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Concrete slab question spebby_92 06-29-2007
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Posted by RicodJour on June 29, 2007, 2:06 pm
On Jun 29, 1:30 pm, spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Thanks RicodJour for your comments. Although I am a little confused
> now.
>
> RicodJour from your comments it appears a well constructed base is
> sufficient. Of course, with the cuts in the slab at an appropriate
> distance. I think I will get a third bid.

A third bid on two different techniques won't necessarily indicate the
better construction method. In general you want to get three bids on
the same thing so you can compare apples to apples.

> One other question: My water well will be in the new garage. Should
> the slab be isolated from the well's casing? I was thinking building
> a form around the casing and filling the void between the casing and
> concrete with pea gravel might be a good solution.

A highly respected, very knowledgeable and long time poster on this
newsgroup is out of commission at the moment. Here is a thread where
you can read what he has to say on the matter:
http://tinyurl.com/2hyeau

Bob is one of the few guys where I'll concede that his knowledge and
experience outweigh my own. Don't tell him that - I don't want his
head to explode. ;)

When you're searching for answers on, well, on almost anything, do a
google and click on the More link at the top of the results page, then
click on Groups in the drop down menu. That enables you to search
newsgroups and is a highly effective tool. Most of these questions
have been asked and answered before.

R


Posted by Bobk207 on June 29, 2007, 5:32 pm
> On Jun 29, 1:30 pm, spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> > Thanks RicodJour for your comments. Although I am a little confused
> > now.
>
> > RicodJour from your comments it appears a well constructed base is
> > sufficient. Of course, with the cuts in the slab at an appropriate
> > distance. I think I will get a third bid.
>
> A third bid on two different techniques won't necessarily indicate the
> better construction method. In general you want to get three bids on
> the same thing so you can compare apples to apples.
>
> > One other question: My water well will be in the new garage. Should
> > the slab be isolated from the well's casing? I was thinking building
> > a form around the casing and filling the void between the casing and
> > concrete with pea gravel might be a good solution.
>
> A highly respected, very knowledgeable and long time poster on this
> newsgroup is out of commission at the moment. Here is a thread where
> you can read what he has to say on the matter:http://tinyurl.com/2hyeau
>
> Bob is one of the few guys where I'll concede that his knowledge and
> experience outweigh my own. Don't tell him that - I don't want his
> head to explode. ;)
>
> When you're searching for answers on, well, on almost anything, do a
> google and click on the More link at the top of the results page, then
> click on Groups in the drop down menu. That enables you to search
> newsgroups and is a highly effective tool. Most of these questions
> have been asked and answered before.
>
> R

OP-

Per RIco's comments.....the merits (or lack thereof) of rebar vs fiber
reinforced concrete vs thicker unreinforced concrete have been
discussed & debated a number of times in the last year.

My bias is towards rebar but as Rico pointed out, 3" of concrete cover
to soil is kinda hard to do in a 4" slab. :)

Realistically, you've got to go to at least a 5.5 or 6" slab to
consider rebar

Additionally one normally settles on a design & then bids THAT
design....having two designs & one bid per design really doesn't give
you much info to work with.

I would suggest that you settle on a design and THEN bid it.

Here are some things (& numbers) to consider (my random slab on grade
thoughts)

You've got about 700 lbs of rebar.

You could "spend" the rebar $'s & go with a thicker (adding 2" of
concrete is about 4.5 yds in your pour)

Mix design, placement & curing will have major impact on concrete
strength & future performance.

Scoring your slab into 4 pieces is optimistic...in the 31' direction
that would be 15.5", that would be pushing it a little. For your slab
the MAX distance between cuts is about 12'. I would suggest cutting
31' / 3 & 24' / 2; it's always a tradeoff between more cuts & the
risk of uncontrolled cracks. :(

After the concrete cures, fill the crack with an elastomeric filler,
protects the edge & keeps crap out of it.

Despite my bias towards rebar.....adding thickness to the slab will
probably give you a better performing slab over rebar in a thinner
(thin) slab at lower cost.

IMO thickening the slab will be less than 50% of the rebar cost (SWAG)

The $1100 delta between bids is not all due to the rebar cost, there
is the contractor delta as well


Suggestion:

Ask the fiber mix guy;

1. cost increase to go to a true 6" (also check to see if the
original 4" bid was a 4" guaranteed min)
tell him the increase from 4" to 6" is 4.5 yds

2. cost increase to add rebar (700 lbs; 22 pieces @ 24' & 17 pcs @
31')


My biased recommendation & guessed best performing solution (& lowest
cost near second choice) ......

lose the fiber, go to 6", boost cement content, reduce water, add
rebar, use the fiber contractor
lose the fiber, go to 6", boost cement content, reduce water, no
rebar, use the fiber contractor



cheers
Bob



Posted by Dave on June 30, 2007, 12:42 am
First, I don't do any of this for a living. What I've seen when attaching
new concrete slab to an existing is using rebar as a tie. Basically, saw
impact drill used to make initial hole in existing slab. Then, the rebar
was beat into the hole. No fractures observed on the existing slab.
Approximately 3 feet of rebar was visible after all was done. Not sure
about penetration depth. They also dug a beam area immediately adjacent for
the new slab along the old slab. I live much further south, no footers
needed. No frost line concern. But, I think you may see the need for tying
the house to the garage if adjacent. Either slab may walk from the other.
I think you see the potential for disaster if this happens. Find a concrete
specialist that understands this and how to do it as applicable to your
frost zone area concerning the footers.
Dave
> Thanks Dave and Chuck, I appreciate the comments.
>
> The slab will be poured against the existing house slab. Should the
> new slab be "attached" to the existing slab in any way? For example,
> drilling holes in the existing slab and inserting re-bar. Neither
> bidder suggested "attaching" the new slab to the existing slab.
>
> The footer will be 14" wide and 18" deep. I am located in central
> Oklahoma and normally 18" is sufficient for frost. The slab will be
> poured as a monolithic slab. Will these footers be sufficient?
>
> Nothing heavier than a pick-up truck and car will be in the garage.
>
> The slab will be cut into 4 sections. Both bidders indicated the slab
> would be cut the same day it is poured.
>
> Chuck, from your comments it certainly appears I should go with the
> bid specifing #4 rebar 18 o.c. tied and on chairs. The slab will
> have a 4" sand base.
>



Posted by on June 30, 2007, 9:57 am
Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond to this post. I really
appreciate it.

