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Posted by Rudy on May 12, 2007, 12:35 am
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> Shaving down the wallboard is not a good option.
Whats wrong with that Rico..its only a 16th or an 8th here and there ? The
2 1/2 " casing should disguise that slight slope shouldn't it ?
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Posted by DAC on May 14, 2007, 8:10 am
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> Glue a thin strip of wood to the frame and attach the casing through
> it. Shaving down the wallboard is not a good option.
> R
Disagree, been there done that.. You'll always see the strip...and
it'll look like crap. Mash the drywall, the trim will cover it up...
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Posted by HerHusband on May 14, 2007, 10:55 am
Rich,
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> I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80 interior
> door. The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way
> around..
> In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch
> beyond the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush with
> either the frame or the sheetrock itself..
> How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock between
> the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the casing
> will lay flat ? or something else ?..
First, I'm assuming the door is installed plumb, and the wall is simply
out of plumb? Or maybe the door frame is simply narrower than the wall
thickness?
I had a couple of doors (out of about 11) that protruded beyond the wall
surface. In my case, I used a router to rabbet the back edge of the trim
so it fit flush against the door frame and the wall. I stopped the
rabbets at each end so they don't show on the ends. You can't tell by
looking at the trim that the door and wall don't line up.
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> I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such.
> Just hand tools.
If you're installing the door yourself, this is probably a good excuse to
buy a new tool. That's usually the best time to justify the expense. You
have a job to do, and there's a reason to buy the tool. It's usually not
as easy to buy a tool, and then hope you have a project to use it for
later. I've done that once or twice, and those tools tend to sit unused.
The ones I bought when I needed them are the ones that get used most.
On the other hand, you could always rent a tool if you don't think you'll
use it again.
In any case, another option would be to scribe the trim so it matches the
contours of the wall exactly. You could then use a small block plane (or
a belt sander, or maybe even a hand chisel) to shave away the unwanted
wood. If done correctly, the trim would fit the door frame and wall
exactly. Your comment "is not always even" makes me think the gap varies,
in which case scribing is probably the only option that is going to be
successful.
Anthony
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Posted by Big Brother on May 15, 2007, 7:23 pm
Big Brother wrote:
show/hide quoted text
> I'm putting up new 2 1/2 inch wide door casing on a 36"x80 interior door
>
> The door frame is not always even with the sheetrock all the way around..
>
> In some places the sheetrock may stick out, about 1/16 to 1/8 inch
> beyond the frame ..which causes the casing to not sit flush with either
> the frame or the sheetrock itself..
>
> How do you recommend to fix this..Do you score the sheetrock between
> the width of the casing and push it in towards the wall so the casing
> will lay flat ? or something else ?..
>
> I don't have any specialized tools like a router or such..Just hand tools..
>
> Thanks..
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
Thanks for all the responses..
I ended up simply mashing the drywall; by first scoring the area I
wanted to mash with a utility knife, then being careful not to
mash outside of the area that the moulding will cover..
The trim now sits even with both the wall and the door frame..
Appreciate all the help..
Rich
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