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Footings for Shed jcarwile 04-15-2009
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Posted by RicodJour on April 15, 2009, 2:04 pm
> I have another way also.
> build your frame out of 12' x 12' joist. =A0Temporarily stake it level.
> Prior to that dig your holes and place the frame over them.
> Level the frame, and stake it, fill the holes with concrete and use a pos=
t
> or whatever to the frame. =A0Use post bracket attachment and imbed the po=
st in
> the concrete and attach to the frame.......Let it set, and then take out =
the
> temporary stakes......
> voila.
> just one way to do it.

The caveat there is that the 2x12 frame would weigh somewhere between
700 and 800 pounds. Not exactly something that a DIYer would "place"
easily, and it's not clear if the OP has help on hand.

Leveling the deck platform for smaller sheds and decks and then
pouring the concrete works well, but after a certain point working
around the holes and frame just takes more time and presents certain
risks. I doubt the OP will be operating at contractor speed, so
there's no great time lost by doing the foundation first.

R

Posted by jloomis on April 15, 2009, 2:26 pm
I would not do 2x12.
I would do 2x6 @ 2' centers
I would probably use 6 piers.......and double up the joist on the ends and
middle.
Anyway......simple box......pour a slab.......be done.
jloomis
> I have another way also.
> build your frame out of 12' x 12' joist. Temporarily stake it level.
> Prior to that dig your holes and place the frame over them.
> Level the frame, and stake it, fill the holes with concrete and use a post
> or whatever to the frame. Use post bracket attachment and imbed the post
> in
> the concrete and attach to the frame.......Let it set, and then take out
> the
> temporary stakes......
> voila.
> just one way to do it.

The caveat there is that the 2x12 frame would weigh somewhere between
700 and 800 pounds. Not exactly something that a DIYer would "place"
easily, and it's not clear if the OP has help on hand.

Leveling the deck platform for smaller sheds and decks and then
pouring the concrete works well, but after a certain point working
around the holes and frame just takes more time and presents certain
risks. I doubt the OP will be operating at contractor speed, so
there's no great time lost by doing the foundation first.

R



Posted by Dioclese on April 15, 2009, 8:53 pm
> Hello,
> I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. I've drawn the plans, elevations
> and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. I'm going
> to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> the holes to make a base for CMUs. The question I have is how do I
> make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> rest on them are nice and level? Do I use some sort of stake and
> water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> the same elevation? Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the mortar
> between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> with the others? What's the process that the pros use?
> Thanks in advance!
> Jason

So you want to go footing and CMUs and beam instead of pier and beam...

Dig the holes, throw in a chair in each hole. Pour the footings and piers
(sonobouy or 1X12 cedar form with rebar tied to the chair). Done.

How many footing/piers depends on the anticipated weight it has to support.
But that was left out for a negative reply from you or another respondent
anyway. I'll bow out here.
--
Dave



Posted by on April 16, 2009, 8:58 am
On Apr 15, 8:53=A0pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> > Hello,
> > I'm about to build a 12' x 12' shed. =A0I've drawn the plans, elevation=
s
> > and sections in AutoCAD and have every detail hammered out. =A0I'm goin=
g
> > to dig 4 holes for the footings and am planning on pouring concrete in
> > the holes to make a base for CMUs. =A0The question I have is how do I
> > make sure that once I've stacked and mortared the CMUs that the top of
> > them are all at the same elevation height so the floor joists that
> > rest on them are nice and level? =A0Do I use some sort of stake and
> > water level or laser level to make sure that each poured base is at
> > the same elevation? =A0Do I just fudge it in the thickness of the morta=
r
> > between the CMUs so that the last one on top of the stack is level
> > with the others? =A0What's the process that the pros use?
> > Thanks in advance!
> > Jason
> So you want to go footing and CMUs and beam instead of pier and beam...
> Dig the holes, throw in a chair in each hole. =A0Pour the footings and pi=
ers
> (sonobouy or 1X12 cedar form with rebar tied to the chair). =A0Done.
> How many footing/piers depends on the anticipated weight it has to suppor=
t.
> But that was left out for a negative reply =A0from you or another respond=
ent
> anyway. =A0I'll bow out here.
> --
> Dave- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the 'chair' that you're talking
about thowing into each hole?

I talked to the guy at the Project Desk at Lowe's last night and he
suggested that I just dig the hole and make a box shaped form out of
plywood and put that on top of the hole and pour the concrete into it
all. That way I have the square form above ground that will make a
nice corner and I don't have to worrry about making and removing a
form underground.

What do you guys think about that solution?

I am definitely considering more supports after reading everyone's
comments. Better safe than sorry anyways!

Posted by RicodJour on April 16, 2009, 9:43 am
On Apr 16, 8:58=A0am, jcarw...@gmail.com wrote:
> Sorry for my ignorance, but what's the 'chair' that you're talking
> about thowing into each hole?

A chair is a small platform, for lack of a better word, that supports
the rebar and keeps it encased in concrete to the depth required by
code. Otherwise the rebar rusts and loses its strength.

> I talked to the guy at the Project Desk at Lowe's last night and he
> suggested that I just dig the hole and make a box shaped form out of
> plywood and put that on top of the hole and pour the concrete into it
> all. =A0That way I have the square form above ground that will make a
> nice corner and I don't have to worrry about making and removing a
> form underground.
> What do you guys think about that solution?

There are many ways to do it, but you haven't addressed our questions
about your zoning and code situation. It's pointless to give advice
if it's prohibited construction.

BTW, big box stores are absolutely the last place you should be asking
for construction advice. They're notoriously bad and ill-informed.
You'd do far better to check out Fine Homebuilding's web site or The
Journal of Light Construction. Better yet, hie thee to a library and
peruse the home improvement aisle. It'll be time well spent.

R

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