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Posted by Mike Paulsen on July 28, 2009, 12:35 am
Cabot wrote:
>> I'm planning a deck for my new house. I think I've got pretty much
>> everything figured out, but I'm concerned about one thing. My county
>> requires 18" round, 24" deep footings with 8" of concrete. If I only
>> use 8" of concrete, the post bases will be 16" down in an 18" hole.
>> There's no room to swing a hammer down there. How can I attach my
>> (6x6) posts to the post bases?
>> I have a couple ideas. Obviously, I could just pour enough concrete
>> to raise the post bases up to the surface. That's a LOT of concrete
>> to mix by hand, but it's not impossible. Another possibility is to
>> use screws instead of nails with a 90 degree drill attachment.
>> Anybody have a better idea? I'd really appreciate it.
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Bill
>
> I'm guessing you're in the southern part of the states. We have a frostline
> of 42", in the part of the Midwest I'm in.
>
> I have no idea where the people which said the lumber has to be above
> ground, get their information. With the properly treated lumber such as ACQ
> 0.40 retention, it is made for ground contact. Here's a couple links, and
> the net is full of ground contact lumber. Pole barns are commonly built
> this way, along with decks.
.40 is for "Non-critical components" (UC4A)
Pole barns, permanent foundations, etc. require .60. (or better)
Depending on your location, code may allow burial of .40. Then again,
code is a minimum, not optimal, standard.
When practical, I like to keep wood above ground. From the top of the
footing to 2" above grade is 18". At 10" diameter, that's .8 ft^3 per
post. At 8" diameter, it's .52 ft^3 That's not much, even when hand mixing.
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> Although we have built several pole barns with treated lumber when it
> comes to residential construction, the building dept. requires all wood to
> have a ground clearance.
> It is only a better way to build.
> I have seen treated lumber turn and wrot in the ground.
> john