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Posted by Dave on September 19, 2007, 10:18 pm
>
>> Because it is the return path for the circuit, the neutral is, in
>> essence, the hot. So just like finding current between your black
>> wire and the ground, you find current between the neutral and the
>> ground.
>
> [Sorry if this is a duplicate.]
>
> Sure, there will be current on the neutral, equal to the current on
> the hot for a 120V circuit. But the load will cause a voltage drop of
> almost 120V, so while the hot will be 120V from ground, the neutral
> should only be millivolts above ground. I think that if the OP truly
> measured 120V between a neutral and a ground, just having a device
> plugged in downstream doesn't explain that.
>
> Maybe what was happening was that with the downstream neutral
> disconnected (no circuit), the voltmeter was giving a phantom 120V
> reading due to the induced current from the parallel hot conductor.
> As a separate matter, touching the downstream neutral to the grounded
> box, while a downstream load was plugged in, completed the circuit for
> that load, causing the spark.
>
> Cheers, Wayne
No.
Any residential circuit on which has power drawn from the hot needs a
neutral. The neutral carries the current to earth ground. The
difference/potential in those conditions is the neutral will be at a
potential equivalent to the difference voltage drop of the the load and the
actual supply voltage AND earth ground. Thus, the neutral is hot minus the
load vs. earth ground is the actual potential.
The voltage drop is negligible. The current draw may be more perceptible,
but not measured in this case.
A voltage drop to zero across a load is effectively infinity impedance. No
current can occur in such condiitions. No current means no electrical flow.
Wouldn't warm your tongue, never mind a spectacular electrical air arc.
What's present on one part of the circuit on the same wiring is also present
down the line.
Dave
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