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Concrete slab question spebby_92 06-29-2007
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Posted by Chuck on July 2, 2007, 3:12 am

>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 29, 12:32 am, spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
>> >> I am building a garage that will be attached to the house. The slab
>> >> size is 24' X 31'. The slab will have a 14" X 18" footer on all 4
>> >> sides with rebar. My question: I have received 2 bids for the job,
>> >> one with rebar in the 4" slab and one with no rebar in the 4" slab.
>> >> Both bids have rebar in the footer. The bid without rebar uses 3500
>> >> concrete with HP fiber. Is 3500 concrete with HP fiber equivalent to
>> >> 3500 with rebar? Should the grarage floor have re-bar regardless of
>> >> type concrete? There is $1,100 difference in the two bids. Both
>> >> bidders have provided good references. The re-bar bid is the higher
>> >> one. I don't mind paying the difference if re-bar is the better
>> >> option. The one with re-bar has the re-bar 18" o.c. Any comments will
>> >> be appreciated.
>>
>> > If the sub-grade is prepared correctly - drainage issues addressed,
>> > organic soil removed, gravel and insulation added as required,
>> > compaction - the rebar adds little if any benefit. Concrete cracks -
>> > all concrete cracks. The rebar will not prevent cracking, but it will
>> > prevent gross movement between sections on either side of the crack.
>> > If there's enough movement between sections of the slab that the rebar
>> > is called upon to do work, the slab has already failed.
>>
>> > The fiberglass additive is designed to limit cracking on a small
>> > scale. As Chuck mentioned, creating control joints to induce the slab
>> > to crack where you want it to crack is a good idea. I'd space the
>> > control joints every eight or ten feet both ways.
>>
>> > BTW, unless that rebar is epoxy coated it's a bad idea to install
>> > rebar in a 4" slab. The IRC requires 3" of concrete coverage between
>> > the soil and the rebar.
>>
>> > R
>>
>> This depends on the local authority regarding the slab on grade. The 3
>> inch
>> clear space is for a footing or slab placed in soil without form work and
>> directly in soil. I have experienced building departments that allow
>> the 4
>> inch slab with rebar at the mid depth if the slab is placed on 4inch to 6
>> inch gravel sub base and vapor barrier. It depends on how the building
>> codes is interpolated.
>
> No doubt there will be substantial variance between building
> departments' interpretations of the code, and the code will also vary
> from place to place. I'm not arguing code requirements - arguing with
> a building inspector is often an exercise in futility. I just don't
> consider code - generally the minimum acceptable construction quality
> - to be the be all and end all of construction.
>
> Rebar in thin slabs has several fatal flaws. The standard practice is
> far from the recommended practice - typically rebar is placed without
> any attempt at raising it above the bottom of the slab, then when the
> concrete is placed, the workers pull up on the rebar in an attempt to
> position it in the middle of the slab. This is not a good practice.
> Other times it is raised up on brick pieces - also not a good
> practice.
>
> My major objection to rebar in a thin slab is that it can't do what
> people think it is doing when they spec it and install it. Rebar does
> essentially no work when place in the middle of the slab - the neutral
> axis. Rebar is meant to take the tension that concrete can't. That
> requires the rebar to be near the tension side of the slab/beam, not
> in the center. Placed in the center of the slab rebar only does work
> if the slab has already failed. In other words, rebar in a thin slab
> is planning on having the slab fail. That's backwards.
>
> Slab failures can be entirely prevented by proper sub-grade and site
> preparation. That preparation is a better way to spend the money than
> on rebar.

I was always understood that when you are using 'Ultimate Strength Design"
the concrete has already cracked and the rebar is yielding. Isn't this
considered as concrete failure???? The plastic neutral axis is not the
middle of the slab and is just be low the top of the slab ( ' a'/.85 of the
compression block ) and the location of rebar 'd' is located at mid depth.
You are saying that it doesn't work even though compression equals tension
and the moment capacity exceeds the factored moment required.
This is the same way you would design a steel composite slab considering
compression block in the slab portion to take the compression and the steel
beam to take the tension. Are you saying this process is incorrect?

Even so, the slab on grade rebar is minimum at mid depth primarily
temperature reinforcing to minimize cracking. The slab on grade needs to be
placed on a sub base of gravel with vapor barriers if required.

CID...



Posted by RicodJour on July 2, 2007, 8:31 am
>
> > Rebar in thin slabs has several fatal flaws. The standard practice is
> > far from the recommended practice - typically rebar is placed without
> > any attempt at raising it above the bottom of the slab, then when the
> > concrete is placed, the workers pull up on the rebar in an attempt to
> > position it in the middle of the slab. This is not a good practice.
> > Other times it is raised up on brick pieces - also not a good
> > practice.
>
> > My major objection to rebar in a thin slab is that it can't do what
> > people think it is doing when they spec it and install it. Rebar does
> > essentially no work when place in the middle of the slab - the neutral
> > axis. Rebar is meant to take the tension that concrete can't. That
> > requires the rebar to be near the tension side of the slab/beam, not
> > in the center. Placed in the center of the slab rebar only does work
> > if the slab has already failed. In other words, rebar in a thin slab
> > is planning on having the slab fail. That's backwards.
>
> > Slab failures can be entirely prevented by proper sub-grade and site
> > preparation. That preparation is a better way to spend the money than
> > on rebar.
>
> I was always understood that when you are using 'Ultimate Strength Design"
> the concrete has already cracked and the rebar is yielding. Isn't this
> considered as concrete failure????

