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DOOR CASING TRIM INSTALLATION QUESTION

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DOOR CASING TRIM INSTALLATION QUESTION Big Brother 05-10-2007
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Posted by Big Brother on May 10, 2007, 8:57 pm
I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80 interior door

The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way around..

In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch
beyond the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush with either
the frame or the sheetrock itself..

How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock between
the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the casing
will lay flat ? or something else ?..

I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such..Just hand tools..

Thanks..

Rich





Posted by DanG on May 10, 2007, 9:08 pm
A few delicate swats with a hammer on the high spots will usually
suffice. Be careful to stay where the hammer tracks will cover
up!! I'm teasing about delicate - mash the face of the rock to
mush the guts - try NOT to tear the paper. I assume you really
have door casing which is hollowed out on the back side to help
deal with this exact issue.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net



> I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80
> interior door
>
> The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way
> around..
>
> In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8
> inch beyond the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush
> with either the frame or the sheetrock itself..
>
> How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock
> between
> the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the
> casing will lay flat ? or something else ?..
>
> I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such..Just
> hand tools..
>
> Thanks..
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>



Posted by solpatrol@gmail.com on May 15, 2007, 9:21 am
I try using a drywall rasp or like the guy said earlier mash it with a
hammer. just try to stay within the area. after that if you hold your
nails to just the jamb (which I recommend for tight miters and cleaner
look) you can caulk between the wall and trim b4 painting.
goodluck brother.


Posted by Dave on May 11, 2007, 8:53 am
> I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80 interior door
>
> The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way around..
>
> In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch beyond
> the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush with either the frame
> or the sheetrock itself..
>
> How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock between
> the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the casing will
> lay flat ? or something else ?..
>
> I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such..Just hand
> tools..
>
> Thanks..
>
> Rich


Unless the frame is a extremely tight fit, should be that much of problem.
The door casing should be shimmed within the door framing when the casing is
plumb/straight/and level.

That said, using a T-square, or chalkline, mark the sheetrock 1/4" back.
Cut the paper. Then, beat the exposed sheetrock on the edge with a hammer
until it hits the paper again. Clean it up with sharp knife.

If you mean the sheetrock sticks out away from the wall, that's a different
problem. Please clarify if so.
Dave



Posted by RicodJour on May 11, 2007, 9:34 am
Big Brother wrote:
> I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80 interior door
>
> The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way around..
>
> In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch
> beyond the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush with either
> the frame or the sheetrock itself..
>
> How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock between
> the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the casing
> will lay flat ? or something else ?..
>
> I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such..Just hand tools..

Glue a thin strip of wood to the frame and attach the casing through
it. Shaving down the wallboard is not a good option.

R


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