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Posted by Dan Deckert on January 3, 2007, 12:25 am
All new construction!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A 4 wall loft built into a 30x50 shop. (all wood framed utilizing 3 exterior
walls)
The loft floor is 16x30, with 7'6" ceiling @ the eaves, utilizing the end
wall. 30' wide and protruding 16' into the 50' length of the bldg. Loft will
have a bathroom (6'x16') with a load bearing wall (2x6) underneath at one
end of the 30' span which would leave an open span of 24'.
_____________________________________________ 30' wide
| |
| | <bathroom 6'x16'
| <exterior wall |
| <exterior wall
| |
| |
--------- <-16' long |<2x6
load bearing wall
^ This interior wall will also be a 2x6 wall ^ around 9~12' @ the
peak.
As the owner would like a clearspan for the 24', I need some input as what
he could/can use for sub framing for the span. The clearance is currently
7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the loft. He'd
'like' to avoid the use of structural steel members for the span. And since
I know darn near diddley about wood framing for loads, I need some
input/suggestions to make this span.
On a guessing side, I was looking at those weird I-beams made of wood and am
guessing they'd be about 14~16" deep for this. The owner is 6'1" and has
concerns for "head knocking"! So we're looking @ a minimum depth for the
span. 7'-6" minus whatever to stay above his 6'-1" head. Cap/hat/boots not
included!
FYI; His cost for rough cut lumber (full 2x6) is $720/2k board feet. Hence,
lumber costs are not a real issue here.
Any suggestions/advice are welcome. I can provide JPEG image, ACAD or
Sketchup drawings if it would help.
I'm also damn jealous on his lumber costs........................
Dan
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Posted by DAvid Norris on January 3, 2007, 5:18 am
show/hide quoted text
> he could/can use for sub framing for the span. The clearance is currently
> 7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the loft.
You said Top of Steel, you're showing your roots
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Posted by Dan Deckert on January 3, 2007, 10:29 pm
TOS---Top of Slab.....??? LOL Yer probably right on the mark
tho..............
Dan
show/hide quoted text
> > he could/can use for sub framing for the span. The clearance is
currently
show/hide quoted text
> > 7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the loft.
> You said Top of Steel, you're showing your roots
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Posted by <moo on January 3, 2007, 6:07 pm
you know i read this 3 times and i am still lost heh
anyway seems you want to span an area with decking?
when you do this you have 2 choices for joists
increase the width of the lumber
decrease the distance between
if you dont want to use a steel I as a support
you may want to have a fletch plate which is
1/4" steel bolted between two 2x12s
you can also look into glue laminated beams
it looks like really thick osb kinda
they are about the shape/size of timbers
and are often used as a header over wide garage doors
or wood ibeams next to eachother
or wood trusses for beams
so call a truss company fax them a sketch
they will tell you what you need
hope that helps
remember you can always wrap the Ibeam in wood
and center it between the joists and use saddle connectors to hide it
show/hide quoted text
> All new construction!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> A 4 wall loft built into a 30x50 shop. (all wood framed utilizing 3
> exterior
> walls)
> The loft floor is 16x30, with 7'6" ceiling @ the eaves, utilizing the end
> wall. 30' wide and protruding 16' into the 50' length of the bldg. Loft
> will
> have a bathroom (6'x16') with a load bearing wall (2x6) underneath at one
> end of the 30' span which would leave an open span of 24'.
> _____________________________________________ 30' wide
> |
> | |
> |
> | | <bathroom 6'x16'
> | <exterior wall
> |
> | <exterior wall
> |
> | |
> |
> | |
> --------- <-16' long
> |<2x6
> load bearing wall
> ^ This interior wall will also be a 2x6 wall ^ around 9~12' @ the
> peak.
> As the owner would like a clearspan for the 24', I need some input as what
> he could/can use for sub framing for the span. The clearance is currently
> 7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the loft. He'd
> 'like' to avoid the use of structural steel members for the span. And
> since
> I know darn near diddley about wood framing for loads, I need some
> input/suggestions to make this span.
> On a guessing side, I was looking at those weird I-beams made of wood and
> am
> guessing they'd be about 14~16" deep for this. The owner is 6'1" and has
> concerns for "head knocking"! So we're looking @ a minimum depth for the
> span. 7'-6" minus whatever to stay above his 6'-1" head. Cap/hat/boots not
> included!
> FYI; His cost for rough cut lumber (full 2x6) is $720/2k board feet.
> Hence,
> lumber costs are not a real issue here.
> Any suggestions/advice are welcome. I can provide JPEG image, ACAD or
> Sketchup drawings if it would help.
> I'm also damn jealous on his lumber costs........................
> Dan
>
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Posted by Bobk207 on January 3, 2007, 6:15 pm
Dan Deckert wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> All new construction!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> A 4 wall loft built into a 30x50 shop. (all wood framed utilizing 3 exterior
> walls)
> The loft floor is 16x30, with 7'6" ceiling @ the eaves, utilizing the end
> wall. 30' wide and protruding 16' into the 50' length of the bldg. Loft will
> have a bathroom (6'x16') with a load bearing wall (2x6) underneath at one
> end of the 30' span which would leave an open span of 24'.
> _____________________________________________ 30' wide
> |
> | |
> |
> | | <bathroom 6'x16'
> | <exterior wall |
> | <exterior wall
> |
> | |
> |
> | |
> --------- <-16' long |<2x6
> load bearing wall
> ^ This interior wall will also be a 2x6 wall ^ around 9~12' @ the
> peak.
> As the owner would like a clearspan for the 24', I need some input as what
> he could/can use for sub framing for the span. The clearance is currently
> 7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the loft. He'd
> 'like' to avoid the use of structural steel members for the span. And since
> I know darn near diddley about wood framing for loads, I need some
> input/suggestions to make this span.
> On a guessing side, I was looking at those weird I-beams made of wood and am
> guessing they'd be about 14~16" deep for this. The owner is 6'1" and has
> concerns for "head knocking"! So we're looking @ a minimum depth for the
> span. 7'-6" minus whatever to stay above his 6'-1" head. Cap/hat/boots not
> included!
> FYI; His cost for rough cut lumber (full 2x6) is $720/2k board feet. Hence,
> lumber costs are not a real issue here.
> Any suggestions/advice are welcome. I can provide JPEG image, ACAD or
> Sketchup drawings if it would help.
> I'm also damn jealous on his lumber costs........................
> Dan
Dan-
Took me a while to find what you needed but looks like you really
didn't need much help (just a little reassurance)
http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-4000.pdf This pdf gives you the basics
For a 24' clear span (a residential loft type structure) I would a have
guessed a 14" TJI
If you want the floor the feel stiffer (less bounce) bump up to 16"
deep or a wider flanged 14"
..........if you get the TJI's from a knowledgeable supplier they will
be able to evaluate your situation.
Where is this being built? You might consider checking with the local
building dept or get an engineer to take a look at your design
cheers
Bob
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> 7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the loft.