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Subject Author Date
Cost of concrete driveway AndyS 11-02-2006
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Posted by RicodJour on November 4, 2006, 12:58 pm
HerHusband wrote:
> Rico,
>
> > Anthony _sucks_ at spending other people's money.
>
> :) OK, well how about a 6" compacted gravel base, and a layer of concrete
> pavers? That's bound to cost more than just concreting the whole drive? It
> would look nice too...

Better. If you'd said a compacted base, concrete slab on top, some
tumbled travertine pavers, and radiant snowmelting (bonus points if the
driveway is in Florida) I'd forgive you and email you the new secret
handshake instructions. It's a wee bit more complicated than the one
you knew. It'll help if you're double-jointed. Take some pain meds
while you're learning it. ;)

R


Posted by Glenn on November 3, 2006, 1:02 pm
I disagree. I've seen that done. The end result looks like a
patched up mess. If you can't do it right, I suggest you just put
down some gravel until you can do it right.

BTW, all driveways around here are 4" thick including mine and
though it be 30 years old, is not broken up. #4 rebar 24" ew oc
chaired on pour. Matter of fact, you won't find a crack in it.
KC area.


> > > I'm curious why he needs a 14' wide driveway. Maybe
> > > so two cars can pass? I'd go with a narrower
> > > driveway for the bulk of it and a couple bump outs*
> > > to allow passing. It'd be a lot cheaper.
>
> Wide loads maybe?
>
> Another option to cut costs, though it's a bit of an
> older look, would be to pour "strips" on each side of the
> driveway. Maybe 2 feet wide on each side. Vehicle tires
> usually don't run down the middle of the driveway, so you
> could save money by not filling the center with concrete.
> Pour the strips, and place gravel or grass in the center
> and on each side. You could always upgrade later and fill
> the center areas with concrete as time and money allows.
>
> Just a thought...
>
> Anthony


Posted by RicodJour on November 3, 2006, 1:06 pm
Bobk207 wrote:
>
>
> RIco did you get the post base photos, I sent last week?

No, Bob. I did delete my spam folder contents - I have my spam setting
on Kill instead of Stun - but I reviewed it before deletion. Maybe I
missed it. Please send it again. Thanks.

R


Posted by DanG on November 3, 2006, 7:41 am
At 14' wide, the concrete needs a saw joint down the center and
cross cuts every 7 to 10 feet. There will be a lot of lineal
expansion in 310', I would use expansion every 60'. The rebar is
OK, but 4" is minimal. There should be a minimum of 1 1/2" cover
on rebar, making 1/2" bar almost too big to cover with 4". Money
is better spent on subsoil preparation and drainage.

$3 would be low in central Oklahoma, but our stone is all
imported.
___________________________
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


> Andy writes:
>
> I just got a bid on a 310 long driveway, 14 feet wide.
>
> It is to be 4" thick with rebar 18" OC.
>
> The bid is for $2.65 per sq foot.
>
> Is this a competitive bid ???
>
> The area is North Texas
>
> Andy in Eureka
>



Posted by Jonny on November 4, 2006, 11:29 pm
> Andy writes:
>
> I just got a bid on a 310 long driveway, 14 feet wide.
>
> It is to be 4" thick with rebar 18" OC.
>
> The bid is for $2.65 per sq foot.
>
> Is this a competitive bid ???
>
> The area is North Texas
>
> Andy in Eureka
>

Central Texas. Non union laborers. Suspect some were not documented
non-native American workers. Small commercial company that normally does
roadwork and such for commercial parking lots and slabs, and county
roadwork.

Driveway is same 14' wide. 159' long. Also included adding a graduated
entry from garage doorway tied to garage slab, personnel entry door landing
tied to garage slab, a small sidewalk from that to the driveway some 10'
long. 3/8 rebar every 12". No chairs. Beams on edge were 12" thick. 7"
thick remainder. 3" of roadbase over stable Texas Hill country soil
(gravel/rock/gray clay). Full apron at street tie-in. Apron drainage
horizontally aligned with road frontage drainage, no culvert. Expansion
joints every 10' made from #1 cedar 1X4s. All boundary edges were rounded.
Included all flatwork. Surface is provided with purposely placed lines
across the driveway for traction and drainage. Natural water course is
across the driveway. Cost was a hair over 5K. The driveway was meant a
roadway to the garage, not the house.

The remainder of driveway is strictly compacted roadbase, which forms a
circle in front of the house. The center of the circle contains the septic
tank. The septic boundary is in large rock surface man-made (me) formation.
My sons compacted the roadbase with their loaded pickup trucks while it was
wet last summer. Had to wet it down twice. They went over the course for
over and hour. Had to get another load of roadbase as they mashed it down
so well the first time. 3" PVC-UV under one area 5' from concrete driveway
edge termination to allow drainage under straight roadbase area. Bermuda
grass seems to like the roadbase, weeds don't. I'll get over it.
--
Jonny



Page 7 of 7       << first < 1 2 3
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