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Posted by Solomon_Man on May 31, 2007, 4:14 pm
> If the old lines crossed the footing, no big deal. If they ran
> the same way as the footing, you need to worry about compaction
> and dig down to undisturbed soil. An 8 inch pipe you can cut with
> a knife sounds huge for gray water, sounds more like an area
> drain. Deal with it after you stabilize the area.
>
> My plans, and please correct me if I am wrong, is the following;
>
> 1) I will get approval from the city that my footer and stone etc
> is good. I assume they are mostly concerned with depth, width,
> and straightness of the footer and the stone is 4 inch or better.
>
> What stone? Yes, they will be looking for frost depth. Footing
> inspection here would expect the steel in location, tied,
> supported, proper distance from dirt, correct laps, and corner
> bars. They really don't care if it is straight or over wide -
> those are things you need.
>
> 2) I will rebar the footer
>
> See above. Code here demands 2 #5 continuous, lapped 32 bar
> diameters where necessary, corner bars tied in.
>
> 3) I will bring in the concrete and pour the footer to the bottom
> of the stone. (stone started 4 inches below earth grade)
>
> The inspector may demand that reinforcing steel tie the slab to
> the footing, I would J bolts should extend into the reinforced
> footing zone. I guess you are talking about a gravel sub base
> under the slab. You will want finish floor well above the
> surrounding grade. Code wants 6" of fall in the first 10 feet
> away from the building as a minimum. So do you. You've not said
> what the garage was to be made of other than planning on a wood
> sill plate. Brick/siding/wood frame It would be best to have
> sheathing and/or siding to lap below the slab edge to seal the
> weather away. You will need at least 6" of concrete exposed below
> the siding for termites and rot, and then the six inches of fall.
> Many guys plan to form and pour the footing and slab at the same
> time. It is also fine to pour a footing and then form a stem wall
> or slab on top of the footing. The forms need to extend at least
> to the top of the slab, or extend a stem wall above the floor
> level to help with grade issues. It can be difficult to edge form
> at the outside of the footing as you cannot drive stakes, thus why
> many guys pour monolithic.
>
> 4) I will then place my forms (2X8s) and make sure everything is
> of correct size and square up the forms.
>
> If the 2x8 is an edge form, it is marginal at best, though this is
> subject to footing height. How are you planning to hold and brace
> the 2x8's? I hope you have batter boards up for the footing
> excavation already, they should be set to line and grade.
>
> 5) I will place my 6X6 10 Gauge wire mesh to the footer
>
> Remesh should be set on blocks before the pour. It has little or
> no value at the footing. It does nothing to strengthen the
> concrete, it is there to reduce crack separation. I would prefer
> not using it were it mine. Spend the time/money/effort on well
> compacted subgrade. If you parking tractors or buses, increase
> the depth of concrete and consider rebar reinforcement. You've
> not ever indicated what depth of concrete you intend.
>
> 6) I will then have the concrete brought in and will pour and
> level out with a Bull float/screeds/maybe even a power trowel.
>
> It is just a semantics problem. You set screeds to be able to
> "rod" the concrete. Once you have rodded the concrete to grade,
> you use a bull float to flatten, bring cream to the top, and fill
> and densify small holes. This is too much concrete for one man
> with limited experience. Make sure the bleed water comes off
> before you begin any type of finishing. Knee boards, hand float,
> and 2 trips with a hard trowel or power float and power trowel.
> If you have not ever used one, find someone who has.
>
> 7) I will then place the garage bolts for the sill board
>
> Set all J bolts in templates nailed to the forms. Do your
> go-zintas before the pour. They need to go into pretty wet
> concrete, you might as well get em set beforehand.
>
> 8) Spray on curing agent
>
> Are you casting recessed pockets for the overhead door(s). Level
> floor rather than pitched to drain or door? Are you casting a
> brick or sheathing pocket around the perimeter? If so, make sure
> to omit at doors and openings.
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
> dgriff...@7cox.net
>
>
>
>
>
> > All,
> > I am working on adding two garages on my property. The larger is
> > a
> > 24X32 and the smaller one is 14X20. My father was in
> > construction and
> > I have done about everything in-home construction, except, major
> > concrete. I have done sidewalks, patios, etc but nothing major.
> > This
> > is where my questions originate.
