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Drywall texturing question

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Drywall texturing question AndyS 11-01-2007
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Posted by AndyS on November 1, 2007, 8:16 am
Andy asks:

I have just taped and bedded a new room in my attic. Eventually,
I will hire a professional to come in and "orange peel" texture it
to match the rest of the house. I cannot do it well enough myself.


However, for a year or two, I would like to use the room as it
is while I do other work. I would like to paint it , and, at a later
time, have the pro come in and put on the texture.

So , my question is, " Can I paint the drywall without compromising
the integrity of the texturing job, and without making the pro's
job harder or more costly ??? "

Also, " If painting before the texturing is OK, what kind of
paint should I use ? "

My preference would be a flat white latex, but, IF there is no
paint that will be acceptable, I'll just skim coat the wall with joint
compound and leave it alone.

I would appreciate some comment on this proposal from any
knowledgeable person, especially professionals...

Andy in Eureka, Texas


Posted by Mike Paulsen on November 1, 2007, 4:48 pm
AndyS wrote:
> Andy asks:
(snip)

>
> So , my question is, " Can I paint the drywall without compromising
> the integrity of the texturing job, and without making the pro's
> job harder or more costly ??? "

It depends on what you want the taper to do. If you just want the taper
to come in and spray, without fixing any imperfections in your taping
job, then painting isn't an issue. (provided you use the right paint)

If you want the taper to fix imperfections, then it's easier if it isn't
painted. It's also better to have sins of omission. It's easier to fill
in low spots than feather out high spots.

>
> Also, " If painting before the texturing is OK, what kind of
> paint should I use ? "
>
> My preference would be a flat white latex, but, IF there is no
> paint that will be acceptable, I'll just skim coat the wall with joint
> compound and leave it alone.
>

Drywall primer followed by flat latex would be good. The flatter the
paint the better adhesion the texture will have.

Try using a medium-long nap roller cover (1/2 or 5/8") and a
primer/filler like Sheetrock Firstcoat followed by a normal drywall
primer/sealer and then flat paint. You may find that the resulting
texture is close enough to a light orange peel that you won't feel the
need to have it sprayed.

Posted by DanG on November 1, 2007, 8:30 pm
Here are two ideas:

Mix drywall mud into your paint. Use a long nap roller, get
generous with the paint. Make sure you roll out any roller ridges
and/or drips. This will give you a roller stipple texture which
you might find just fine.

Another fairly easy texture, blend in 1 cup of corn meal per
gallon of paint. Use a medium to long nap roller, make sure your
final pass leaves an even distribution without runs or ridges.
This will give you a texture virtually identical to old sand
finish plaster. In fact it works great if you have new gyp walls
butting into old plaster.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net



> Andy asks:
>
> I have just taped and bedded a new room in my attic.
> Eventually,
> I will hire a professional to come in and "orange peel" texture
> it
> to match the rest of the house. I cannot do it well enough
> myself.
>
>
> However, for a year or two, I would like to use the room as it
> is while I do other work. I would like to paint it , and, at a
> later
> time, have the pro come in and put on the texture.
>
> So , my question is, " Can I paint the drywall without
> compromising
> the integrity of the texturing job, and without making the pro's
> job harder or more costly ??? "
>
> Also, " If painting before the texturing is OK, what kind of
> paint should I use ? "
>
> My preference would be a flat white latex, but, IF there is no
> paint that will be acceptable, I'll just skim coat the wall with
> joint
> compound and leave it alone.
>
> I would appreciate some comment on this proposal from any
> knowledgeable person, especially professionals...
>
> Andy in Eureka, Texas
>



Posted by marson on November 2, 2007, 6:49 am
> Here are two ideas:
>
> Mix drywall mud into your paint. Use a long nap roller, get
> generous with the paint. Make sure you roll out any roller ridges
> and/or drips. This will give you a roller stipple texture which
> you might find just fine.
>
> Another fairly easy texture, blend in 1 cup of corn meal per
> gallon of paint. Use a medium to long nap roller, make sure your
> final pass leaves an even distribution without runs or ridges.
> This will give you a texture virtually identical to old sand
> finish plaster. In fact it works great if you have new gyp walls
> butting into old plaster.
>
> --
> ______________________________
> Keep the whole world singing . . . .
> DanG (remove the sevens)
>
> > Andy asks:
>
> > I have just taped and bedded a new room in my attic.
> > Eventually,
> > I will hire a professional to come in and "orange peel" texture
> > it
> > to match the rest of the house. I cannot do it well enough
> > myself.
>
> > However, for a year or two, I would like to use the room as it
> > is while I do other work. I would like to paint it , and, at a
> > later
> > time, have the pro come in and put on the texture.
>
> > So , my question is, " Can I paint the drywall without
> > compromising
> > the integrity of the texturing job, and without making the pro's
> > job harder or more costly ??? "
>
> > Also, " If painting before the texturing is OK, what kind of
> > paint should I use ? "
>
> > My preference would be a flat white latex, but, IF there is no
> > paint that will be acceptable, I'll just skim coat the wall with
> > joint
> > compound and leave it alone.
>
Andy, you can paint away. If your future drywaller is concerned about
adhesion (and orange peel sticks pretty well) you could always reprime
over the finish coat. In fact, you could just use several coats of
primer instead of paint since this is a temporary solution anyway.
But at any rate, you are OK to paint. I have remodelled a number of
old plaster houses that got sprayed out with texture, and we haven't
had any problems sticking new orange peel to old paint, even glossy
old paint.


Posted by AndyS on November 2, 2007, 8:41 am
Andy writes:
I want to thank all those who posted here for the advice. I think I
will put on
a latex primer coat, and if it looks OK, just leave it at that.
Otherwise, the
flattest white latex I can find.....

Re-priming later isn't a very big job on a 12x18 room and it
that's what it might
take, regardless of what I do, it isn't going to be a problem at
all....

Thanks again, and I will continue to read this thread for any
additional insights or ideas..

Andy in Eureka, Texas



( Where if you are abducted by aliens, you will need to
be able to speak Spanish, un pocito )


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