/2 inches shouldn't take a lot of work.
I would consider a curtain drain / french drain on three sides with
discharge down-slope.
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> twice.