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Concrete slab for parking a car

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Concrete slab for parking a car Les Desser 11-09-2006
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Posted by Les Desser on November 15, 2006, 3:50 am

>I must be speaking to myself

Not quite

>when I recommend "Unreinforced Slabs on Grade". This an accepted and
>regularly used practice.

Accepted. I have thrown away the steel (metaphorically)
>
[...]
>
>Here's the basic procedure I recommend for residential parking areas
>and driveways:
>
>1. Clear of the organics and any top soil to the slab + base depth.
>2. Use a roller or plate compactor to compact the soil
>3. Spread at least 6 inches of 3/4" minus crushed rock.
>4. Use a roller or plate compactor to compact the gravel base
>5. Form the edges of the slab
>6. Pour at least 5 inches of concrete (6" for heavier traffic areas)

I'll be laying 8" over the base on which the old slab (about 4-5") sat.

>7. Within 12 hours cut crack control joints at least 1" deep.

The slab is about 15' x 11'. I don't suppose I need the cuts.

>8. Cure the slab for 2 weeks before loading.

Will do.
>
>You can also place a geotextile fabric between the soil and the gravel.

What would that be for?
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)

Posted by Bobk207 on November 15, 2006, 4:49 am

Les Desser wrote:
>
> >I must be speaking to myself
>
> Not quite
>
> >when I recommend "Unreinforced Slabs on Grade". This an accepted and
> >regularly used practice.
>
> Accepted. I have thrown away the steel (metaphorically)
> >
> [...]
> >
> >Here's the basic procedure I recommend for residential parking areas
> >and driveways:
> >
> >1. Clear of the organics and any top soil to the slab + base depth.
> >2. Use a roller or plate compactor to compact the soil
> >3. Spread at least 6 inches of 3/4" minus crushed rock.
> >4. Use a roller or plate compactor to compact the gravel base
> >5. Form the edges of the slab
> >6. Pour at least 5 inches of concrete (6" for heavier traffic areas)
>
> I'll be laying 8" over the base on which the old slab (about 4-5") sat.
>
> >7. Within 12 hours cut crack control joints at least 1" deep.
>
> The slab is about 15' x 11'. I don't suppose I need the cuts.
>
> >8. Cure the slab for 2 weeks before loading.
>
> Will do.
> >
> >You can also place a geotextile fabric between the soil and the gravel.
>
> What would that be for?
> --
> Les Desser


> >You can also place a geotextile fabric between the soil and the gravel.
>
> What would that be for?

The geotextile fabric keeps the gravel base from migrating into the
soil below.

But since the base material is already in place, probably not worth the
effort to R&R.

You're in London area, UK correct?

Bob Morrison.....frost issues? None if his base is well drained?

But why is the old slab of 4 to 5" being replaced? DId it fail?
Cause?

Les...it appears that we may have missed some of the details or perhaps
you did not include them......I got the impression that this slab was a
whole new project, not a redo of a failed one.

cheers
Bob


Posted by Les Desser on November 15, 2006, 5:27 am

>The geotextile fabric keeps the gravel base from migrating into the
>soil below.
>
>But since the base material is already in place, probably not worth the
>effort to R&R.

Agreed
>
>You're in London area, UK correct?
>
Yes

>Bob Morrison.....frost issues?

During installation or use?

> None if his base is well drained?

Temp here now is about 13 C. Based on recent experience no frost for
years to come!
>
>But why is the old slab of 4 to 5" being replaced? DId it fail?
>Cause?
>
A strip down the centre was cut out to lay new water pipe. I then
changed my car to a 4x4 which then cracked a part of the remaining
strip.

>Les...it appears that we may have missed some of the details or perhaps
>you did not include them......I got the impression that this slab was a
>whole new project, not a redo of a failed one.

Sorry - I thought that early on I had given some background - but maybe
not.
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)

Posted by Bobk207 on November 15, 2006, 3:37 pm

Les Desser wrote:
>
> >The geotextile fabric keeps the gravel base from migrating into the
> >soil below.
> >
> >But since the base material is already in place, probably not worth the
> >effort to R&R.
>
> Agreed
> >
> >You're in London area, UK correct?
> >
> Yes
>
> >Bob Morrison.....frost issues?
>
> During installation or use?
>
> > None if his base is well drained?
>
> Temp here now is about 13 C. Based on recent experience no frost for
> years to come!
> >
> >But why is the old slab of 4 to 5" being replaced? DId it fail?
> >Cause?
> >
> A strip down the centre was cut out to lay new water pipe. I then
> changed my car to a 4x4 which then cracked a part of the remaining
> strip.
>
> >Les...it appears that we may have missed some of the details or perhaps
> >you did not include them......I got the impression that this slab was a
> >whole new project, not a redo of a failed one.
>
> Sorry - I thought that early on I had given some background - but maybe
> not.
> --
> Les Desser


Actually Les, you did say it was a redo....but I'm always a little
worried that there can be a missing detail that can change the
suggestions

cheers
Bob


Posted by Bob Morrison on November 15, 2006, 10:34 am
In a previous post Bobk207 wrote...
> You're in London area, UK correct?
>
> Bob Morrison.....frost issues? None if his base is well drained?
>

BobK:

You are correct. If the base is well drained then there will be no frost
heave. It takes moisture that will freeze and expand.

BTW, you can get frost heave in the floor of a walk-in freezer if you
don't make sure the slab is well-drained.


--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

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