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Finishing trim on a new shower? SparkyGuy 12-15-2006
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Posted by butwhat on December 17, 2006, 8:53 am
Actually I've worked in cities where it is code to have a 5/8 firewall
behind any enclosure. So the installation would go as Spartky has
started. Drywall then tub or shower surround. Then drywall or cement
board over. I have adopted this installation method as my own. I'll
never get busted for code - no matter where I'm working. & I don't see
anything bad about having an uninterupted firewall.
aemeijers@att.net wrote:
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Posted by butwhat on December 17, 2006, 8:55 am
aemeijers@att.net wrote:
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Posted by Sam on December 15, 2006, 7:44 pm
"SparkyGuy" wrote in message
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Read instructions b/4 installing, since you don't know what you're doing.
Man, I hate to say this, but your installation belongs here:
http://www.thisoldhouse.com:80/toh/tohnews/gallery/0,25895,1569371,00.html
Posted by Michael Bulatovich on December 15, 2006, 9:35 pm
I vote for furring out all the walls around this thing to within 1/4" of
flush, then use an accent tile trim. You haven't shown a picture looking
down, so I assume that isn't a problem.
--
MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
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Posted by DerbyDad03 on December 15, 2006, 10:51 pm
I know you aren't going to like either of these suggestions, but there
are 2 ways that I can think of to make this look right:
1 - Hard Core Fix: Remove the unit. Remove enough of the drywall on the
2 finished walls to allow you to install the unit correctly - the
flange should be attached to the studs. Assuming this unit is already
plumbed in, you will also have to re-plumb it. You'll also have to fir
out the new stud wall because the unit will no longer reach this wall
once it is set back against the studs. Once it is install correctly,
hire a plasterer to fill in around the flange. Don't try to fill it in
with drywall mud...it's guaranteed to crack if used in such a thick
amount.
Of course, this assumes that you did not use a bed of concrete under
the shower base. If you did, ignore this suggestion and consider
suggestion # 2.
2 - Soft Core Fix: Put a 1/4" layer of drywall over the exiting drywall
to cover the flange like it is supposed to be covered, Obviously you'll
need mud along the ceiling and in all the corners, but when it's done,
it'll look like it is supposed to. Of course, this assumes that
whatever is up against or attached to the long wall that we can't see
won't prevent the installation of another layer of drywall.
Good luck!
SparkyGuy wrote:
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