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Subject Author Date
Clear Span Query Dan Deckert 01-03-2007
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Posted by Dan Deckert on January 3, 2007, 10:46 pm

> Dan-
>
> Took me a while to find what you needed but looks like you really
> didn't need much help (just a little reassurance)
>
> http://www.ilevel.com/literature/TJ-4000.pdf

gonna look @ these

I just don't know what's being used or is available in wood for clear spans.
Engineered beams are acceptable for the owner, he just needs the headroom.

> ..........if you get the TJI's from a knowledgeable supplier they will
> be able to evaluate your situation.

Good thought for me to go after

> Where is this being built? You might consider checking with the local
> building dept or get an engineer to take a look at your design
> cheers
> Bob

Built in the county with basically no requirements but an
electrical/water/septic inspection. All dwgs. will go before an engineer for
stamp/approval. It may be a hick county but we're going past that point for
assurance/insurance/longevity. We're just trying to get everything in place
for a plan review & approval by an engineer prior to submittals. The owner
will overbuild rather then underbuild.

Dan



Posted by HerHusband on January 4, 2007, 11:03 am
Dan,

> A 4 wall loft built into a 30x50 shop.
> (all wood framed utilizing 3 exterior walls)
> The loft floor is 16x30, with 7'6" ceiling @ the eaves, utilizing the
> end wall. 30' wide and protruding 16' into the 50' length of the bldg.
> Loft will have a bathroom (6'x16') with a load bearing wall (2x6)
> underneath at one end of the 30' span which would leave an open span
> of 24'.
> As the owner would like a clearspan for the 24', I need some input as
> what he could/can use for sub framing for the span. The clearance is
> currently 7'-6" from TOS to the bottom of the 2x6' floor joists of the
> loft. He'd 'like' to avoid the use of structural steel members for the
> span. And since I know darn near diddley about wood framing for loads,
> I need some input/suggestions to make this span.
> FYI; His cost for rough cut lumber (full 2x6) is $720/2k board feet.
> Hence, lumber costs are not a real issue here.

What kind of loads are you expecting to put in the loft?

For sleeping areas or light storage, you could use regular 2x12's at 12" OC
to freespan 24' (See the span calculator below)

http://www.cwc.ca/design/tools/calcs/SpanCalc_2002/

As a reference, I used 2x12's at 16"OC to span our 24' wide garage. It is
way too bouncy for a living area, but works fine for storage or walking
around. I wouldn't want to store truck engines or a library up in our
attic, but for light storage (Christmas decorations, suitcases, camping
supplies, plastic pipe, etc.) it has worked well for us.

Reducing the joist spacing to 12" OC would stiffen it up further. If lumber
costs are not an issue, using 2x12's might have advantages.

Otherwise, you could probably use 14" or 16" wood I-joists.

Of course, adding a single post and beam in the middle of that span would
greatly reduce the size of the joists.

Anthony

Posted by Dan Deckert on January 4, 2007, 10:16 pm
Anthony, my only concern at this juncture is the 24' freespan. That span
will be supporting a floor to roof wall with all the stuff upstairs. In this
case, a kitchen w/counters/dishwasher/fridge etc. and cupboards plus an
armoire. This '480 sq. ft. loft' as it were, will be used to provide full
living, albeit cramped & small, quarters for weekend visits and during
construction of the house. Afterwards, it's a crapshoot, although I suspect
the bed and armoire will be gone so it can be used for a
get-away-from-the-wife room. When my dial-up connection gets back to speed,
I'll run your spancalc to see what I can glean from them.

As for > Of course, adding a single post and beam in the middle of that span
would
> greatly reduce the size of the joists.
Aint' gonna happen..................at least according to the
owner................yet.............:-)

Dan


> What kind of loads are you expecting to put in the loft?
>
> For sleeping areas or light storage, you could use regular 2x12's at 12"
OC
> to freespan 24' (See the span calculator below)
>
> http://www.cwc.ca/design/tools/calcs/SpanCalc_2002/
>
> As a reference, I used 2x12's at 16"OC to span our 24' wide garage. It is
> way too bouncy for a living area, but works fine for storage or walking
> around. I wouldn't want to store truck engines or a library up in our
> attic, but for light storage (Christmas decorations, suitcases, camping
> supplies, plastic pipe, etc.) it has worked well for us.
>
> Reducing the joist spacing to 12" OC would stiffen it up further. If
lumber
> costs are not an issue, using 2x12's might have advantages.
>
> Otherwise, you could probably use 14" or 16" wood I-joists.
>
> Of course, adding a single post and beam in the middle of that span would
> greatly reduce the size of the joists.
>
> Anthony



Posted by Bobk207 on January 5, 2007, 1:31 pm

Dan Deckert wrote:
> Anthony, my only concern at this juncture is the 24' freespan. That span
> will be supporting a floor to roof wall with all the stuff upstairs. In this
> case, a kitchen w/counters/dishwasher/fridge etc. and cupboards plus an
> armoire. This '480 sq. ft. loft' as it were, will be used to provide full
> living, albeit cramped & small, quarters for weekend visits and during
> construction of the house. Afterwards, it's a crapshoot, although I suspect
> the bed and armoire will be gone so it can be used for a
> get-away-from-the-wife room. When my dial-up connection gets back to speed,
> I'll run your spancalc to see what I can glean from them.
>
> As for > Of course, adding a single post and beam in the middle of that span
> would
> > greatly reduce the size of the joists.
> Aint' gonna happen..................at least according to the
> owner................yet.............:-)
>
> Dan
>
>
> > What kind of loads are you expecting to put in the loft?
> >
> > For sleeping areas or light storage, you could use regular 2x12's at 12"
> OC
> > to freespan 24' (See the span calculator below)
> >
> > http://www.cwc.ca/design/tools/calcs/SpanCalc_2002/
> >
> > As a reference, I used 2x12's at 16"OC to span our 24' wide garage. It is
> > way too bouncy for a living area, but works fine for storage or walking
> > around. I wouldn't want to store truck engines or a library up in our
> > attic, but for light storage (Christmas decorations, suitcases, camping
> > supplies, plastic pipe, etc.) it has worked well for us.
> >
> > Reducing the joist spacing to 12" OC would stiffen it up further. If
> lumber
> > costs are not an issue, using 2x12's might have advantages.
> >
> > Otherwise, you could probably use 14" or 16" wood I-joists.
> >
> > Of course, adding a single post and beam in the middle of that span would
> > greatly reduce the size of the joists.
> >
> > Anthony

Dan-

Your gut is well informed.........2x12's over 24' is too lightly
framed for your application (unless of course you don't mind living /
walking on sprngs)

Anthony's example of 2x12 @ 16" oc over 24' for light storage / attic
in a garage is ok but even at 12" spacing 2x12's over 24' are too light
for a living space

It all depends on your desires downstream......

I've seen 22' spans (kitchen / living area) over a garage with 12" deep
floor trusses. The designer went 12" instead of 14" to shave floor
height on a multistory condo to keep within the overall height limit.

The owners hated the bouncy feeling & the retrofit was a real
pain...those extra 2" would have made a big difference.

Yeah, the TJI's aren't cheap but you'll get a much better result...esp
if the system gets much use downstream

I'd go with TJI's at 16" oc & a decent floor deck 5/8 min (3/4 better)
T&G

cheers
Bob


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