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Posted by Al Bundy on August 7, 2006, 7:40 pm
>
>> Of all the crap and gizmos I have I do not have any air tools!
>> <head hanging low in shame>
>>
>> Planning on picking up a general use compressor like the Porter
>> Cable.
>>
>> In the future I will likely be doing a roof. I usually just hand nail
>> since I never did an entire house in one shot. So a roofing nailer
>> will
> probably be
>> in the future as well. I could rent one but that forces hurrying to
>> get it done.
>>
>> Thought is if I just buy one of those econo Harbor Freight ones and
>> it lasts the job it'll cost less than renting more than a few days.
>>
>> Not knowing air tool details, I need some "look for"s and "look out
>> for"s. What I've picked up so far from nosing around the Harbor
>> Freight website is these coil roofing nailers vary. They have one for
>> $89/$99.
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92917
>>
>> Says it needs 2.5 CFM @ 90 PSI which is about the Porter Cable output
>> of like 2.6 @90 PSI. Connector is 1/4''- 18 NPT. Standard?
>>
>> They showed another, but MAGNESIUM COIL ROOFING NAILER, on sale for
>> $99 (reg 199).
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=932
>> 53
>>
>> Would guess it's better for a couple of reasons but noticed air
>> requirement is much much higher at 17. Saw a different one with air
>> req at 11. Why these big differences?
>>
>>
>> Nails:
>>
>> Some say 10 gauge. Others say 11 gague . The product spec sheets say
>> '0.12" (Approximately'. Is there some standard to look for here so
>> you don't have o get the crappy Harbor Freight nails? I see they are
>> listed as zinc coated vs galvanized.
>>
>> Help me out with some basics here. Thanks!
>
>
> The magnesium model is lighter and newer. The 2006 Craftsman catalog
> has their magnisium roofing nailer rated for 1.05 scfm @ 90 PSI,
> leading me to believe that the cheap tools are being sold on a cheap
> website. The guns you saw probably require 1.7 scfm and 1.1 scfm, not
> 17 and 11, which would require a compressor with its own trailer
> (well, the 17 scfm anyway). At the very least, it would require
> gas-powered jobsite compressor. I haven't seen one of those on a
> jobsite since 1997. (No commentary on gas-powered compressors is
> needed. My only objection is the price of gasoline and the constant
> noise. Noise annoys.)
>
> Here's what the manual for a Hitachi roofing nailer says:
>
> Air compressor size formula
> Amount of air required
> =number of Nailers
> × average nails driven each minute per Nailer
> × air consumption at given air pressure
> × safety factor (always 1.2)
> Example: 2 Nailers operating at 100 psi driving 30 nails
> per minute
> Amount of air required
> =2 × 30 × .035 (.99) × 1.2
> =2.5 CFM (ft3/min) (71 ltr/min)
> After making the calculations as shown above, you
> should find a compressor providing 2.5 CFM of air that
> is required.
>
> (end quote)
>
> The average jobsite compressor offers at least 3.8 scfm, and you can
> find compressors that offer 4.5 scfm in the same price range. The
> last time I looked into compressors, the Ridgid tested (independently)
> very well, and it offered 4.9 scfm @90PSI while rolling down an
> embankment or roof (not recommended, though). That's about the upper
> range for oil-free hand-carry jobsite compressors. We used to run 2
> roofing guns off of a Campbell-Hausfeld of about the same size quite
> easily.
>
> Have you looked into the rental prices in your area? Don't buy junky
> tools. If money is the issue, just rent or borrow. You'll probably
> spend half of what you would on a new piece of junk, and the headache
> factor will be greatly reduced.
>
> Trust me, you'll want to get the project over with as soon as possible
> anyway. The quicker the new roof is on, the fewer times you'll have
> to tarp it off and worry about rain. Plus, roofing in the summer
> sucks.
>
> As far as what to put in your gun, you'll need to read the boxes of
> nails or the instructions for the gun. Both should mention which
> nails work with which models.
>
> For asphalt shingles, Michigan Residential Code (2003) requires
> fasteners (nails) to be galvanized steel, stainless steel, aluminum,
> or copper, minimum 12 gage shank, minimum 3/8" head, and of sufficient
> length to penetrate the sheathing a minimum of 3/4" (19.1 mm) or
> through the thickness of the sheathing, whichever is less.
>
> Check with your local building inspector if you're unsure of the
> requirements in your area.
>
>
>
Thanks for taking the time to post the extended reply. I'll have to
digest it in detail as time permits along with any any others that come
up.
Thanks again,
Al...
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