>
> > I have read a few books and gotten my permits. I marked out the
> > location of the new garages and squared them up over last week
> > after
> > work. Then last weekend, I broke ground with an excavator and a
> > large
> > bobcat. Knowing that I would be better off (concrete savings)
> > having a
> > professional dig the actual footer, I hired a friend of a friend
> > to
> > dig my footer and I operated the bobcat. Things went as expected
> > and
> > my figures for stone and supplies came out. I am preparing for
> > inspection and this morning I cleared out the roots from a few
> > trees
> > that sit in the back 30 feet of my property. I am planning on
> > pouring
> > the footer then the finished slab.
>
> > The one thing that I am concerned about is during the excavation
> > we
> > ran into two leach fields (at 3 feet down), an old septic leach
> > bed
> > and a leach bed from an old gray water system (at 2 feet down).
> > I am
> > positive that these systems are both no longer used and the main
> > tanks
> > are filled with sand. I know this for certain because I did this
> > and
> > the new sewer line to the house (120 feet)with my dad when the
> > city
> > sewer came to our area about 10 years ago. The septic system was
> > original with the house (50 years old) and was about 200 gallons
> > (very
> > very small) and the leach field was only 120 feet in a Y. The
> > gray
> > water system ran the washing machine and dishwasher only and was
> > 110
> > gallons and had only a 45 feet leach system but had a very large
> > diameter.
>
> > How is something like this normally handled?
>
> > I have, so far, crushed and removed them from the footer
> > entirely and
> > have filled them with foam and packed the ends with dirt and
> > stone
> > tightly. There was no water in either system as expected.
>
> > Are these pipes even a concern at this point?
>
> > My next question is concerning the next steps in the concrete
> > process.
>
> > My plans, and please correct me if I am wrong, is the following;
>
> > 1) I will get approval from the city that my footer and stone
> > etc is
> > good.
> > I assume they are mostly concerned with depth, width, and
> > straightness
> > of the footer and the stone is 4 inch or better.
> > 2) I will rebar the footer
> > 3) I will bring in the concrete and pour the footer to the
> > bottom of
> > the stone. (stone started 4 inches below earth grade)
> > 4) I will then place my forms (2X8s) and make sure everything is
> > of
> > correct size and square up the forms.
> > 5) I will place my 6X6 10 Gauge wire mesh to the footer
> > 6) I will then have the concrete brought in and will pour and
> > level
> > out with a Bull float/screeds/maybe even a power trowel.
> > 7) I will then place the garage bolts for the sill board
> > 8) Spray on curing agent
>
> > Now, I am considering having the above done after I get approval
> > from
> > the city inspection. As I have a friend who has a friend that
> > does
> > this for a living. I have seen his work and I think it looks
> > decent.
> > So everyone knows, this is very against my grain as I hire very
> > few
> > things out. My main concern is the man power behind this and the
> > skill
> > to do the final level/finish but I know getting to this point is
> > a
> > very big step.
>
> > Now what should I expect to pay outside the cost of materials to
> > have
> > him do this? What is the norm? I have been told he will bring in
> > 4
> > guys at $250 a day for the actual pour. What should form, rebar
> > and
> > mesh placement cost me?
>
> > I have another option to finish this concrete which is decent as
> > well.
> > I personally have a long time friend that is in the heavy
> > machine
> > operating trade (40 + years) and has done a lot of large scale
> > concrete/masonry in his life. I have seen his work and it is
> > decent.
>
> > Any opinions or suggestions?
>
> > Sorry for the rambling.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> > Solomon_Man- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
All,
The inspector came out and inspected, I got approved.
He said the pipes are no big deal as the tanks are sanded. Rebar and
mesh are not required but I am still going to do it to avoid the
cement from pulling apart if I ever have a problem.
The question now in my head is to do it myself or have someone do it.
The inspector said to do it myself. He said you did a fine job
(depth,width,straightness,stone,layout) on the excavation and that is
where most people screw up. So I now understand the process even more
after talking to the inspector, so I am thinking more about doing it
myself to save the cash. I dunno, I will price it out and make the
final decision.
I plan to put electrical in and will install what is necessary for
that in the concrete before I pour. I will not actually do electrical
till next year as the whole property will be upgraded.
Thanks for the help.
Chris
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