Driving Nails Inside 18" Footing

Posted by jloomis on July 27, 2009, 11:06 am

No earth to wood contact. It is in the code. All plates, pier blocks, and
post connections are above grade.....excuse me.
Cross-Section: Provide true section through building showing structural
elements, foundation through roof, fireplace section, other sections as
needed, earth-to-wood clearances and floor-to-ceiling heights.

WOOD AND EARTH SEPARATION - Wood used in construction of

permanent structures and located nearer than 6" to earth shall be treated

wood or wood of natural resistance to decay. Where located on concrete

slabs placed on earth, wood shall be treated wood or wood of natural

resistance to decay. Where not subject to water splash or to exterior

moisture and located on concrete having a minimum thickness of 3" with

an impervious membrane installed between concrete and earth, the wood

may be untreated and of any species. [2306.8]

POST-BEAM CONNECTIONS - Positive connection shall be provided to

5.0 - CLEARANCES AND TREATMENT FOR WOOD FRAMING 5.1 Preservative-treated
wood or naturally durable wood shall be used for (CBC 2304.11): A. wood
placed against concrete or masonry which is in contact with soil. B. wood in
contact with soil or water C. wood subfloor and framing with clearances less
than 18" under joist or 12" under girders. D. wood with less than ½"
airspace on top, sides & end of members entering concrete or masonry. E.
isolated posts surrounded by soil with base less than 8" above soil. F.
posts over concrete subject to moisture with base less than 1" above slab or
6" above exposed

I could go on...

jloomis construction and concrete

>> There should be no post base and or wood post below grade.
>> The county will concur with this also.

> Where on Earth did you get such information?
>

Posted by Cabot on July 27, 2009, 4:54 pm

> I could go on...

Please do, the OP already stated what the building inspector told him. I
suppose you know more about his local building codes than the inspector. Oh
pullllllleeeeeezzeeeee!

Check out 2304.11.4 here http://tinyurl.com/n9nthw

Here's a MD code, which sounds similar to the OP's area, since the deck
footers are similar.
http://www.co.saint-marys.md.us/lugm/docs/CAG4.pdf

Posted by Grasshopper on July 29, 2009, 10:39 pm

>> I could go on...

> Please do, the OP already stated what the building inspector told him. I
> suppose you know more about his local building codes than the inspector.
> Oh pullllllleeeeeezzeeeee!
> Check out 2304.11.4 here http://tinyurl.com/n9nthw
> Here's a MD code, which sounds similar to the OP's area, since the deck
> footers are similar.
> http://www.co.saint-marys.md.us/lugm/docs/CAG4.pdf

Your point being what?
--
Dave

Posted by Cabot on July 30, 2009, 4:30 pm

"Grasshopper" <NONE> wrote in message

>>> I could go on...

>> Please do, the OP already stated what the building inspector told him. I
>> suppose you know more about his local building codes than the inspector.
>> Oh pullllllleeeeeezzeeeee!
>> Check out 2304.11.4 here http://tinyurl.com/n9nthw
>> Here's a MD code, which sounds similar to the OP's area, since the deck
>> footers are similar.
>> http://www.co.saint-marys.md.us/lugm/docs/CAG4.pdf

> Your point being what?

The point is quite obvious, it's to show ground contact wood, is made for
ground contact. How did you not get the point?

Posted by Grasshopper on July 26, 2009, 1:42 pm

18" round, 24" deep footings with 8" of concrete. The 8" depth part is the
footing as you indicated. The remaining part should be at least above soil
level height and of concrete as well. These are the piers. The piers can
be round or square in shape. The posts you are working with go on top of
the piers. There's more in the detail, but that's the general gist of
things.

Get with the county when you pour the footings, they may want to observe the
pour and check the depth before concrete sets up. The piers are tied to the
footings via rebar that juts from the footings during that pour. Some ways
to tie the 6X6 post to top of the pier is rebar jutting about 6" from the
pier, drill a hole on the bottom of each 6X6 for that. Another way is using
flashing embedded into top the pier while its poured and nailing that
flashing to the 6X6. Suggest you dig all the holes, setup and tie the rebar
etc. first. Rent a machine to mix all the concrete and do it in one day for
the footings. Setup the piers forms or sonobuoys, and rebar, pour the piers
a day or 2 later.
--
Dave

> I'm planning a deck for my new house. I think I've got pretty much
> everything figured out, but I'm concerned about one thing. My county
> requires 18" round, 24" deep footings with 8" of concrete. If I only
> use 8" of concrete, the post bases will be 16" down in an 18" hole.
> There's no room to swing a hammer down there. How can I attach my
> (6x6) posts to the post bases?
> I have a couple ideas. Obviously, I could just pour enough concrete
> to raise the post bases up to the surface. That's a LOT of concrete
> to mix by hand, but it's not impossible. Another possibility is to
> use screws instead of nails with a 90 degree drill attachment.
> Anybody have a better idea? I'd really appreciate it.
> Thanks in advance,
> Bill

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Driving Nails Inside 18" Footing - Page 2