Footings for Shed

Posted by benick on April 26, 2009, 8:36 pm

> The only PT I used is the 6X6 PT skids..The floor is KD 2X6s and pine
> boards
> sitting on blocks...Why would you need 2X12s and 3/4 inch PT plywood for a
> small storage shed??? What are you gonna do , store a ton of bagged
> concrete
> in it ???LOL... Plenty of air circulation under it and NO rot after 5
> years
> in Maine...And you're forgetting the TAXES , PERMITS and SETBACK BS for a
> PERMANATE shed on a slab verses one with NO tax increase or permits ect
> for
> one on skids and blocks........

There are many ways to build a shed. The OP wrote this:
"I really don't want to build a slab because I am planning
on storing stuff under the shed and hiding it with lattice
all the way around. It will be a good place to put certain
types of things."

Maybe you should set the OP straight and tell him why his ideas for
his design are BS and he should build your shed. Or not. Go with the
"or not".

A few observations:
- I did not recommend a slab. I replied to someone who thought the
slab would be a lot more money than a framed wood platform. Since I
won't be building the shed, and it's not my money or effort, I don't
really care which way the OP goes with the construction. I am simply
supplying advice and experience so the OP can evaluate the
alternatives.
- I did not forget the taxes and that stuff. John G. touched on the
topic and I added to it in a subsequent post.
- I do not know what the OP wants to store under the shed, or how high
off of the ground he wants to go, but I'll give the guy the benefit of
the doubt that after he's settled on a solution that it will work for
him.
- If you've followed this thread, you have seen how the OP started
with the 2x12s to (no doubt) minimize the number of piers. He has
shown flexibility on this. An admirable trait.
- Maine is not exactly rot central. You have that thing called winter
that slows it down a lot. Forgoing the PT joists would doom your shed
in short order in many parts of the country. In two years in New
Orleans, or other termite haven, your design would be infested.
- I am pleased that you built your design that you like. That process
is not unusual.

I do not mind criticism of my posts - I even had one that deserved it
- but it does no one any good when the criticism loses track of who
said what, and gives contrary advice that is specific only to a
certain situation or location.

R

Fair enough....

Posted by on April 29, 2009, 1:50 pm

I decided to do footings instead of a slab. I have got the four
corner footings done. I don't know if it's going to be cheaper or not
but I already know that this is a lot slower than pouring a slab. It
takes me about 45 minutes to dig a 20" deep (frost line here is 18")
by 20" diameter hole and haul half the dirt away to another spot on my
property where I need dirt. Then I pour concrete in the hole until
it's 20" below my line that I have strung between my batter boards.
I've got a piece of rebar in the middle that will stick up into the
hole in the center of the 8x8x8 CMUs. I will fill the CMUs with
concrete once the mortar between the blocks set. The tops of all four
foundations are level. This has worked pretty good but it does take a
bit of time to lay the block and make sure they're square and level.
It would have been much quicker if I would have just made a square
form but at least I'm doing something I've never done and am enjoying
being outside.

My foundations may be overkill for a shed but this bank is man made
and probably isn't as compact as I'd like so I'm hoping that these
footings are adequate and that the shed doesn't settle much.

I've posted pictures of the process to a public section on my flickr
site and I'll continue to post pictures until the shed's complete.
Feel free to watch what I'm doing and make any suggestions. Even if
it's too late to correct my mistake, a posting could help the next
person that wants to build a shed.

Here are the pictures:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jcarwile/sets/72157617110532689/

Thank you everyone for all the valuable input!

Jason

Posted by HerHusband on April 23, 2009, 2:06 pm

> How you get a slab being cheaper or faster beats me.

My shed is 8x12, and it has been a few years since I've bought
construction lumber, but here are some rough estimates for a wood floor
structure using approximate prices at the time:

$16 - (2) 2x6x12' joists (for rim joists) - $8 each
$50 - (10) 2x6x8' joists @16" OC - $5 each
$75 - (3) 4x8x3/4" CDX plywood sheets - $25 each

That's $141 just for the floor structure, probably more at todays prices,
and even more if you choose pressure treated lumber (good idea for a shed
close to the ground.

