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Cleaning paint brushes Mark 09-27-2006
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Posted by Mark on September 27, 2006, 11:53 pm
I do a lot of painting with alkyd (oil-based) paints, and most of my
brushes are "heeled up" (paint has dried in the area at the base of
the bristles.)

Any suggestions for how to effectively clean my new brushes so
that this doesn't happen again? Soaking them in mineral spirits
and spinning them dry doesn't seem to get the paint out of the
heel.

Thanks
-Mark



Posted by New Wave Dave on September 28, 2006, 9:16 am

>I do a lot of painting with alkyd (oil-based) paints, and most of my
> brushes are "heeled up" (paint has dried in the area at the base of
> the bristles.)
>
> Any suggestions for how to effectively clean my new brushes so
> that this doesn't happen again? Soaking them in mineral spirits
> and spinning them dry doesn't seem to get the paint out of the
> heel.

Brush comb for starters. HD sells them, a flat wooden handle with a
dozen or so pointed steel teeth. Use it to work solvent into the
bristles and help it penetrate the ferule. You will stick yourself
several times before learning to avoid the needle-like teeth of the
comb.
Then use clean solvent as a final rinse working it through the
bristles by hand.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston



Posted by dpb on September 28, 2006, 11:18 am

Mark wrote:
> I do a lot of painting with alkyd (oil-based) paints, and most of my
> brushes are "heeled up" (paint has dried in the area at the base of
> the bristles.)
>
> Any suggestions for how to effectively clean my new brushes so
> that this doesn't happen again? Soaking them in mineral spirits
> and spinning them dry doesn't seem to get the paint out of the
> heel.
...

The first step is conditioning the brush before using it--dip it fully
into the appropriate thinner for the paint _prior_ to each use and then
remove the excess, then paint. This prevents the paint that does get
in the heel from drying and being so difficult to remove when cleaning.

Second, when painting, be very careful to not over-dip and get paint
into the heel to have to remove it. Particularly when working overhead
be especially conscious of controlling flow--put the paint on the
brush, then efficiently transfer it to the surface rather than letting
it run down into the heel.

Third, especially on hot days or long full-day sessions, take a moment
every so often to repeat step one and make a mini-cleanup if the brush
is getting messy.

Lastly, when you then do get to the cleaning step, be thorough. You
can reuse the solvent several times (almost indefinitely, in fact, if
you decant it) for the first passes, then a small batch of fresh for
the final rinse. If you're continuing the next day, you can hang
(don't rest it on the bristles) the brush in a can of solvent. When
you're done for good, follow the solvent w/ a strong detergent and
water regimen ending w/ clean water.

The key is step one ime. HTH...

Oh, one last thought--Step zero is to start with a quality brush...


Posted by M&S on September 28, 2006, 8:39 pm
dpb wrote:
> Mark wrote:
>
>>I do a lot of painting with alkyd (oil-based) paints, and most of my
>>brushes are "heeled up" (paint has dried in the area at the base of
>>the bristles.)
>>
>>Any suggestions for how to effectively clean my new brushes so
>>that this doesn't happen again? Soaking them in mineral spirits
>>and spinning them dry doesn't seem to get the paint out of the
>>heel.
>
> ...
>
> The first step is conditioning the brush before using it--dip it fully
> into the appropriate thinner for the paint _prior_ to each use and then
> remove the excess, then paint. This prevents the paint that does get
> in the heel from drying and being so difficult to remove when cleaning.
>
> Second, when painting, be very careful to not over-dip and get paint
> into the heel to have to remove it. Particularly when working overhead
> be especially conscious of controlling flow--put the paint on the
> brush, then efficiently transfer it to the surface rather than letting
> it run down into the heel.
>
> Third, especially on hot days or long full-day sessions, take a moment
> every so often to repeat step one and make a mini-cleanup if the brush
> is getting messy.
>
> Lastly, when you then do get to the cleaning step, be thorough. You
> can reuse the solvent several times (almost indefinitely, in fact, if
> you decant it) for the first passes, then a small batch of fresh for
> the final rinse. If you're continuing the next day, you can hang
> (don't rest it on the bristles) the brush in a can of solvent. When
> you're done for good, follow the solvent w/ a strong detergent and
> water regimen ending w/ clean water.
>
> The key is step one ime. HTH...
>
> Oh, one last thought--Step zero is to start with a quality brush...
>

Great reply dpb, fantastic info.

Mark


Posted by TakenEvent on October 11, 2006, 12:47 pm

>
> Mark wrote:
> > I do a lot of painting with alkyd (oil-based) paints, and most of my
> > brushes are "heeled up" (paint has dried in the area at the base of
> > the bristles.)
> >
> > Any suggestions for how to effectively clean my new brushes so
> > that this doesn't happen again? Soaking them in mineral spirits
> > and spinning them dry doesn't seem to get the paint out of the
> > heel.
> ...
>
> The first step is conditioning the brush before using it--dip it fully
> into the appropriate thinner for the paint _prior_ to each use and then
> remove the excess, then paint. This prevents the paint that does get
> in the heel from drying and being so difficult to remove when cleaning.
>
> Second, when painting, be very careful to not over-dip and get paint
> into the heel to have to remove it. Particularly when working overhead
> be especially conscious of controlling flow--put the paint on the
> brush, then efficiently transfer it to the surface rather than letting
> it run down into the heel.

Your first two steps are incompatible. A brush dipped in thinner, even if
spun, will still have some thinner in it. As soon as the brush gets paint
on it, some of the paint will thin down and run into bristles right down to
the ferrule - and then down onto the user's hand. There is no need to
condition a brush for oil-based paints if one is using a brush designed for
oil-based paints. I tried brush conditioners and linseed oil years ago and
gave them up as a worthless endeavor. My oil brushes are in perfect
condition and last years. Trust me, skip the conditioning.



>
> Third, especially on hot days or long full-day sessions, take a moment
> every so often to repeat step one and make a mini-cleanup if the brush
> is getting messy.

That is, if you notice paint starting to cake on to the point where the
brush is hard to use. This is more important for latex than for oil, which
is much more responsive to thinner than latex is to water.


>
> Lastly, when you then do get to the cleaning step, be thorough. You
> can reuse the solvent several times (almost indefinitely, in fact, if
> you decant it) for the first passes, then a small batch of fresh for
> the final rinse. If you're continuing the next day, you can hang
> (don't rest it on the bristles) the brush in a can of solvent. When
> you're done for good, follow the solvent w/ a strong detergent and
> water regimen ending w/ clean water.

Never mix oil and water. Allow me to qualify that: It is possible to use
the same brush for oil and latex, but be damn sure that the brush is
completely dry before switching products. It's always better to have
separate paint brushes for oil and latex, though all-paints brushes
typically used for latex sometimes benefit from the occasional usage in oil.



>
> The key is step one ime. HTH...
>
> Oh, one last thought--Step zero is to start with a quality brush...
>
>




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