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Posted by HerHusband on February 8, 2008, 10:09 am
We have installed concrete pavers for walkways and a small patio, but I am
considering using pavers for our driveway this summer.
I typically install a 4-6" compacted gravel base, then the 1" sand layer,
then install the pavers on top, sweep in sand, and compact again.
Are there any additional steps I need to take for a paver driveway?
Will I have any problems if a heavy vehicle (UPS truck for instance) drives
on the pavers?
Thanks,
Anthony
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Posted by Steve on February 8, 2008, 5:32 pm
alt.building.construction:
> We have installed concrete pavers for walkways and a small patio, but
> I am considering using pavers for our driveway this summer.
>
> I typically install a 4-6" compacted gravel base, then the 1" sand
> layer, then install the pavers on top, sweep in sand, and compact
> again.
>
> Are there any additional steps I need to take for a paver driveway?
>
> Will I have any problems if a heavy vehicle (UPS truck for instance)
> drives on the pavers?
The exact subbase you need depends on your local soil, and I mean local as
in on your lot. If you have soggy clay, you'll need different than dry
sand.
Check with the manufacturer. They have a vested interest in making sure
their product performs well, so they'll be happy to provide you with
recommendations.
Do you have a friend in construction? Offer to take him to dinner in
exchange for answering questions.
--
Steve B.
New Life Home Improvement
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Posted by Frank on February 8, 2008, 9:10 pm
> We have installed concrete pavers for walkways and a small patio, but I am
> considering using pavers for our driveway this summer.
>
> I typically install a 4-6" compacted gravel base, then the 1" sand layer,
> then install the pavers on top, sweep in sand, and compact again.
I use 1/4" minus instead of gravel. Its crush granite mix with particles no
larger than 1/4". When its compacted it will interlock given a stable base
and hard as rock. Compact the 1/4" minus but not the 1" sand.
>
> Are there any additional steps I need to take for a paver driveway?
>
Slope for water runoff and a good edging. My problem with pavers is that
over time, weeds will grow between the cracks. You may want to seal it to
have that wet look.
> Will I have any problems if a heavy vehicle (UPS truck for instance)
> drives
> on the pavers?
>
The interlocking paver is much harder than normal concrete mix plus it has a
little give due to the sand below so it won't crack like a concrete
driveway. Anyway, its much easier redoing a little section of the pavers
than replacing a cracked concrete driveway. Heavy vehicles shouldn't be a
problem. Our local Home Depot has the pavers as part of the store front with
truck traffic much heaver than UPS trucks. If you worry about heavy traffic,
go 12" base instead of 6". The paver manufacture should have installation
details for various situations.
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony
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Posted by HerHusband on February 8, 2008, 10:12 pm
> Slope for water runoff and a good edging.
Unfortunately, the parking area in front of our garage is kind of in a
hole. There's no where for the water to drain, but down. I'm planning to
install a driveway drain to carry away the water, and figured it would be a
good time to install pavers too.
I normally use a heavy-duty plastic eding with spikes, but will probably
pour a concrete curb on the sides that aren't already bordered with
sidewalks or foundations.
> My problem with pavers is that over time,
> weeds will grow between the cracks.
Yes, but they provide some drainage, are easy to make repairs when
necessary, and just look nicer than a poured concrete slab. They're also a
project I can do working alone or with my wife. Pouring concrete is a lot
more work. Been there, done that.
Thanks for the info.
Anthony
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Posted by Frank on February 12, 2008, 11:28 am
>> Slope for water runoff and a good edging.
>
> Unfortunately, the parking area in front of our garage is kind of in a
> hole. There's no where for the water to drain, but down. I'm planning to
> install a driveway drain to carry away the water, and figured it would be
> a
> good time to install pavers too.
>
> I normally use a heavy-duty plastic eding with spikes, but will probably
> pour a concrete curb on the sides that aren't already bordered with
> sidewalks or foundations.
>
>> My problem with pavers is that over time,
>> weeds will grow between the cracks.
>
> Yes, but they provide some drainage, are easy to make repairs when
> necessary, and just look nicer than a poured concrete slab. They're also a
> project I can do working alone or with my wife. Pouring concrete is a lot
> more work. Been there, done that.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> Anthony
Wife and I are in the process of pouring 15 yards of concrete, side and
backyard, by hand with an electric mixer - a little section at a time. We
have two mixers but one is all I could keep up with. We've done about over
30 yards before that way on various properties.
As for doing the driveways with interlocking pavers, it was all hard labor,
perhaps more than pouring concrete. Digging down 10" of hard soil by hand
was much more work than I anticipated. Should have rented out a Bobcat.
Tamping by hand will surly gives a good workout as well - I now have a plate
vibrator. And in my area, hauling dirt to the dumps cost $60 per yard -
ridiculous. The pros do about 200 concrete to every one brick driveway. When
they add color and stamp the concrete, it is just beautiful - most of the
drive pours in my area are done that way now. I'm not good enough, or fast
enough, to do stamping as I'm still at the mercy of weather conditions when
finishing concrete.
Anyway, not until I could do stamping with confidences, looks like my next
driveway project is pavers too. Good luck to you.
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