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Posted by jaygreg on April 23, 2008, 1:57 pm
Update! I don't get to play with the sidewalk; my friend contracted it out
'cause someone made him a deal he couldn't refuse. About 30 yard of walk
completely removed from the lot... six hundred bucks. A gentleman with a
miniexcavator and dump truck gave him a price that left only a few hundred
difference from the equipment rentals when all was said and done. He's
happy... I'm disappointed. I got some good pointers from you guys. I'll have
a chance to use 'em before I kick the bucket. I really apprecaite all the
tips.
> jaygreg wrote:
>> Was discussing this very subject with the owner Saturday, Ed. I think
>> you might be right. We're going to inspect the area Wednesday. I plan
>> to bring a sledge for this very purpose. Thanks.
>>
>>> jaygreg wrote:
>>>> A friend needs about 60 feet of a city sidewalk removed. I suggested
>>>> he rent a jackhammer and I'd help. We're both fit and husky. I plan
>>>> to handle the hammer. Any tricks or techniques I should know about
>>>> before I start?
>>>
>>> Another approach is to drive wedges into the score lines of the
>>> sidewalk segments with a sledge as an alternative to sawing and the
>>> machine and blade rental costs. To test your capacity and the
>>> efficacy of this would be easy and allow you a comparitive procedure
>>> to weigh against contending possibilities.
>>>
>>> Frankly, an accomplished sledgehammer man could do the breaking job
>>> in a day if rental expenditures were a concern.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>>
>>> Edward Hennessey
>
> JG:
>
> If you are going to drive steel, instead of having someone take the risk
> of holding the wedge directly, get one of those
> big, concave-jaw vice grips, clamp it around the wedge, add duct tape from
> the grips to the wedge and duct tape the
> assembly to a long stick that puts the holder out of the range of sledge
> error. The duct tape may require refreshing from time to time. You don't
> have to clamp the devil out of the grips as the hammer would likely soon
> knock the wedge free.
> You just need to be able to contain the wedge for accurate placement, a
> goal which the tapered form of the wedge
> will enable.
>
> I would start the wedge at the slab border, reposition it at the center
> junction of slab scores and then work
> back if necessary. Once you see a crack, it can be extended by pounding a
> bit ahead of the evident break.
>
> Get a piece of inner tube and wrap it on the handle just below the sledge
> head, affixing that "bumper"
> with an automobile hose clamp to protect your sledge handle against
> misses. Four things determine sledge efficacy. The
> operator, the weight of the head, the length of the handle and the speed
> of the throw. Tool availability and fatigue
> will plug into your result.
>
> A long bar and a hard, broad fulcrum will help displacing and moving your
> fragmented slabs.
>
> Another amusing possibility, though I have my doubts, is the use of an
> expansive product like esmite (e-smite?) or
> bristar, both of which require drilled holes which themselves are a
> retarding step. I'm not advocating this over what
> I know will work and cost less but you might find a little research
> illuminating.
>
> Regards,
>
> Edward Hennessey
>
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