RicodJour, I had read a number of posts by Bob Morisson and found him
to be very helpful. I also read the post about his absence and I wish
him the best. The main reason I posted these questions was to
understand what makes a good slab. I find it difficult to tell a
concrete contractor how to do his job, I know I don't appreciate that
in area of expertise. The two bids were so different in how the slab
would be poured is what confused me. And neither bid comes close to
what's recommended on this forum. I understand that the best way to
get bids is to have a design and have that design bid. I am not
capable of writing a concrete slab design. Both bidders stated sand
would be used for the base. Most expert posters on this site say the
best method is "a 6" compacted crushed rock" for the base, with a 5" -
6" unreinforced slab cut where no area is greater than 150 Sq. Ft.

Question: Can you further defined crushed rock? What should the
largest piece be in crushed rock for a base for a slab? What size
sieve should the crushed rock be able to pass?

I have taken the time to visit a number of job sites with different
builders, and have not seen crushed rock used in my area. The only
base I have seen is river sand. I have not seen re-bar used in any
garage slab. I am sure this varies based on the different soils and
drainage. Is it reasonable to assume in my area (Central Oklahoma)
that sand is a sufficient base?








Posted by DanG on June 30, 2007, 3:43 pm
Where are you in central Oklahoma? I'm in NW OKC. Fill sand is
quite normal as the final pad to make concrete grade. If you are
in a high water table area and being water proof is an important
consideration, you can put down 4-6" of #57 stone (up to 1 1/2"
concrete gravel) under the slab as a capillary break with vapor
barrier directly under the slab. These efforts are not normally
warranted under a garage slab, particularly if you have decent
drainage away from your site. If you are in an old gummy wheat
field, you may want to consider raising the pad area with red
select - rotten sandstone that can be well compacted (you will see
this quite normally on any commercial properties being brought
up). Ask abut a vapor barrier under the slab if you plan to
paint, epoxy, or tile the floor.

Code will require a minimum of 2 #5 bars in an 18" deep footing.
This footing can be and usually is poured monolithically with the
floor. With all this rain, you may want to dig the footing, place
the steel, and pour the footing quick before the next rain caves
it in. You won't be digging this for while anyway. In the last 2
weeks, I've dumped well over 10" out of the rain gauge, and I'm
pumping out my basement that hasn't been wet for over 10 years.
More predicted through the fourth.

I agree with others, a well compacted sub grade is more important
than rebar in a thin floor. Rebar is better than 6/6-10/10 mesh,
some suggest that fiber is equivalent to mesh. I would never let
any slab get larger than 12' in any direction without a saw joint
and it is critical that those joints be cut the same day as the
pour. You will help yourself a lot by curing the concrete.
Pigmented cure (the reason is pigmented is so everyone can see
that it was done) or clear is good - if you are planning a finish
on the floor someday, be very cautious using a chemical cure as
they are incompatible with almost all floor finishes. Wet burlap
kept wet for 7 days is better. Build a dirt dam around the
perimeter and keep it under water for 7 days is the best.

3500 # concrete with air. Slump maximum 4" ( don't let them add
very much water at the truck). Wet down the subgrade just before
the pour if you use fill sand. Make sure the bleed water has been
absorbed before any toweling of any type is performed. Pray for
an overcast day that is not too windy. The wind can cause
alligator cracking (small surface cracks caused by the top drying
too fast that are more cosmetic than structural).

Most any concrete man will promise two things:

The concrete will get hard. The concrete will crack. The reason
for the saw joints is to make the cracks happen in a reasonably
straight line.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net



> Thanks everyone for taking the time to respond to this post. I
> really
> appreciate it.
>
> RicodJour, I had read a number of posts by Bob Morisson and
> found him
> to be very helpful. I also read the post about his absence and
> I wish
> him the best. The main reason I posted these questions was to
> understand what makes a good slab. I find it difficult to tell
> a
> concrete contractor how to do his job, I know I don't appreciate
> that
> in area of expertise. The two bids were so different in how the
> slab
> would be poured is what confused me. And neither bid comes close
> to
> what's recommended on this forum. I understand that the best way
> to
> get bids is to have a design and have that design bid. I am not
> capable of writing a concrete slab design. Both bidders stated
> sand
> would be used for the base. Most expert posters on this site
> say the
> best method is "a 6" compacted crushed rock" for the base, with
> a 5" -
> 6" unreinforced slab cut where no area is greater than 150 Sq.
> Ft.
>
> Question: Can you further defined crushed rock? What should
> the
> largest piece be in crushed rock for a base for a slab? What
> size
> sieve should the crushed rock be able to pass?
>
> I have taken the time to visit a number of job sites with
> different
> builders, and have not seen crushed rock used in my area. The
> only
> base I have seen is river sand. I have not seen re-bar used in
> any
> garage slab. I am sure this varies based on the different soils
> and
> drainage. Is it reasonable to assume in my area (Central
> Oklahoma)
> that sand is a sufficient base?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>



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