Then you have to support the floor somehow (again, just guessing on the
prices, as I haven't purchased lumber in a few years).

1. I used two 4x6x12 pressure treated "skids" sitting right on the
ground. These cost me about $15 each, or $30 total. It works, but
definitely not a long lasting option.

2. You could also use six "deck blocks". These cost about $5 each at the
time, or $30 total.

3. You could pour concrete footings ($4 a bag x 6 footings = $24),
install post bases ($5 each x 6 = $30), and install wood posts (one ten
foot post, about $10, could be cut into six small posts). Total, roughly
$64.

3. Even if you cheap out and just set the wood floor on concrete
"cinder" blocks, you're talking a couple of bucks each, or $12 for the
six blocks.

So, total cost for the floor and support structure would be between $150
and $200 or so, depending on local prices at the time. I didn't factor
nails or other needed fasteners, or the time and gas it takes to drive to
the store, pick up the supplies you need, and hopefully have some way to
haul them home.

My 4" thick 8x12 slab, on the other hand used 1.25 yards of concrete for
$150. About equal to the cheapest wood floor structure, but notably less
if you build a quality support for the shed. I already had boards to
build the forms, but even if you didn't you could reuse the form boards
in the shed construction. So no additional cost there.

As far as time, I erected the slab forms in less than an hour, and poured
the concrete in 30 minutes or so. Yes, you have to schedule and wait for
the concrete delivery, but that's no worse than having to go get the
materials for a wood floor.

Regardless, even if the slab ended up costing a bit more or took more
time to complete, it offers many advantages I listed in my previous
message.

> Tell us about how you jack hammered up the slab
> or do you just have a orphan slab in the middle
> of your yard now?

Most people don't move a shed once it is built, I was just pointing out
it was possible even with a slab.

In my case, I was renting a Bobcat anyway to do some landscaping work,
which made it easy to drag the shed to it's new location. I then broke up
the old slab by lifting it up from below with the Bobcat. I used the
broken slab pieces and many native rocks to fill in a low area that I
backfilled over for a parking area.

Anthony

Posted by blinkowski on April 20, 2009, 5:19 pm

> *Getting off topic, but have you considered the property tax ramification=

> of building a shed with permanent footings. =A0In my area of NJ that is
> considered an improvement and contributes to the tax base of the property=

> Everyone around here just lays out a gravel base and puts a shed with ski=

> on top.

Excellent point. An additional consideration are your local zoning
ordinances. A friend of mine who is building a large shed for a
workshop decided to pour a slab foundation. Because of the size, the
zoning regulations mandated drain tile be installed, along with a
gutter system for the roof. Hopefully your project won't be affected
like this, however it's worth checking out. If you get the chance,
check out my other tips on my <a href=3D"http://

www.storageshedplansblog.com">Storage Shed Plans</a> blog.

Posted by jloomis on April 15, 2009, 1:16 pm

I have another way also.
build your frame out of 12' x 12' joist. Temporarily stake it level.
Prior to that dig your holes and place the frame over them.
Level the frame, and stake it, fill the holes with concrete and use a post
or whatever to the frame. Use post bracket attachment and imbed the post in
the concrete and attach to the frame.......Let it set, and then take out the
temporary stakes......
voila.
just one way to do it.
Most just pour the concrete, and set pier blocks in the concrete. then
after the concrete is set, cut small posts to support the floor system so
that it is level. the posts are cut level, the piers are pored without
worrying about level.

Easier is pour a pad, 12 x 12 x4" thick/with footing, put anchor bolts in
it, and build the shed on that!
Oh, there are other ways too....
jloomis

> Hello,
> I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
> and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
> to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
> make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
> water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
> between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> with the others? What's the process that the pros use?
> Thanks in advance!
> Jason

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