Footings for Shed

Posted by on April 15, 2009, 10:17 am

Hello,

I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
with the others? What's the process that the pros use?

Thanks in advance!

Jason

Posted by RicodJour on April 15, 2009, 10:40 am

On Apr 15, 10:17=A0am, jcarw...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello,
> I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. =A0I've drawn the plans, elevations
> and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. =A0I'm going
> to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> the holes to make a base for CMUs. =A0The question I have is how do I
> make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> rest on them are nice and level? =A0Do I use some sort of stake and
> water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> the same elevation? =A0Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
> between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> with the others? =A0What's the process that the pros use?
> Thanks in advance!

Either a water level or a laser level will work. You only have to
make sure the top of each is level - "close enough" is okay for the
bottom.

Since you're planning on using concrete to fill the cells, I'd use
Sonotube and forget about the block. Excavate, pour the spread
footings, insert and plumb Sonotube, backfill, laser level to mark the
outside of the Sonotube for the top of the pour, poke a nail through
the side of the tube, pour concrete and install anchor bolts.

I'd also use more than four points of support to better distribute the
load and minimize differential settlement. People often underestimate
the amount of load they'll put in a shed, and yours is a substantial
size.

R

Posted by on April 15, 2009, 11:03 am

> On Apr 15, 10:17=A0am, jcarw...@gmail.com wrote:

> > Hello,
> > I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. =A0I've drawn the plans, elevation=

> > and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. =A0I'm goin=

> > to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> > the holes to make a base for CMUs. =A0The question I have is how do I
> > make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> > them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> > rest on them are nice and level? =A0Do I use some sort of stake and
> > water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> > the same elevation? =A0Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the morta=

> > between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> > with the others? =A0What's the process that the pros use?
> > Thanks in advance!

> Either a water level or a laser level will work. =A0You only have to
> make sure the top of each is level - "close enough" is okay for the
> bottom.
> Since you're planning on using concrete to fill the cells, I'd use
> Sonotube and forget about the block. =A0Excavate, pour the spread
> footings, insert and plumb Sonotube, backfill, laser level to mark the
> outside of the Sonotube for the top of the pour, poke a nail through
> the side of the tube, pour concrete and install anchor bolts.
> I'd also use more than four points of support to better distribute the
> load and minimize differential settlement. =A0People often underestimate
> the amount of load they'll put in a shed, and yours is a substantial
> size.
> R

I've seen those before and they look much easier. Originally I wanted
to use CMUs because they're square. I see on the sonotube's website
that they make square ones. I didn't want to use circular forms
because I don't want the footing to extend out beyond the wall but a
square form wouuld work great. I've never seen them in Lowe's or Home
Depot. I will find a distributor and see if I can't snatch some.

I will definitely consider using more than just one in each corner
since forms would be quicker and easier.

If I use these forms, do I still need to pour a base for them? Should
I be putting gravel in these holes?

Thanks again!

Posted by HerHusband on April 15, 2009, 12:35 pm

>> I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed.
>> I'm going to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on
>> pouring concrete in the holes to make a base for CMUs.
>> how do I make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs
>> that the top of them are all at the same elevation height

The "pro's" would probably use a transit, but a laser level would work fine
if you have one. I personally use a simple water level made from an old
wine bottle and a length of 3/8" clear tubing. It's accurate, and can work
around corners or other obstructions a laser or transit would have
difficulty with. A home built water level is also cheap. :)

> I wanted to use CMUs because they're square. I see on the sonotube's
> website that they make square ones.

I didn't realize square sonotubes were available, all I've ever seen is
round. In any case, you could also build some simple square forms out of
plywood and 2x4 reinforcements. Remember to add some rebar to your posts
and footings.

> I will definitely consider using more than just one in each corner
> since forms would be quicker and easier.

Have you considered pouring a concrete slab? It would be faster, easier,
and cheaper than pouring support columns and building a floor. You could
build a simple perimeter form with 2x8's or 2x10's, and dig down on the
edges for perimeter footings. If you're in an area with deep frost lines,
you could dig holes for "posts" and pour the slab and footing posts at the
same time.

Anthony

Posted by John Grabowski on April 15, 2009, 1:11 pm

> Hello,
> I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
> and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
> to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
> make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
> water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
> between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> with the others? What's the process that the pros use?

*Getting off topic, but have you considered the property tax ramifications
of building a shed with permanent footings. In my area of NJ that is
considered an improvement and contributes to the tax base of the property.
Everyone around here just lays out a gravel base and puts a shed with skids
on top.

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