Yes. That's why it's called Ultimate Strength Design. If the 4" slab
experiences that ultimate load, you have problems.

> The plastic neutral axis is not the
> middle of the slab and is just be low the top of the slab ( ' a'/.85 of the
> compression block ) and the location of rebar 'd' is located at mid depth.

That's the theoretical axis based on theoretically perfect rebar
placement. I can tell you that is theoretically impossible to achieve
in a 4" slab.

> You are saying that it doesn't work even though compression equals tension
> and the moment capacity exceeds the factored moment required.
> This is the same way you would design a steel composite slab considering
> compression block in the slab portion to take the compression and the steel
> beam to take the tension. Are you saying this process is incorrect?

Sigh. No, Chuck, I am not reinventing structural engineering. How
thick are the composite slabs you're designing? 4"? Didn't think
so. How accurately do you think rebar in a very thin slab can be?
Design location +/- 25% in depth on a thin slab would not be unusual
at all.

A 4" slab with rebar is an exercise in futility. It's an insurance
policy the owner pays for to hopefully take care of improper sub-grade
preparation. Oh, and the owner owns the insurance company. Lose-lose
situation.

> Even so, the slab on grade rebar is minimum at mid depth primarily
> temperature reinforcing to minimize cracking.

Minimize and prevent are not the same. You won't eliminate cracking,
you can only control the location and the severity. The first by
control joints, the second by sub-grade preparation. If you believe
the main purpose of the rebar is to control thermal expansion,
wouldn't welded wire mesh make more sense? The loads are small, so
the steel section can be far smaller than a #3 bar. The WWM also has
a more closely spaced grid of steel which would be another benefit.
Spending the time and money on rebar installation does not make
structural or financial sense on such thin slabs. WWM makes more
sense than rebar, but it has its own issues and won't replace adequate
preparations.

>The slab on grade needs to be
> placed on a sub base of gravel with vapor barriers if required.

Exactly. If you're designing the slab to be a beam, use rebar. If
you're designing a slab on grade, take care of the grade first.

R



Posted by Gary KW4Z on July 2, 2007, 11:45 am
On 7/2/07 8:31 AM, in article
1183379473.408235.100240@k29g2000hsd.googlegroups.com, "RicodJour"

> Minimize and prevent are not the same. You won't eliminate cracking,
> you can only control the location and the severity. The first by
> control joints, the second by sub-grade preparation.


Another question here, and thanks for the scope of the answers so far, I
have saved them to a file and will reference them in the future also. Now
the question.

Would one want Control Joints placed in a basement slab? I can see in a
garage or driveway but when the basement slab will be the main flooring
would you want control joints across your floor visible? If you are
covering the floor with carpet again wouldn't a control joint be felt
walking on the floor when you encounter the joint?

Just curious is why I'm asking.

Gary


Posted by RicodJour on July 2, 2007, 11:58 am
> On 7/2/07 8:31 AM, in article
> 1183379473.408235.100...@k29g2000hsd.googlegroups.com, "RicodJour"
>
> > Minimize and prevent are not the same. You won't eliminate cracking,
> > you can only control the location and the severity. The first by
> > control joints, the second by sub-grade preparation.
>
> Another question here, and thanks for the scope of the answers so far, I
> have saved them to a file and will reference them in the future also. Now
> the question.
>
> Would one want Control Joints placed in a basement slab? I can see in a
> garage or driveway but when the basement slab will be the main flooring
> would you want control joints across your floor visible? If you are
> covering the floor with carpet again wouldn't a control joint be felt
> walking on the floor when you encounter the joint?

A slab cracking is primarily an aesthetic concern, so if the slab is
covered it's not really an issue. Some people might say that a
basement slab cracking is more of a concern if there's a possibility
of water infiltration through the cracks, but like I said before, the
drainage issues should be addressed before the concrete is placed.
Perimeter drainage and a suitable compacted gravel base will take care
of almost all water concerns.

If the basement slab is the finished flooring the control joints can
be filled in with caulking compound. You wouldn't feel the 3/16" saw
cut control joint under foot unless you were barefoot. The caulking
compound just keeps the joint from filling up with dirt and growing
little plants. ;)

> Just curious is why I'm asking.

Oh, OK. As long as you're not asking the questions for a nefarious
reason! ;)

R


Posted by DanG on July 2, 2007, 11:25 pm
The concrete will crack, period.

Your choice whether you want it to crack randomly or in a straight
line where you decide. Saw cuts are pretty discreet, but they can
be filled. Exposed decorative concrete is all the rage right now,
start looking for the saw cuts. You probably just never noticed
them before.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net



> On 7/2/07 8:31 AM, in article
> 1183379473.408235.100240@k29g2000hsd.googlegroups.com,
> "RicodJour"
>
>> Minimize and prevent are not the same. You won't eliminate
>> cracking,
>> you can only control the location and the severity. The first
>> by
>> control joints, the second by sub-grade preparation.
>
>
> Another question here, and thanks for the scope of the answers
> so far, I
> have saved them to a file and will reference them in the future
> also. Now
> the question.
>
> Would one want Control Joints placed in a basement slab? I can
> see in a
> garage or driveway but when the basement slab will be the main
> flooring
> would you want control joints across your floor visible? If you
> are
> covering the floor with carpet again wouldn't a control joint be
> felt
> walking on the floor when you encounter the joint?
>
> Just curious is why I'm asking.
>
> Gary
>



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