Electrical question for new workshop

Posted by Steve Barker on February 10, 2009, 1:17 am

PeterD wrote:

> wrote:
>

>>> jamesgangnc@gmail.com babbled some shit he knew nothing about:
>>>> The tank heaters don't care if it's 115 or just 100. But it's hard on
>>>> that refer compressor when it has to start up wiht both tank heaters
>>>> on.
>>> Not hard on it 'cause the voltage is always around 115 - 118. YOU seem to
>>> have a problem with comprehension. You don't seem to understand what
>>> you've been told. So, here's the deal. I'll drop the thread, and you can
>>> fuck off.
>>> s

>> You just don't like being confronted with the facts. You don't run 16 amps
>> 400 feet on 12/2 wire and not have a voltage drop. And telling someone else
>> it's ok is bad advice.

>
>
> A 400 ft run of 12 AWG, at 120 volts, a 15 amp load, will drop 23.7
> volts, giving a terminal voltage of about 96.3 volts. The power lost
> will be 355 watts over the run. Power available at terminal will be
> 1450 watts.
>

so much for the pencil pushers. Mine doesn't do that.

s

Posted by PeterD on February 10, 2009, 9:21 am

On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:17:39 -0600, Steve Barker

>PeterD wrote:

>> wrote:
>>

>>>> jamesgangnc@gmail.com babbled some shit he knew nothing about:
>>>>> The tank heaters don't care if it's 115 or just 100. But it's hard on
>>>>> that refer compressor when it has to start up wiht both tank heaters
>>>>> on.
>>>> Not hard on it 'cause the voltage is always around 115 - 118. YOU seem to
>>>> have a problem with comprehension. You don't seem to understand what
>>>> you've been told. So, here's the deal. I'll drop the thread, and you can
>>>> fuck off.
>>>> s
>>> You just don't like being confronted with the facts. You don't run 16 amps
>>> 400 feet on 12/2 wire and not have a voltage drop. And telling someone else
>>> it's ok is bad advice.

>>
>>
>> A 400 ft run of 12 AWG, at 120 volts, a 15 amp load, will drop 23.7
>> volts, giving a terminal voltage of about 96.3 volts. The power lost
>> will be 355 watts over the run. Power available at terminal will be
>> 1450 watts.
>>

>so much for the pencil pushers. Mine doesn't do that.
>s

Then you are not drawing 15 amps, or don't have 12 AWG, or are not 400
ft from the source, or just plain have not a clue. Idiot... Your
problem is one of not understanding the physics of the matter.

Posted by on February 10, 2009, 9:30 am

> On Tue, 10 Feb 2009 00:17:39 -0600, Steve Barker

> >PeterD wrote:

> >> wrote:
> >>>> jamesgan...@gmail.com babbled some shit he knew nothing about:
> >>>>> The tank heaters don't care if it's 115 or just 100. =A0But it's ha=

rd on

> >>>>> that refer compressor when it has to start up wiht both tank heater=

> >>>>> on.
> >>>> Not hard on it 'cause the voltage is always around 115 - 118. =A0YOU=

seem to

> >>>> have a problem with comprehension. =A0You don't seem to understand w=

hat

> >>>> you've been told. =A0So, here's the deal. =A0I'll drop the thread, a=

nd you can

> >>>> fuck off.
> >>>> s
> >>> You just don't like being confronted with the facts. =A0You don't run=

16 amps

> >>> 400 feet on 12/2 wire and not have a voltage drop. =A0And telling som=

eone else

> >>> it's ok is bad advice.
> >> A 400 ft run of 12 AWG, at 120 volts, a 15 amp load, will drop 23.7
> >> volts, giving a terminal voltage of about 96.3 volts. The power lost
> >> will be 355 watts over the run. Power available at terminal will be
> >> 1450 watts.

> >so much for the pencil pushers. =A0Mine doesn't do that.
> >s

> Then you are not drawing 15 amps, or don't have 12 AWG, or are not 400
> ft from the source, or just plain have not a clue. Idiot... Your
> problem is one of not understanding the physics of the matter.- Hide quot=

ed text -

> - Show quoted text -

Real world results do vary a bit from the calculations because of
quality control of the wire. But apparently some of us live in a
magical 5th dimension where the normal laws of physics do not apply.

No inspector in the country would let that go. I'm no particular fan
of building inspectors but there is nothing wrong with complying with
the code. If for no other reason than to avoid complications when you
sell the property.

Posted by John Grabowski on February 3, 2009, 11:29 am

> Hopefully, this is a simple question that someone can answer. I'm
> looking for the type/size cable to run (inside conduit) from my house
> underground to my new shop.
> I am building an unattached workshop in my backyard. I am planning on
> running my electrical off of my house's panel. I am going to install
> an auxuillary panel in the workshop (100 Amp). I'm planning on two 15
> Amp circuits for outlets, One 220V circuit, and 1 circuit for
> lighting. The distance between the house and the shop will be about a
> 40' run.
> I know I'll have to have an electrician come out and finish the work,
> but I want to purchase the correct size wire when I purchase my
> building materials.

*For 100 amps a 1 1/2" PVC conduit will suffice using 2 -#1s, 1 -#4, and 1
#6 aluminum single conductors such as THWN. There is no reason to spend the
extra money for cable in a conduit. You could use copper conductors as the
price has gone down quite a bit. For copper you can use one size smaller
for each conductor.

Something else to consider is a conduit for a telephone or TV line. A 1"
PVC conduit should suffice for that.

I wouldn't purchase any wire until you are ready to install it. It could
get damaged or stolen and you don't know what the final length will be until
everything is in place. No sense paying for waste.

You may want to consult with your electrician ahead of time so that your
work will be to code and that he has no problem finishing the job that you
started.

For the circuits that you have planned, 100 amps sounds like overkill unless
you have plans to add more down the road.

For more info on this topic you can do a search of the newsgroup
alt.home.repair on Google. This subject has been covered a lot there.

Posted by rlz on February 21, 2009, 9:00 am

> Hopefully, this is a simple question that someone can answer. =A0I'm
> looking for the type/size cable to run (inside conduit) from my house
> underground to my new shop.
> I am building an unattached workshop in my backyard. I am planning on
> running my electrical off of my house's panel. =A0I am going to install
> an auxuillary panel in the workshop (100 Amp). =A0I'm planning on two 15
> Amp circuits for outlets, One 220V circuit, and 1 circuit for
> lighting. =A0The distance between the house and the shop will be about a
> 40' run.
> I know I'll have to have an electrician come out and finish the work,
> but I want to purchase the correct size wire when I purchase my
> building materials

As the originator ofthis thread, let me say thanks for all of the
posts. I decided my 100 Amp panel was overkill and decided to go with
50 amp panel instead. I purchased 50' of 6/3 w.Grnd at Lowes and ran
it inside 1.5" conduit. When the inspector came out, he said that
the cabling was not "W" weather-rated, such as TNHW rating.
Apparently, it was for inside work and labeled NM-B. I went back to
lowes and talk to the older guy who I had previously worked with. He
was surprised and then said that they sell this for that exact
purpose. Well, I then bought 3 sections of #6(Blk,Wht,Red) and 1
section of #10 for ground.

But Lowes did take the cut wire back and give me a refund, so I
commend them on that.

robin

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Electrical question for new workshop - Page 4