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Finger Jointed 2 x 8 spebby_92 09-18-2007
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Posted by on September 18, 2007, 5:05 pm
I am remodeling my house and have discovered a valley rafter that was
sagging because it was made up of several 2 x 8" scabbed together with
a 1 x 8 on one side. The valley rafter is 28' long. The only 2 x 8
that I can find that long is a finger jointed one. Is a finger
jointed 2 x 8 (douglas fir) suitable for a valley rafter?


Posted by Robert Allison on September 18, 2007, 5:15 pm
spebby_92@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am remodeling my house and have discovered a valley rafter that was
> sagging because it was made up of several 2 x 8" scabbed together with
> a 1 x 8 on one side. The valley rafter is 28' long. The only 2 x 8
> that I can find that long is a finger jointed one. Is a finger
> jointed 2 x 8 (douglas fir) suitable for a valley rafter?
>

2000 International Building Code (published by International
Code Council) Section 2303.1.1:

"Approved end-jointed lumber is permitted to be used
interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same species
and grade."

# 2000 International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family
Dwellings (published by International Code Council) contains
three separate references.

Floor Framing, Section R502.1.3: "Approved end-jointed wood
identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R501.2 may be
used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
species and grade."

Wall Framing, Section R602.1.1: "Approved end-jointed wood
identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R602.1 may be
used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
species and grade."

Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood
identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be
used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
species and grade."

However, remember that this is a MINIMUM standard. A valley
rafter is subjected to some heavy loading in certain instances
and I would perhaps be more inclined to use two 14' pieces
with an intermediate support. You can support this in the
middle if you can go down to a wall. Getting the old one out
and a new one in is going to be your major job on this one.

--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Posted by dpb on September 18, 2007, 5:28 pm
Robert Allison wrote:
> spebby_92@hotmail.com wrote:
>> I am remodeling my house and have discovered a valley rafter that was
>> sagging because it was made up of several 2 x 8" scabbed together with
>> a 1 x 8 on one side. The valley rafter is 28' long. The only 2 x 8
>> that I can find that long is a finger jointed one. Is a finger
>> jointed 2 x 8 (douglas fir) suitable for a valley rafter?
>>
>
> 2000 International Building Code (published by International Code
> Council) Section 2303.1.1:
>
> "Approved end-jointed lumber is permitted to be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> # 2000 International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings
> (published by International Code Council) contains three separate
> references.
>
> Floor Framing, Section R502.1.3: "Approved end-jointed wood identified
> by a grade mark conforming to Section R501.2 may be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> Wall Framing, Section R602.1.1: "Approved end-jointed wood identified by
> a grade mark conforming to Section R602.1 may be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood identified by
> a grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be used interchangeably
> with solid-sawn members of the same species and grade."
>
> However, remember that this is a MINIMUM standard. A valley rafter is
> subjected to some heavy loading in certain instances and I would perhaps
> be more inclined to use two 14' pieces with an intermediate support.
> You can support this in the middle if you can go down to a wall.
> Getting the old one out and a new one in is going to be your major job
> on this one.


What he said...

If have a jacking point(s) to raise it, I'd be tempted to do that, pull
the 1x scab and scab 2x of longest span could get there and optionally
add a 3/4" ply on the other side. Adequately glued and nailed, of course...

--



Posted by Steve Barker LT on September 18, 2007, 8:59 pm
And maybe a vertical support near the point of jacking.

s


>
>
> What he said...
>
> If have a jacking point(s) to raise it, I'd be tempted to do that, pull
> the 1x scab and scab 2x of longest span could get there and optionally add
> a 3/4" ply on the other side. Adequately glued and nailed, of course...
>
> --
>
>



Posted by on September 18, 2007, 5:48 pm
> spebby...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > I am remodeling my house and have discovered a valley rafter that was
> > sagging because it was made up of several 2 x 8" scabbed together with
> > a 1 x 8 on one side. The valley rafter is 28' long. The only 2 x 8
> > that I can find that long is a finger jointed one. Is a finger
> > jointed 2 x 8 (douglas fir) suitable for a valley rafter?
>
> 2000 International Building Code (published by International
> Code Council) Section 2303.1.1:
>
> "Approved end-jointed lumber is permitted to be used
> interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same species
> and grade."
>
> # 2000 International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family
> Dwellings (published by International Code Council) contains
> three separate references.
>
> Floor Framing, Section R502.1.3: "Approved end-jointed wood
> identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R501.2 may be
> used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
> species and grade."
>
> Wall Framing, Section R602.1.1: "Approved end-jointed wood
> identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R602.1 may be
> used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
> species and grade."
>
> Roof Framing, Section R802.1.2: "Approved end-jointed wood
> identified by a grade mark conforming to Section R802.1 may be
> used interchangeably with solid-sawn members of the same
> species and grade."
>
> However, remember that this is a MINIMUM standard. A valley
> rafter is subjected to some heavy loading in certain instances
> and I would perhaps be more inclined to use two 14' pieces
> with an intermediate support. You can support this in the
> middle if you can go down to a wall. Getting the old one out
> and a new one in is going to be your major job on this one.
>
> --
> Robert Allison
> Rimshot, Inc.
> Georgetown, TX

Thanks Robert for the quick reply. The valley rafter crosses a load
bearing wall (ceiling joists lapped at this wall) and a non-load
bearing wall (parallel to joists). If crosses the load bearing wall
at 6' and the non-load bearing wall close to the center of the valley
rafter. Can the valley rafter be supported by the non-load bearing
wall? Currently, there are no supports.

Any tips on an easy way to remove the existing valley rafter? My plan
is to add some temporary bracing and use a nail puller to remove the
nails from the jack rafters, remove the existing rafter and insert the
new one. I have removed the roof sheating in this area.


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