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Posted by Bob Morrison on November 3, 2006, 11:35 am
In a previous post Bobk207 wrote...
> I believe that cover requirements (& have had success with) are 3" for
> soil contact & 2" elsewhere. so that would be 5.5". Unless they've
> changed?
>
Bob:
A minor correction to your calculation:
3" clear for the soil + #4 each way (= 2*5/8 OD) + 2" clear from top
= 6-1/4". I would use a minimum slab thickness of 6-1/2"
And this assumes that no salt for de-icing is used on the driveway. If
salt is to be used, then the top cover should be increased to at least 3
inches and even that is going to rust eventually. So, if salt is to be
used then add the cost of epoxy coating the rebar to the cost of the
project.
Boy, talk about spending other people's money! We sure can add it up fast.
<grin>
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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Posted by HerHusband on November 3, 2006, 11:36 am
>> I'm curious why he needs a 14' wide driveway. Maybe so two cars can
>> pass? I'd go with a narrower driveway for the bulk of it and a couple
>> bump outs* to allow passing. It'd be a lot cheaper.
Wide loads maybe?
Another option to cut costs, though it's a bit of an older look, would be
to pour "strips" on each side of the driveway. Maybe 2 feet wide on each
side. Vehicle tires usually don't run down the middle of the driveway, so
you could save money by not filling the center with concrete. Pour the
strips, and place gravel or grass in the center and on each side. You could
always upgrade later and fill the center areas with concrete as time and
money allows.
Just a thought...
Anthony
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Posted by Bob Morrison on November 3, 2006, 11:58 am
In a previous post HerHusband wrote...
> Another option to cut costs, though it's a bit of an older look, would be
> to pour "strips" on each side of the driveway. Maybe 2 feet wide on each
> side. Vehicle tires usually don't run down the middle of the driveway, so
> you could save money by not filling the center with concrete. Pour the
> strips, and place gravel or grass in the center and on each side. You could
> always upgrade later and fill the center areas with concrete as time and
> money allows.
>
> Just a thought...
>
Anthony:
Good suggestion!
--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com
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Posted by RicodJour on November 3, 2006, 1:15 pm
Bob Morrison wrote:
> In a previous post HerHusband wrote...
> > Another option to cut costs, though it's a bit of an older look, would be
> > to pour "strips" on each side of the driveway. Maybe 2 feet wide on each
> > side. Vehicle tires usually don't run down the middle of the driveway, so
> > you could save money by not filling the center with concrete. Pour the
> > strips, and place gravel or grass in the center and on each side. You could
> > always upgrade later and fill the center areas with concrete as time and
> > money allows.
> >
> > Just a thought...
> >
>
> Anthony:
>
> Good suggestion!
What the hell are you saying, Bob?! Anthony _sucks_ at spending other
people's money. We're going to have to get the smoking jacket back and
change the secret handshake again... ;)
When I lived in New Orleans about ten years ago, they upgraded
Tchoupitoulas. Major truck route following the river. Obviously they
have problems being on silty sand with an extremely high water table,
so they couldn't prepare a BMOC (Bob Morrison Official Compacted) base.
They designed the concrete road bed as a beam. The amount of concrete
and rebar in that slab was astounding. I'd tease the guys working by
pointing out that retaining walls were supposed to be _vertical_.
R
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Posted by HerHusband on November 4, 2006, 12:19 pm
Rico,
> Anthony _sucks_ at spending other people's money.
:) OK, well how about a 6" compacted gravel base, and a layer of concrete
pavers? That's bound to cost more than just concreting the whole drive? It
would look nice too...
Anthony
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